The mysterious button below the placket...

[Octagonal Barrel]

As I have become more interested in the historical clothing side of CAS, I've noticed a lot of "reproduction" shirts have a placket with 4 (or so) buttons, and the placket is sewn closed at the bottom.  Some shirts (Wahmaker Tombstone or Gambler being two examples) have a flap at the bottom of the placket below where the placket is sewn closed, with a final button holding the flap down.  It looks to me like this shows up more on shirts with inset bibs.

First, does anyone know if that's actually historical?  Were there some shirts with the flap and button below the placket?

Second, if so (and this is where the question is really going), does anyone know the function of the flap?  I've seen at least one shirt with a flap below the placket, a "button" hole, and no button.  Could it be there was some use for a stud rather than a button there?


Just curious, as for the life of me, I can't figure out why anyone would put a flap and a button below the placket.  Seems like a lot of extra work to go to if it doesn't do anything...  Hard to believe it's decoration, since it would likely be hidden under a vest.

Thanks in advance for your replies.

[flyingcollie]

I'm no clothing authenticity expert . . .  but I do think that the suppliers you mention often take a lot of liberties with authenticity - buttons on Wahmaker frock coats come to mind . . . as well as the fabrics used etc., etc.

As for the shirts, like the absence of a collar (the buttonholes are meant to accept the studs for a detatchable celluloid collar) the "odd" button at the bottom of the shirt front placket is intended to hold down a detatchable celluloid formal shirt-front.  At least, I think that's what it's for.  I'm as interested as you are to learn what others know about this.

[Delmonico]

Simple, for the non-pot bellied guys buttoning that into the top button of the pants and tightening the belt in back allows the pants to be worn with out suspenders.

Those shirts are not collarless, they have a banded coller, a true collarless shirt has a rolled edge, the ones you are talking about have a collar, just not the extra piece that makes the fold down collar.  Look at a fold down collar shirt, it has the same piece unless it has what's called a sailors collar.

[Octagonal Barrel]

Thanks for the replies, guys.  I knew about the collars for "collarless" shirts.  In fact, I found this place, Amazon Dry Goods, http://www.amazondrygoods.com/categories/collars.html, which claims to be the last paper collar maker in America, and they still use a paper collar machine from the period.  I may get some from them.

Delmonico, thanks.  If I understand you correctly, the flap is in fact historical.  But what about the button that holds the flap down - for those of us with pot bellies and suspenders?  Is a button to hold the flap down authentic?  (My shirt doesn't happen to have a button there, the flap sticks out.  I'll probably sew one on just to keep the flap in place.  Again, I ask out of curiosity.  I don't think the R.O.'s fashion undersheriff will throw me in the clothier's hoosegow if I get this wrong...)

[pony express]

You could just use a few small stiches to keep it from sticking out.

[Delmonico]

Yep the button hole is correct also.  Now not every shirt had a flap, but some did.

[Skeeter Lewis]

This is a view from the inside of pants made from the Laughing Moon pattern. The button on the right is not a fly button. It has its own button hole and its sole function is to anchor a shirt.

[Octagonal Barrel]

Amazing.  Not just an explanation, but a photo to boot!  Thanks, guys.  Fashions have changed so much, I'd never have guessed it was a shirt anchor.  But I figured it had to have some function.  Now I know.  This forum is a great resource!

[Abilene]

I've got a couple shirts with the tab and button as described.  But one of them, somewhat of a dress shirt, also has two tabs with buttons on the sides of the placket, apparently to capture the braces.  I have no idea if this feature is also authentic.  I'm not sure why they would be needed and trying to unbutton them in a hurry in certain situations could be a problem 

[Octagonal Barrel]

I believe, you will find the greatest percentage of these shirts with the "mysterious" button hole tab, will be of the finer quality, or dress type/like shirts.
The more common, everyday work type shits will not have this feature.
Your impression would depend on how "formal" you wished to be at any one given time and/or place.
(just my opinion)
  Blair

I did notice most of the shirts which had this also have an inset bib, which I'm sure is more formal than a work shirt.  Thanks for the observation about shirts and impressions.