Slix Shot nipples and a Wolff reduced power main spring in an 1851 Navy

[Bottom Dealin Mike]

One of the claimed benefits of using Slix Shot nipples is the ability to use a lighter main spring because the back pressure of the charge firing is diffused by the side vents on the nipple. So, after outfitting an 1851 Navy with a set of Slix Shots, I equipped it with a Wolff reduced power main spring to put the theory to the test.

[Noz]

The Slix shot nipples in Pietta 1860 Armys work quite well with the Brownells sold reduced power 1873 main springs.

[Paladin UK]

Another good informative  video BDM 

I really like the fact that your not afraid to... `Show it as it is`

Paladin (What luvs his opentops ) UK

[sail32]

Very nice viedo.

The Slix-Shot nipples seem to be updated TCA Hot Shot nipples.
Considering the discussion in the post; http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php/topic,35696.0.html

Has any one done a comparison of Treso, Slix-Shot, and the TCA Hot Shot Nipples ?

I will be using the nipples on a Uberti 1860 Army and on trail walks. I expect to use a heavy powder load and 200 grain conical bullets so the concept of light springs is not considered.

[Bottom Dealin Mike]

Since I have gotten some flack that I am trashing Slix Shot nipples. let me assure you all that that's not the case.

I said from the 9 minute, 30 second point in the video.

"Now the Slix Shot nipples did fine. There was no cap sucking. The hammer did not blow back. It's just that the Wolff mainspring, which is very, very light, was insufficient to set off the caps."

I don't think that is trashing Slix at all.

Perhaps a medium weight spring would have set the caps off, but that's not what I was testing. I wanted to try the lightest spring. Several other shooters have had exactly the same results with the Wolff springs in Colt style cap & ball revolvers.

[Pony Racer]

My Gunsmith says the one thing he warns shooters about when slicking up cap and ball guns is not lightening the main spring or not lightening it that much.  You need some "oomph" to get that cap to go off.

He slicked up my cap and ball guns, Rogers and Spencers, but left that spring alone, course I am not a speed demon, nor ever try to be, but my caps always seem to go off.

You ever thought of doing a video of the Rogers and Spencers?  A fellow cowboy shooter we both know would be willing to loan you one for the video:)!

PR

[Lefty Dude]

I believe the later models of Ubert & Pietta C&B Revolvers have a more consistant factory spring than the models of several years ago. I have one 1851 Pietta new and out of the box, the main Hammer spring was so strong I had trouble pulling the Hammer back with both hands.
Also Pietta has changed the trigger & bolt spring to a lighter spring.
I prefer the flat factory B&H spring to the wire springs. I was running Wire springs in my 1851's, did not like the feel and changed them back to the factory flat springs.

To each his own. And what ever works for ya.

[Coffinmaker]

Let me first put fourth the caveat. I PERSONALLY don't like Wolff springs.  Had a bad experience with them some time back and have had no reason to change my mind.  Now
I have had very good luck with Lee's Gunsmithing Gunfighter springs and VTI Gunparts reduced Main Springs in Pietta guns.  I can't speak for Uberti .  As long as the caps were firmly seated on the cones, ignition has been 100% reliable.  In the past, Cap guns that came into the shop did not receive reduced springs.  Just a good basic rubbin n buffin.  I have not liked Uberti offerings as the Arbor has always been too short and the Arbor/Barrel fit a RPIA to fix.  Arbor fit on Pietta guns has been uniformly correct.  Having the barrel/cylinder gap constantly variable can also affect ignition.  There is an easy & cheap fix for 90% of Uberti Arbors.
My personal sets of Pietta guns still suck caps with both Slix And Treso cones and will go to Lee's Gunsmithing for Cap Guards.

Coffinmaker

[hellgate]

I noticed the Slix nipples had a fairly steep taper. Were you able to seat the caps all the way down onto the top of the nipple or just until snug? I have found with the harder CCI or RWS caps that unless I have them really pushed down hard I might have to do a second hammer strike since the first strike has finally seated the cap onto contact with the top of the nipple and the second one crushes it against the nipple. The Remington caps are usually thinner walled and seem to be "pre-split" and flare nicely as they are seated to fit a larger variety of nipple shapes and sizes. I'm thinking that either the caps weren't fully seated (usually not the case with Remington brand) or that mainspring is waaaay too light.

[sail32]

Has anyone noticed a change in velocity or cleaner burning when using Slix-Shot nipples as compared to regular nipples ?

Coffinmaker, what is the cheap and easy fix for 90% of Uberti arbors you mentioned as I have a Uberti 1860 Army on the way ?

