1880-1890, Acceptably Authentic Boots

[Shotgun Franklin]

Who sells or what brands of boots are most like those worn during that period?
I don't demand the exact same thread count and the inner sole doesn't have to be period, I want'm to look right.

[James Hunt]

No one has taken a shot at your question yet - so although no expert I'll take a stab. Those who study this stuff may wish to weigh in if I err.

You don't specify what the boot is intended for, and I will presume you mean a boot as we have come to understand it for the period, not a brogan or other type of lace up boot. So the question is would this be for a farmer/workman or cowboy. By the era you describe cowboy's had somewhat of a boot that was unique and referred to as such. If it is the former then you would be still looking at a common boot not unlike the military had worn from before the civil war, they changed little. A low heel stove pipe type boot of 10 to 14 inches - maybe taller, particularly if you are trying to look cool in the 21st century at an event. Such boots are available from Missouri Boot and Shoe for a reasonable price. And as discussed elsewhere recently they have an excellent product.

If you are talking about a cowboy boot, it evolved from the 1870's on thru current times. A good overview with lots of pictures can be found in the coffee table book "Cowboys: The Trappings of the Old West" by Mann and Flood. Well worth the money if you are into the cowboy stuff. A more detailed discussion can be found in the "Cowboy at Work" by Ward. That book is an absolute necessity if you into cowboying at the turn of the century, tons of great info.

Looking thru those sources, by the 1880's there was a distinct boot type called a cowboy boot that was very desirable - see Teddy Blue Abbot's comments in his book. Sometime during the 1880's you began to see more boots with the separate front bottom quarter and what I'd call a tongue extending upward - not unlike modern cowboy boots. The boots became more decorative, with stitching in the tops. Height could vary. Square toed boots were common, but you begin to see more round toe boots - American cowboys wearing pointy toe stuff doesn't show up until well into the 20th century.

One maker of period looking cowboy boots that I have heard good things about is Brian Allison. His stuff looks good on his webiste, my only beef is I think he pegs his soles and I believe that by the era you describe most soles were sewn. But that may be a small  point.

http://www.snowcreekboots.com/

Absolutely correct looking boots, in my opinion, for the era prior to 1875 are best served by custom boot makers. But for a cowboy boot from say 1885 on you may be satisfied with off the shelf suppliers if you select carefully. First, find an image of a boot you like with a known date - the sources above are good - and then try and match it to what you see. The soles should be all leather. Hopefully you can live with the fact that these 20th century boots have the heel set ahead of the side seam, to be set at or behind the side seam was a mark of period makers. Also some boots of the 1890's and the silent movie era that you may admire tended to have very under slung heels, something that is hard to find by a period correct maker. These under slung heels are somewhat similar to modern buckaroo boots. If you find boots with the underslung heel make sure you don't get a pair with that stupid, useless "spur shelf". There are some off the shelf boots that claim to be authentic that have that feature, all is not lost, if you like the boot take it to a shoe repair guy, and have him grind that sucker off keeping the general contour of the heel.

Below is a pair of off the shelf boots I got, with leather soles they really work well for my 1890 cowboy persona. Probably less than $150. They have been used for over a decade in cowboy mounted shooting and as you see have held up well. Ignore the horsehead spurs, they are turn of the century, but put a set of OK spurs or period north and judds on them and no one is going to say you are less than authentic.



Hope that helps.

Amended: Woops, blame photobucket for that one, I don't know what happened but you get the idea.

[Shotgun Franklin]

Thanks, this pretty much agrees with what I believe. I have 3 problems with most boots, I'm 320 so boots tend not to last, I wear my boots at work where they get a lot of 'walking' and I'm 6'8" and like a tall top.

[James Hunt]

Shotgun Franklin: Wow, haven't I seen you on fall Sunday's beating the crap out of some defensive lineman? It must be tough buying off the shelf anything including boots. You must ride BIG horses! Regards, Jim

[Shotgun Franklin]

Jim: I never cared much for sports played with a ball. I ride Draft Horses, my current is Alice. Alice is about 16.2 and weights about 1500 lbs. I can find pants but have my shirts made locally.

[James Hunt]

Shotgun Franklin: Very neat, I've never ridden one but I love seeing those large animals. I know of several who have used them in mounted shooting, SLOW on the turns but very calm with gunfire. I have seen them in jousting also, very impressive. Good for you! Good luck on the boots. Regards, Jim

My pony and I - check out those off the shelf "authentic" boots.

[Shotgun Franklin]

Jim, who makes the boots you're wearing?

