Picked my OT's up!

John William McCandles · August 11, 2013, 07:01:36 AM

Well I picked my '72 Open Tops up from my FFL holder yesterday. Overall I am satisfied with them as they are used and originally sold and tuned by Bob Taylor. How long ago was that? They have since been gone though by someone else I'd never heard of. I will see how they shoot at our monthly NCOWS match next Saturday.
The actions are very smooth. I am hoping they will pop CCI primers which is what I primarily use when reloading. When I took them down to lube for black powder I noticed that the barrel to cylinder gap has not been permanently set on either and one has an extra shim placed behind the wedge (?). The gap is .010". After I see how they shoot in this configuration I'll be setting the cylinder gap and installing the coil pawl spring mods.

Regards
JW

John William McCandles · August 20, 2013, 06:49:08 PM

I shot my '71 OT's Saturday at the JCR match, and they shot very well. Tonight I torn them down for cleaning and a look see, also to put the buttons in the arbor to set the cylinder gap. I noticed that a screw had been installed in the grip frame between the frame and the main spring (these have reduced power mainsprings of an unknown source) under the hammer, any ideas as to a reason? Should they be left?

Thanks
JW

Pettifogger · August 20, 2013, 07:21:52 PM

If I am understanding correctly, if the screw is in the top of the trigger guard under where the hammer roller pushes the mainspring down, it is a hammer over travel screw. A lot of people put them in when they tune the guns.

Abilene · August 20, 2013, 11:28:38 PM

Howdy J.W.
Bob Taylor passed away in May '03. He knew how to make them purr. Hope you enjoy them. You can probably find their age by the proofmarks or just call Cimarron with the serial numbers and ask for Val.

Fox Creek Kid · August 21, 2013, 01:08:12 AM

Good Lord, has it been 10 yrs.? Man, times flies.

Abilene, has anyone ever heard anything from ol' Harvey Lane? I always liked him.

John William McCandles · August 21, 2013, 03:59:54 AM

Quote from: Pettifogger on August 20, 2013, 07:21:52 PM
If I am understanding correctly, if the screw is in the top of the trigger guard under where the hammer roller pushes the mainspring down, it is a hammer over travel screw. A lot of people put them in when they tune the guns.

Yes, that's is it. So they do serve a purpose and I'll leave them be.

Thanks
JW

John William McCandles · August 21, 2013, 04:05:41 AM

Quote from: Abilene on August 20, 2013, 11:28:38 PM
Howdy J.W.
Bob Taylor passed away in May '03. He knew how to make them purr. Hope you enjoy them. You can probably find their age by the proofmarks or just call Cimarron with the serial numbers and ask for Val.

I bought my first pair of 1860 R&M conversions from Bob, he timed those but did not do a complete action job on them. I still have them.
Should I go a head with installing the buttons to set arbor seating or leave that be? My only concern is the extra shim installed with the wedge on the one. I believe this is to help set the cylinder gap.

JW

Abilene · August 21, 2013, 11:22:03 AM

Quote from: Fox Creek Kid on August 21, 2013, 01:08:12 AM
Good Lord, has it been 10 yrs.? Man, times flies.

Abilene, has anyone ever heard anything from ol' Harvey Lane? I always liked him.

Harvey and his son shot with us at the Tejas Caballeros some years ago, but "I heard" that his son got into socker and I haven't seen Harvey in quite a while. I think he lived in San Antonio so might be shooting down there?

Coffinmaker · August 21, 2013, 01:51:07 PM

J W,
Fixing the Arbor/Barrel fit is the absolute FIRST thing that should be done for an Open Top. If you have a problem with the wedge, a new one isn't that expensive, so yes, fix the arbor fit. Without a solid Barrel/Arbor fit, you can't really do anything with barrel/cylinder gap nor end shake. Every time you put it together those dimensions will change.
Once properly set up, Open Tops are a joy to play with.

Coffinmaker

John William McCandles · September 21, 2013, 07:23:28 AM

I've set the arbor/barrel fit and one of these pistols came out fine with only having to fit a new stock Uberti wedge, the other I had to set the barrel assy. back to get the proper gap and I will need to either solder a shim to and fit the old wedge or make a new one, which I am attempting my first attempt I used the wrong taper when I cut it (found a procedure on another forum which turned out to be for a '51/'61 Navy) I have since figured the correct taper and will cut another. A question I have is what can be used to cut the retaining screw slot in the top of the wedge? A woodruff key slot cutter?

On another point does anyone have the ability and means that would Tig weld the sight groove closed on a 1860 R&M hammer? I have a couple that I'd like welded closed so I can re cut the sight.

Thanks
JW

Pettifogger · September 21, 2013, 12:15:23 PM

I recut lots of open top hammers. Never have welded up the old slot, just cut right through it.

John William McCandles · September 21, 2013, 06:19:43 PM

Since I've already drilled the arbor for the Dillion button and won't need to use one for setting the cylinder gap, could I tap the hole and put a set screw in to force the wedge back instead of using an oversized wedge or a shim?

JW

Pettifogger · September 21, 2013, 07:50:34 PM

It's worth a try. Most set screws are cup pointed. I would take a stone and smooth out the sharp edge around the cup. Other than that tap it and try it.