Work Bench

[TexasToby]

Guys I want to know what to use to finish the work bench top. I am making a new work bench using 3/4" plywood for the top. I was thinking about finishing with something like lacquer. So I decided to ask what yall thought about a finish to go onto plywood? Your thoughts will be appreciated. Texas Toby

[Marshal Will Wingam]

When I worked in the saddle shop, we just used plain plywood. When it got ragged, we took the top off and put a new piece of plywood on. We never seemed to need any finish on it. To this day, that's what I use. You may want to just screw another piece of plywood over the top to replace down the line.

[Camano Ridge]

I use hard board on my work bench. Just screw it to the ply wood. If you use the right screws they will counter sink them selves and give you a nice smoth surface. If you get dye on it, make cuts into it and just generaly get it ratty looking just unscrew it and screw down a new sheet.

[cavsgt]

  All of our benches that do not have a teflon top are covered with tempered masonite.  If we knew then what we know now there would not have been the money spent on the teflon.  It is a good surface but has become very expensive. 

[bedbugbilly]

I've made a lot of different workbenches over the years - mainly for woodworking.  In my cabinet shop, I used a 4 X 8 sheet of 3/4" plywood as an "inset" on the top - mainly for the reason that Will states - when it gets ratty, I could flip it and use the other side - then replace as necessary.  I didn't think twice about tacking strips fo wood for "stops", clamping, etc. on it.

For leatherwork - my bench in AZ has a refinished laminate top.  After a couple of years, it's showing some wear as well as stains from accidental spills, etc.  I'm not real happy with it but then it is a particle board top.  I'll probably replace it with 3/4" plywood at some point.

On my small bench that I have in MI, I used a piece of 3/4" plywood as a sub base - on top of that, I used a piece of luan underlayment plywood that just sits on the top (so to speak).  On the luan plywood, I applied 12 X 12 sticky back floor tile that are light in color.  I expected them to wear out but they are still going strong.  The edge of the bench is banded with a 1 X 2 flush with the top of the floor tile which keeps the luan/floor tile piece from slipping on the 3/4" plywood.  Spills wipe up well and it has proven to be very durable.

The next bench I build I'm going to try using laminated flooring for the top.  Use a 3/4" sub base for the top and put the laminate flooring on top - held in place by an edge band.  (I'm talking a laminated flooring such as Pergo, etc.).  It's pretty tough stuff that should last a long time and easily found at Home Depot, Lowes, Sams Club, etc.  I will use something like a "light maple" so that things can easily be seen on the bench top.  Either the glued joint or self locking joint would work fine.

I should mention that I don't cut directly on my bench tops.  On small items, I cut on a self healing backer cutting pad - for large pieces, I have a 2' X 4' piece of plywood for a cutting board.  I use it for such jobs as cutting a straight edge on a hide before using a strap cutter for straps/belts or for pieces that are too big to cut on my self healing pad.

I learned many, many years ago that a bench top is a "work top" . . . i.e. it isn't going to stay "pretty looking".  I've sprayed many gallons of lacquer when I had my custom cabinet/millwork shop and that would work fine if that's what you want to do.  Remember that a lot of things get moved around on a bench top - granite slab, cans, tools, etc. so a "high wear" lacquer would probably be better and a little more durable over time.  Good luck and let us know how your bench turns out.   

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

I prefer a sealed finish, one that will not absorb any liquids, I use an acrylic clear or one that has a stain already in it , I've used this on plywood and hard board, but for a top I like using horse stall mats the 4'x6' size x 3/4" thick for cutting leather, I cut the mat to fit what ever bench I do my cutting on , they work great and help my blades stay sharp much longer, as for wood top finishes, I like being able to wipe the top off and get all dirt off before starting any leather work, or anything else, a sealed top will allow you to do this, leaving no dirt/oil or anything that can stain or color your leather I share my leather bench with my loading ammo, and like things clean..


        tEN wOLVES   

[ChurchandSon]

At Realjob I build trade show exhibits and we have about 50 5 x 12 ft. laminated workbenches...After years of trying to keep them in good shape now they are all covered with cardboard...Gets dirty , stained, glue sprayed or drilled threw just rip it off and tape on a new layer...I buy cardboard from a neighbor paper business and they save me "seconds"....It has saved thousands on refubish materials and time...Red Rosin paper, a waxed craft paper in large rolls gets rolled across cardboard for those perfectly clean jobs....

[TexasToby]

Thanks again guys for all the input. I think I like the idea of a sealant because it is easier to keep really clean. I usually do most of my cutting on a poly plastic cutting board. My wife had bought one to use in the kitchen and I borrowed it. I liked cutting on it and saw Tandy had some small ones listed. I looked on the internet and found some larger ones 18"X24". I bought 4 of them so that gives me an 18"X8' board. of course these have a beveled edge, so I have to move the leather a little as to not cut in a joint. But I do like these for cutting, especially like holsters. One board is a pretty good size board for small projects. You are going to be turning your leather anyway so I don't find any problem keeping it on the board. I have one board that I have used more than the rest of them and some of the cuts have gathered bits of leather and other debrie so I am about ready to retire it to cutting the larger pieces like gun belts so it won't be used as much but I still get some use out of it. Also you can use both sides. The boards I have are 1/2" thick.
So thanks again and have a good day doing whatever makes you a happy camper. Texas Toby

[TexasToby]

I was just looking at www.usplastic.com/ and when I get ready to order more cutting board I may buy from here. You can order any size including a 48"X96" if that is what you want. Texas Toby

[Marshal Will Wingam]

That's a great link, Toby. Thanks for posting it. I just took a look and they have UHMW sheet in various thicknesses. I'd think that would make a great cutting surface.