Most authentic boots, 1860-70

[Oregon Bill]

I'm wondering if the Missouri Boot and Shoe offerings can be excelled for the price. If you have a pair, how do they look and fit?

[St. George]

Ask this over at 'The Barracks' - the seem to buy a lot of boots and shoes from them.

Scouts Out!

[harleydavis]

In the Civil War world, Missouri Boot & Shoe are considered one of the premium bootmakers in the hobby. YOu will provide them with detailed measurements and outline tracing of your foot. They are truly custom made for your feet. Price for the quality, authenticity you get from MBS cannot be matched. There are a couple other Civil War boot makers (Robert Land, CD Jarnagin to name a couple), pricing is similar as is the quality. Most of the other makers only offer the Civil War "brogans" so if you are after a taller Cavalry style boot, MS&B is about the only choice out there. IMHO, the MB&S custom fit puts them at the top of the heap. They fit like a glove from day one and with proper care, will last you many many years. For a shorter boot (so called "artillery boot") and a bit less money, Fugawee offers a decent product, not of the quality of the "progressive" makers however.

[Oregon Bill]

St, George, Harley, thank you both for the replies. Sounds like I cannot go wrong with Missouri Boot and Shoe. I am looking for boots that would fit in with the early buffalo hide-hunting era up to about 1876.

[harleydavis]

MB&S makes a 12" pull-on boot that is exact replica of an 1860's-70's boot. You would be hard pressed to find a more authentic boot. I would not be afraid to purchase the Fugawee Artillery or Stovepipe boot by the way (I have boots from both makers), they are $50-$100 less than MS&B. However, I think the Missouri Boot & Shoe product will last longer and certainly, is a better fit on my feet.

[Oregon Bill]

Harley, I have a pair of Jefferson bootees from Fugawee and they fit me pretty well. But I think I will save up for a pair of boots from Missouri.  I have pretty gnarly feet, so excellent fit is "muy importante," if'n you get my drift. Plus I'd just like to to business with an outfit that takes such pains to get it right.

[Blair]

Military surplus would have been much less expensive during this time period for this type of occupation.
Footwear from the civilian sector would also have varied quite a bit from what the Military might have to offer in the same time period.

The options suggested so far are excellent choices!

However, I would suggest you explore what these options may be, before you make your choice.
1. Are you the Shooter? (upper class) Or the Skinner? (lower class)
2. What part of the Country are you working out of, or from?

Just a few thoughts or ideas regarding historical authenticity.
My best,
Blair
 

[Oregon Bill]

Oh, sure, Blair, bring a practiced historians's eye to the matter!



Actually, I haven't thought it through. Here are elements of possible scenarios based on my very real ancestors: Great-grandfather on dad's side comes home from the Civil War, having served in the Third Wisconsin Cavalry. Seeking to put the war behind him, he marries about 1868, buys a farm, and he and his wife have a child. Fever carries his wife and child away, and he is left brokenhearted, looking for a new beginning away from these memories. He knows how to handle a rifle, can ride like the devil and can make saddles, harness and tack if need be. But he is an entrepreneur at heart. This is all based on fact. The make-believe is that he sees a chance to make some money to the south, in the Indian Nations he helped patrol in the war, and where there are whispers that there might be a living to be had hunting the buffaloes.
Great-great grandfather on mom's side pulls up stakes in Santa Clara, California, about 1870 and inexplicably takes his family by wagon train EAST across the desert and skirting the Llano Estacado Comanche country to settle in Buffalo Gap, Texas. There, my great-grandmother eventually meets an enterprising school teacher holding class under a brush arbor, with a buffalo rifle nearby, and they eventually marry. He takes on outside work to add to their means -- including some hide work -- and while they move around the region to Abilene, Roby, Sweetwater, eventually they land in the Panhandle, buying a ranch on the Canadian River just a mile or so upstream from a fellow named William Dixon's ranch, and the site of Adobe Walls. This is all true.
Lots for me to ponder ...