[Lefty Dude]

Has anyone noticed a change in velocity or cleaner burning when using Slix-Shot nipples as compared to regular nipples ?

Coffinmaker, what is the cheap and easy fix for 90% of Uberti arbors you mentioned as I have a Uberti 1860 Army on the way ?

For the Arbor issue I would use a custom fit to size washer at the arbor port bottom. This will take some trial fitting to get it right. Or epoxy a washer on the end of the Arbor.

[Coffinmaker]

Sail 32,
Drop by your local Lowe's or Ace or what ever and buy some 5mm stainless split washers.  Drop one down the arbor bore in the barrel and stick it all together.  Remember it's there when you take it apart.  The barrel will register to the same depth every time you seat the wedge.
Simple but works

Coffinmaker

[sail32]

 Hi Coffinmaker & Lefty Dude,
Thank you.
sail32

[Noz]

Has anyone noticed a change in velocity or cleaner burning when using Slix-Shot nipples as compared to regular nipples ?

Coffinmaker, what is the cheap and easy fix for 90% of Uberti arbors you mentioned as I have a Uberti 1860 Army on the way ?

Much cleaner

[sail32]

Hi Noz,
Thanks.
On another site there was discussion that the holes in the Slix-Shot nipples acted similar to a venture tube, adding extra oxygen and produced a hotter ignition flame.
A higher temperature should be cleaner burning.

[Coffinmaker]

Quite possible.  If one views the cones as a little bitty rocket, the burn chamber is the section directly under the cap and the Venturi or nozzle is the hole going into the chamber.  Adding oxygen to the burn chamber will increase the burn temperature which will increase the flame travel, which will increase the thrust, which will increase the back pressure.  HOWEVER ....
The combustion chamber of our little rocket reaches maximum chamber pressure in a nano second and then blows OUT the little holes in the side of the Slix.  So, the theory that the little holes add oxygen to the little rocket motor's burn .... Doesn't quite wash, er, thrust.  HOWEVER ...
Slix do work better than factory cones.

Coffinmaker

[Navy Six]

One of the claimed benefits of using Slix Shot nipples is the ability to use a lighter main spring because the back pressure of the charge firing is diffused by the side vents on the nipple. So, after outfitting an 1851 Navy with a set of Slix Shots, I equipped it with a Wolff reduced power main spring to put the theory to the test.

[Coffinmaker]

[Lefty Dude]

You can not run a 1851 with a Wolff reduced main spring & slix cones.. The 1860's & 51 44 caliber you can. My opinion is the difference is back pressure caused by the size of the bore. Smaller bore, more back pressure. Larger bore less back pressure.

Even with the Wolff spring & slix cones my 1860 will sometimes pop a cap. I replaced my 1860 Wolff springs with a reduced spring that Cimarron sells. The Cimarron spring is kinda in between a stock Pietta & a Wolff.
As a test I installed a Wolff on one 1860, and a Cimarron on the other. The Cimarron test piece held all the caps on the cones 95% of the time in a 30 shot six stage match. The Wolff test piece, 50 % held on the cones out of 30 shots and one made it to the action and locked the piece.
All of my C&B Revolvers have Cimarron's reduced main spring.
A Shooting Pard shoots Colt 2nd Gen 51's, he tried reduced springs with slix cones. Same issue as above with my 60's, only he runs stock spring in his Colts now.
51's require more power on the Main spring than 60's, according to my test results.

[Fingers McGee]

You can not run a 1851 with a Wolff reduced main spring & slix cones.. The 1860's & 51 44 caliber you can. My opinion is the difference is back pressure caused by the size of the bore. Smaller bore, more back pressure. Larger bore less back pressure.

Even with the Wolff spring & slix cones my 1860 will sometimes pop a cap. I replaced my 1860 Wolff springs with a reduced spring that Cimarron sells. The Cimarron spring is kinda in between a stock Pietta & a Wolff.
As a test I installed a Wolff on one 1860, and a Cimarron on the other. The Cimarron test piece held all the caps on the cones 95% of the time in a 30 shot six stage match. The Wolff test piece, 50 % held on the cones out of 30 shots and one made it to the action and locked the piece.
All of my C&B Revolvers have Cimarron's reduced main spring.
A Shooting Pard shoots Colt 2nd Gen 51's, he tried reduced springs with slix cones. Same issue as above with my 60's, only he runs stock spring in his Colts now.
51's require more power on the Main spring than 60's, according to my test results.

This has been my experience with Wolfe springs also.  Would like to try the Cimarrons.  Who can I order the Cimarron reduced power sprigs from?  Can't find them on their website