Getting started making holsters.

Massive · November 16, 2013, 12:46:49 AM

You need hand sewing needles, thread as per pattern, razor sharp knife. That is about it for now. Buy a bunch of needles, if you break them you are doing something wrong, but you probably will to start.

To finish you need neatsfoot oil, and maybe a bit of edge dressing. Some rusty water for black.

I have actually made a lot of stuff out of bellies, but quality has to be extraordinary. So you need to be able to go through a bunch. I would only buy them if they are super cheap, I am not sure half price is cheap enough. They are good for working on patterns, and making some holsters for yourself, or making certain lined models. i am pretty sure a holster lined with a belly is as stiff as a good hide lined with suede; or if lined with another belly compared to an unlined one; or lined with a top quality hide under the belly. So far all the hides I have lined the bellies with have been top quality lighter leathers, since I have never found a light belly. I have also somehow bought full priced quality hides that were worse than this best belly stuff I occasionally find. Also bellies are probably better quality than just about any exotics made out of birds or reptiles.

I would also say that bellies are used in a lot of leatherwork. For instance I bought a bag of belt blanks to make lined gunbelts out of, from tandy. These blanks are at least a 1/3rd bellies, you can see the chain pattern they sometimes have on them. In fact the chain pattern can be very attractive. Though each chain segment can also be a crack that fully penetrates the leather. This is why hand selection is best. But anyway, someone, obviously not working at the top of the quality pyramid is making craft show items out of those belt bags, and people are probably buying these belts and using them for a lifetime. There is no question they are second rate materials, but every square inch of hide is different and you are the person who decides what goes in and what goes out.

Also, you have to be careful about what people who produce in greater volume than you will be doing say about where they buy their leather. Volume requires the very highest quality of suppliers. I get most of my leather from a local Tandy, but I select each piece of it, and when my volume grows I will go elsewhere. I know some makers order stuff from Tandy, but I haven't seen the quality that would give me confidence to do that. I'm taking one hide in ten.

Here is a pretty good video on a lined holster done with hand tools:

Here is a Hermes master craftsman making one of their multi thousand dollar bags. Notice the euro method of holding the work, and how he holds the two needles in his hand all the time, and how he finds the down hole because he leave the awl in, etc...

Massive · November 16, 2013, 12:57:45 AM

TW, you asked about lining. There are various reasons:

- Make stronger and stiffer holsters that hold up better to constant use like competition.

- To make various aesthetic things possible like combining materials, say some stingray.

- To protect the gun from stuff like snaps or rivets that are on the outside but fasten on the inside of the leather

- To protect from the gun, stuff on the outside layer, like loops that are attached to the outside layer, and would wear out from contact with the gun.

- To place stuff in the middle of the two layers, like steel stiffeners, buried straps, site channels. Etc...

- Suede is no longer that popular, but it was regarded as a great material for linings, to hold the weapon better, and to protect the gun's finish (no longer regarded as true).

- To stop the gun from picking up crumbs of leather from the inside of the hide.

And so forth

texaswoodworker · November 17, 2013, 12:28:38 PM

Well, I've ordered most of the tools I need to get started (everything else I can get at hobby lobby), and a few books. It hopefully won't be long before I start working on my first holster.

Thank you all for your help.

texaswoodworker · January 06, 2014, 05:02:05 PM

Here's how the first one turned out.

(pic is not the best, it looks better in person)

Camano Ridge · January 06, 2014, 05:16:48 PM

Texaswoodworker, looks pretty good for your first one. I am sure you learned some lessons for the next one. Looking forward to seeing your next holster.

GunClick Rick · January 06, 2014, 07:44:38 PM

By golly,that's dang good for first time!!

Nice leather too!!

Marshal Will Wingam · January 06, 2014, 11:58:15 PM

That's the way to do it, pard. Nice holster. For a first one, too. Congrats.

Graveyard Jack · January 07, 2014, 11:33:10 AM

That's a great first effort!