[James Hunt]

Shotgun Franklin: Years ago I had to drive from MI to Huntsville, AL about four times a year. In doing so I used to drive past a place called Tonto Rim in Seymour IN and I always stopped there to take a break.  It was a basic SASS type store, lots of Wahnamaker and off the shelf stuff. At the time he had quite the hat and boot selection. That is where I purchased those boots, I have no idea if the place still sells them or who he had make them. I believe they still have a web site. It has been close to a decade since I have been there. But the boots were of good quality. Actually the hat I am wearing in the above picture was also from that store. Hope that helps. Regards, Jim

[WaddWatsonEllis]

Hi,

Fort Western is having a sale of their boots. They are to be getting new colors/designs in the Spring ... so if you have a little bit different shoe size ... (they are out of size 12s ...which is my size) , I believe that they are less than $100.00:

http://www.fortwestern.com/fort-frontier-mens-nebraskan-mule-ear-shooter-boots/p/408398/

TTFN,

[WaddWatsonEllis]

P.S.,

I meant to say that these boots were designed for SASS shooting ... and I have worn mine all day ... even danced in them ... with spurs on!

LOL

TTFN

[Shotgun Franklin]

I bought form Fort Western before but they are out of size 13 right now.

[WaddWatsonEllis]

Sigh,


Same with me .... they are out of 12s ...

Oh well ... I just have to hope that the replacement boot is both comfortable and PC for the 1850s ...

TTFN,

[Major 2]

suhhhhhhhhh

If the Media, gets hold of the fact there a shortage of sizes 12 & 13 , their natural knee jerk reaction ...

BIGFOOT has taken up Western Action Shooting, and therefore " PRO GUN"
and the will be YETI another round of Big hairy , assault weapon toting extremist reported 

[Slim-Jim Davis]

Ok iv asked around and found that thes buckaroo boots will work for sass but iv ben told to ask here for historical athunticity of buck aroo boots from sheplers so can any one help oh and my persona slim jim is a renigade law man in 1881 the second photo is of the actual boots

[WaddWatsonEllis]

Hi,

Besides the color, the bane of all boot makers/boot buyers is the keystone/tongue ...

Roughly from the Civil War Era (or the War of the Northern Aggression to some) the part part if the shaft and the entire toe were tortured out of one piece. When one was producing ten thousand boot it was cheaper that way.

Later, when Wellington's (as in Arthur Wellesley) keyholes were reinvented, and cowboy boots were being made on a semi-custom basis, and it made the keyhole assembly possible.

I bought pair of of square toes and round toes for my 1850 reenacting (in retrospect I should have bought  two square toes).

I bought (and made) the pattern of Will Ghormeley's buckleless spur straps. That way they cover the 'Keyhole' and make it look 'period'.

[IMG]

[MJN77]

Roughly from the Civil War Era (or the War of the Northern Aggression to some) the part part if the shaft and the entire toe were tortured out of one piece.

Certainly in most cases, but not all. Even during (and before) the Civil War, some boots were made with two piece fronts. I would imagine that some were made that way after the war as well. Look at the second link. One piece fronts were much, much more common though.
http://www.mainememory.net/artifact/34464
http://www.icollector.com/Post-Civil-War-Officer-s-Square-toed-Boots_i6969452
http://www.icollector.com/Civil-War-Era-Calvary-Boots-Ca-1860_i36342

[Slim-Jim Davis]

But as for a coustm desind boo will the key stone toung fit in the early 1880s through the 1890s
If not could u recomend a boot with the same basic high stly leg I'm quit partle to the over all look
Woyuld thes ones be more aproprate for the time period
Jim Davis oh and can some one show me what they mean by toe stiching I saw it was mentond in the NCOWS hand book for footware cus that confuses me

[Major 2]

Jim

I might suggest you contact Fugawee Boot & Shoe  http://www.fugawee.com/Stove%20Pipes.htm

" ...can some one show me what they mean by toe stiching I saw it was mentond in the NCOWS hand book for footware cus that confuses me"

I have no hard copy as to when this fad became popular ( I'd think by the Mid-1940 to 1950's ) with silver screen B western stars.

But it is unacceptable in NCOWS  ( though I believe very fashionable and most acceptable with B Western SASS type )

[Slim-Jim Davis]

Well prad I think I might just give up on finding historicly acurat buckaroo boots but my pocket is shalow and I prefer to see moste of what I buy in person if I am capible du to the fact iv ordered a ves and it looked nuthing like what I saw on the online catoloug and I know where a cavnders an sheplers ar in my areia can any one tell me what too look for as iv sead befor if u have a pic show me so I don't have to resort ot going online

Thank you Slim Jim-Davis

An do end a pic of some good ole boys

[Oregon Bill]

Them boys best not let the schoolteacher catch them with terback ...