[Blair]

O Bill,

The title of your post lead me to believe you wanted "authentic" input to your quest.
Please disregard any suggestions I may have offered
Blair

[James Hunt]

Oregon Bill; Best to look at "historical" images

Buffalo Hunters circa 1872



Hunter on left has a pair of boots made by MB&S


Below "famous Scout" circa 1874
Note he is wearing a pair of boots made by Robert Land


Thought you'd like to see what they looked  like. Very happy with my Robert Lands

[Oregon Bill]

James, I tip my hat to you sir. Wonderful outfits and photos -- and the top image even reversed! I'm leaning toward the Missouri product; I had a pair of Land Hi-Lows for an earlier period, and while very well made, they didn't fit my feet so well.
May I ask the details on your trousers in the top photo? Source? Fabric?

[James Hunt]

Oregon Bill: Thanks for the kind words on the images, they are scanned wet plate photographs. If you mean the pants I am wearing in the buffalo hunters -  they are just standard hand sewn wool pants. If you mean the "scout" image, that is hand sewn brain tan, made by me. Agree, MB&S have a great reputation and a fine product. I live near Robert Land and his delivery of an item has been faster.

Regards, Jim

[Oregon Bill]

H-h-h-h-hand s-s-s-s-ewn?
Awe, geez, another re-enactor with useful skills. Wish I had some.

Can I ask the nature of the wool used, and the pattern?

[James Hunt]

The wool pants were not made by me, rather by a woman who used to sew for the CW crowd. I can't remember her name, she was from S. Carolina I think. That was a while ago, can't really comment on the wool. To my untrained eye wool is wool, it is sort of a medium weight wool.

The hide pants were made by me. I did not purchase a pattern, rather I copied a pair I saw in one of Hanson's Mountain Man sketch books that had been worn by a military officer serving in the west. I took a pair of Wranglers that fit me and used them as a pattern to make a pair of pants out of some cheap cotton. I did raise the waist line about 4 - 6 inches. Once I confirmed they fit me, I then took them apart and used them as a pattern. The hide pants are sewn with linen thread. I have no idea how to sew with a machine, even though I own a late 19th century sewing machine so hand sewing was my only option, and "their" only option back in 1840. They have held up well, even on horseback - nothing destroys your clothes, excuse me, adds authenticity, like wearing your stuff on and around horses. I think that making that first cut into a brain tanned hide might have been one of the most frightening things I have ever done. 

[Oregon Bill]

Much obliged Jim. I know what you mean about cutting into a nice braintanned hide. ...

[Pitspitr]

I've worn my MB&S M-1872 shoes for right at 20 years. I sent them back once to have them re-soled and re-healed. I've had my MB&S M-1876 boots for right at 10 years. Both are the most comfortable shoes/boots I've ever worn and they wear like iron. They've been worth every penny.

[1961MJS]

I've worn my MB&S M-1872 shoes for right at 20 years. I sent them back once to have them re-soled and re-healed. I've had my MB&S M-1876 boots for right at 10 years. Both are the most comfortable shoes/boots I've ever worn and they wear like iron. They've been worth every penny.

Hi

I'm ordering sometime soon.  I think I can successfully measure my foot, but I'm concerned about the space for the pants to go inside the boots.  What's the difference in diameter between your calf and your boots?  I HOPE that's a good way to tell the difference.  I think I'll get some taller Civil war era boots, but haven't really decided yet.  I also haven't decided on an exact persona yet anyway. 

Later

[Pitspitr]

I'm ordering sometime soon.  I think I can successfully measure my foot, but I'm concerned about the space for the pants to go inside the boots.  What's the difference in diameter between your calf and your boots? 

If you follow their directions for measuring, I'm quite certain you can successfully measure your feet. Again, if you follow their directions measuring your calves you won't have any problem with the tops being too tight to go over your pant legs.

http://www.missouribootandshoe.com/

There is a "How to Measure Your Feet " link toward the bottom of the page.

[Blair]

Just a couple of suggestions...
When measuring/tracing your foot... wear "heavy" socks, and be sure you are standing up right with your full weight on each tracing. (This means you will need to have someone do the tracing for you.)
When measuring your calf, wear the trousers and heavy socks you will most often be wearing, and measure over the trousers/socks. If you plan on wearing wool trousers like Kersey, (and/or perhaps long johns?)... add "at" least 1 inch to the calf size. (It is better to have the calf of the boot a bit too large than too small!)
My best,
Blair

[Oregon Bill]

Guys, thanks for the measuring clues. I just ordered a Confederate/civilian trouser kit of jean on cassimere from Wambaugh and White and will need to be able to tuck the legs into my boots.