St8LineLeatherSmith · January 09, 2014, 07:57:51 AM

for you beginning leatherworkers I am about to lay down the knowledge by the legends of holster making and leather work via my Google drive account
.https://drive.google.com/?usp=chrome_app#my-drive
I am sure you long time leathersmiths can get some ejumication from these files also

Camano Ridge · January 09, 2014, 09:04:37 AM

All I got when I opened link is a download of the google drive

St8LineLeatherSmith · January 09, 2014, 09:45:03 AM

GunClick Rick · January 09, 2014, 10:04:40 AM

Don't work for me Huckleberry~ $:-\$

Camano Ridge · January 09, 2014, 10:15:21 AM

Those links work. I appriciate you sharing the info, however you should check with the Marshal Willl or Ten wolves. Much of what you are distributing through downloads is copyrighted material. Many of the e books you have there are Tandy property and sold through there e library, The Calahan pattern was created and copyrighted by Jim Simmons (Brazos Jack) and is available for salethrough Tfriple K leather. Jim does occasionaly post patterns for people to use on Leatherworker.net . The eight bits patterns Roy has given permission to people to copy thoughs as his web site no longer exists and he created those patterns for people to us and never charged for those patterns.

St8LineLeatherSmith · January 09, 2014, 10:29:10 AM

I understand the copyright deal that is why I posted the links from my drive files and did not attach the files directly to the forum. the files are for read only they cannot be downloaded however if there are any problems with me posting the files I am sure the mods will delete the links or PM me asking that I remove them.
for now just enjoy reading.

Massive · January 09, 2014, 01:02:35 PM

They do download and format full size, if that is a problem for you. Last one is the Stohlman making holsters book. I just had a peak, and it automatically came out that way.

St8LineLeatherSmith · January 09, 2014, 03:48:21 PM

Thanks for the heads up, I will have to fix that.

Marshal Will Wingam · January 09, 2014, 07:36:17 PM

My computer quit working yesterday. I took it into the shop but all my logins were on it, including Google+. I'm using my backup computer which runs for an hour or so then bluescreens.

It'll probably be next week before I can see them. Thanks for posting the pics. I look forward to enjoying them.

texaswoodworker · January 09, 2014, 10:13:33 PM

Made another.

1911 Crossdraw holster. Fits the gun like a glove.

St8LineLeatherSmith · January 09, 2014, 11:45:54 PM

Texaswoodworker
your new found leatherworking skills are very good indeed

one little tip or trick that I can share with you is how to get your edges slick as owl poop
first take some 150 grit sand paper and sand the edges flat to even out both edges (I use a drill press with sanding drums works best and fast) then use a #2 edge beveling tool and go around the front and back edges to remove the excess build up from sanding.
Now use a spray bottle with water and squirt the edges till the edge is damp now you can use a the flat part of bone creaser or edge slicker you burnish the edges until smoothe.
(I also use the drill press with a round slicker to burnish the edges best and fastest method I have found)
the drill press with a thin round awl blade on low speed is also excellent tool to place your stitching holes, this method is good for holsters with a thick welt due to it is very hard to pass an awl through thick welts. once all the holes are made I will use my stitching awl to make the proper stitching holes for a clean saddle stitch.
I also like to use a double loop lace and Mexican round braid to join the holster together at the seam which is a diffrent hole prep procedure all together.
Clear as mud

I also notice you like the unfinished look to your leather, if you go to wal mart you can get a quart of Minwax clear polycrylic
Darn near the same thing as the Tandy eco flo super shene leather finish just wipe some on with a sponge applicator and let dry this will protect the leather and provides some UV protection to keep your holster from tanning in the light

also log on youtube and type in Nigel Armatige in the search barhis saddle stitching tutorials are awesome for learning the proper procedures for saddle stitch youtube has a lot of good instructional videos for basic to advanced leatherworking techniques
Hope this might be helpful

Massive · January 10, 2014, 07:56:30 AM

Yeah, that milky clear stuff has a lot of applications from concrete bonder, to thread colour preserver on rods, to leather finish, varnish. I just need a single source!