USFA Rodeo II repair - which hand assembly (spring)?

MikeChandler · January 10, 2014, 05:43:40 PM

I have a recently acquired USFA Rodeo II, well it looked great, but I dry fired it a few hundred times with the cylinder removed, and the spring on the hand assembly broke off

Sheared, right next to the base of the hand. Can I replace the spring, or do I need the entire hand assembly?

Which parts do I use (colt 1st, 2nd, or 3rd gen)?

Is this a common malfunction or did I cause this by dry firing the gun with the cylinder removed?

Thanks

(a noob)

Major 2 · January 10, 2014, 07:27:18 PM

Actually Uberti hand

MikeChandler · January 10, 2014, 07:47:22 PM

The USFA Rodeo II is a Uberti?

Didn't know that. Thanks!

Major 2 · January 10, 2014, 08:10:08 PM

No not a Uberti its USFA...

but Uberti was imported as the early USFA's until about 2002 , parts will interchange.

Pettifogger · January 10, 2014, 08:41:35 PM

Why would you remove the cylinder to dry fire? The hammer is still smacking the frame just as hard. One thing that might have caused your problem is that when you remove the cylinder the hand sticks much further out of the frame every time you cock it than when the cylinder is in place. Sometimes this will even cause the hand to jam in the frame. Again, why on earth would you remove the cylinder to dry fire?

Abilene · January 10, 2014, 08:57:22 PM

You should be able to just use the Uberti spring. If you replace the entire hand it may require fitting to work properly.

GaryG · January 10, 2014, 09:17:49 PM

For some reason when a customer would call USFA and say their handspring broke, at least 80% + happened when they were dry firing (with the cylinder in). No one ever came up with a good explanation why so many were breaking during dry firing. Send me your address and I'll send you a USFA hand spring. Sometimes getting the old one out can be an issue so if you want a call after you get the new one send me your phone # also. The Rodeo II's were all US. the early Rodeos, Axxx and Bxxx, had Italian parts.
Gary

MikeChandler · January 11, 2014, 02:10:12 PM

Quote from: Pettifogger on January 10, 2014, 08:41:35 PM
Why would you remove the cylinder to dry fire? The hammer is still smacking the frame just as hard. One thing that might have caused your problem is that when you remove the cylinder the hand sticks much further out of the frame every time you cock it than when the cylinder is in place. Sometimes this will even cause the hand to jam in the frame. Again, why on earth would you remove the cylinder to dry fire?

Well, I thought removing the cylinder would put LESS wear and tear on the hand, as it seems to be the most delicate part of the design. I guess I was wrong!

I love the gun - it's a big step up in authentic feel from my wife's vaquero, though her gun has custom trigger work and springs and all, and it super easy to shoot. Still, it doesn't feel like a colt, and for some reason the USFA does. Internally of course the Rugers are nothing like the Colt's/Clones/USFA.

Quote from: GaryG on January 10, 2014, 09:17:49 PM
For some reason when a customer would call USFA and say their handspring broke, at least 80% + happened when they were dry firing (with the cylinder in). No one ever came up with a good explanation why so many were breaking during dry firing. Send me your address and I'll send you a USFA hand spring. Sometimes getting the old one out can be an issue so if you want a call after you get the new one send me your phone # also. The Rodeo II's were all US. the early Rodeos, Axxx and Bxxx, had Italian parts.
Gary

Thanks Gary! I emailed you directly.

My Rodeo II serial is S7xx, and it's in very good condition, but unfortunately there is some spotting on the nickel - perhaps it was made when they had the nickel plating issues? The bore is very sharp and deep so either it was fired only with good quality lead bullets and cleaned prodigiously, or it was shot very, very, little. I am guessing the latter. Anyway, I'd have to guess it's American made - it has no foreign markings on any parts.

I have the manual for the gun, but am missing a box and cloth. If anybody has either one for sale, please contact me. I'm also looking for custom ivory or stag grips, though I understand those may be next to impossible to get for the USFA.

Buckaroo Lou · January 11, 2014, 02:23:00 PM

Mike,

I broke a hand spring on one of my early USFA's and replaced just the spring myself. It wasn't that difficult. The most difficult will be opening and reclosing the groove the spring fits into on the hand. I am certain Gary will give you excellent instruction. Wish I had just some of his USFA knowledge.

Capt. John Fitzgerald · January 11, 2014, 03:44:54 PM

Mike,
For grips, try www.elenhunting.com. I got a set of stag grips from them a couple of years ago and they do excellent work. When I told them it was for a USFA they replied, "Oh, one of Doug Donnelly's guns," so obviously they were, and probably still are, familiar with USFA's. They only needed the grip frame (back strap & trigger guard) to make the grips. Turn around time was fairly quick as I recall.
CJF

Pettifogger · January 11, 2014, 06:41:10 PM

"Well, I thought removing the cylinder would put LESS wear and tear on the hand, as it seems to be the most delicate part of the design."

As you found out the hand is actually quite strong, the weak link is the hand spring. Removing the cylinder potentially puts more stress on the hand itself and the hammer will have a lot of over travel. The hand is what limits the hammer's rear movement. Take your revolver and then cock it. With your thumb on one side of the cylinder and a finger on the other twist the cylinder counterclockwise. Hold it firmly. Now put rearward pressure on the hammer. In most cases you will feel the hand pushing on the cylinder teeth. If you feel that push and want to limit potential hand wear, you need to put in an hammer over travel stop. Not hard to do. But, on the other hand, top competitors will dry fire a thousand times for every round of live ammo sent down range and most of their guns do not have over travel stops. If you really want to eliminate broken hand springs junk the leaf spring and replace it with a coil spring and plunger like on a Ruger. (In fact, most people use Ruger parts to do this mod.)

MikeChandler · January 26, 2014, 03:14:32 PM

I can see opening the groove for the spring is tough - it looks like it was driven closed with a pin. Is that normal?

Coffinmaker · January 26, 2014, 11:00:01 PM

Yes. It's called "staking") before you go attacking that spring slot with something pointy, get a block or something with a hole in it and clamp the hand with the spring slot over the hole. Drive the old spring out with a new spring then stake as needed.

Coffinmaker

PS: Forgot, go to VTI Gunparts and either get a new spewing or the whole hand and spring for a Uberti. A little fitting required.

MikeChandler · January 31, 2014, 08:50:19 PM

Done! Works as described. I clamped it in a vise, and just drove the new spring in and the old bottom out, using a light brass hammer. I've reassembled the revolver and it works.

Lesson learned: Do not fully cock a SAA without the cylinder in.

Thanks to Gary for the parts and to Coffin for the directions.