Novice question :drilling stitching holes vs diamond stitching awl

[BobbyF]

The time honored awl has been around a long time. Is there a structural problem drilling a snug hole? I usually cement as well. I appreciate any opinions. Thanks

[Kendoo Kid]

I am new to leather working myself and did a few sample pieces before doing my work piece and the awl makes a hole that closes up around the thread much better than the drilled hole. I am not sure how this translates structurally, but it looks much better with the hole punched with the awl. Hope this helps!

[Bugscuffle]

I have recently started using a method that I picked up from this forum a short while back. I think that it was Cliff Fendly that posted it. He uses a finishing nail chucked up in a drill press. it works just great and you can get the all of the holes perfectly perpendicular. That's important if you want the back side of your stitches to look as nice as the front side, especially if you are sewing several layers of heavy leather.

[WaddWatsonEllis]

Hi ,

Leather definitely has a memory; if all the leather is there, it will try to go back to its original form ... that is why a drill press with needle is felt to leave something to be desired ....

Cliff Fendlly's method seems to be the best of both worlds; because he uses a small nail rather than a drill bit, he has the straight hole and speed that a drill press is so good at ... but the hole with still swell up and 'lock' the thread .... making  a VERY strong stitch ....

TTFN,

[Graveyard Jack]

I really like the way holes punched with an awl close up around the thread. I wouldn't do it any other way.

[Massive]

The other thing about drilling is that it is meant to go through at a certain pace, cutting as it goes.  Leather being soft, one can pretty much press a drill through, but it will be a long spiral hole, or something odd.  People aren't going to take the time to make the whole that one woould take in wood or metal, so it is not going to cut.  The awl, is an option there.  If you look at a finishing snail, you will notice the end is formed like a dagger, so that there is an x formation with four facets, but two of the edges have a sharpened edge to them.  This is so that the nail can be oriented to cut across the fibers rather than split a delicate piece of wood.  So when you use a nail be sure to orient it to take advantage, or just buy an awl and chuck that in.

All that said, there might be some value in learning how to really hand stitch and handle an awl for real.  There are good shoemaking videos, and Hermes videos online.  As well as the Tandy ones.

[Bugscuffle]

When making the holes with the drill press, I usually do not run the drill. I just use it to punch the holes unless the piece is too thick and/or too tough to punch through without bending the nail. That way, no "spiral hole".

[Cliff Fendley]

I use the bench top mill and the small finish nail for heavy material since my poor old arm and shoulder doesn't like pushing the awl through heavy material.

The nail I use does not still have cut ends as Massive speaks of, I spun it on a piece of sand paper to make the end perfectly smooth and sharp.

This way I can turn on the mill (or drill press) as I poke the holes. I have a small Oak block that I put in the mill vise so it supports the back side of the project and makes a perfect little round hole.

This is just the pilot hole, the nail I am using does not make a large enough hole to stitch.

I still use a diamond saddlers awl when hand sewing. On thin projects like a money belt you really dont need to pre punch the holes because the awl goes through easy.

Using the press seems like an extra step but the time it saves and the wear and tear on my arm and shoulder is worth it on heavy material.

[Sgt. C.J. Sabre]

I attack this a slightly different way. I too use a 3/32" drill bit, but in a Dremel tool. I hold a piece of scrap wood under the leather, run the dremel, and go at it. It makes a clean hole that you can virtually drop a needle through. Both ways.
The high speed drill also burnishes the holes, and I've never had one tear.
I finish by making my last three holes 1/8". It takes pliers to pull the needld through, but the thread doesn't come out. 

[Cliff Fendley]

The problem with using a drill bit is you remove material. It's best to just open the leather up to allow sewing.

As Wadd noted above, afterwards the leather will close back around the thread and makes a neater, tighter, and stronger stitch.

[Don Nix]

I have used an awl for years and do not anticipate doing it any other way. I really enjoy using an awl and can sew ralatively fast. I have repaired and built a little bit of everything over the years nad  have found that its the best way. There is a secret and that is to use a sharp awl. I sharpen my awls on  rouge board and keep them sharp. . If you will practice holding the awl and leather correctly youll find that you can sew through heavy 12oz layers with ease,plus it leaves the nicest stitch whether your covering a stirrup,a horn skirting or welts its the best way to get it right.

[TexasToby]

I have arthritis really bad in both hands and I drill when I can unless it is something that I want to be more authinic.

[BobbyF]

Thank you all for your insights . I will stay with the awl and enjoy the simplicity  of its use, after all I am not in a rush. Thanks BobbyF

[Grenadier]

I learned the needle in a drill press trick many years ago.A longtime leather worker told me that removing material with a drill bit or a punch simply makes a weak spot and to always punch my stitching holes with an awl or needle.

One thing that has worked well for me is to wax the needle with beeswax every so often, especially on thick leather. It lubricates the needle and helps the waxed thread to move easier through the hole.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

One thing that has worked well for me is to wax the needle with beeswax every so often, especially on thick leather. It lubricates the needle and helps the waxed thread to move easier through the hole.

This is good advice. I always have a cake of beeswax on hand to stick the awl into when it starts to show resistance going through the leather.

[mikesmith648]

A very sharp awl and a block of parrafin or beeswax to punch into is the easiest way. You can also put the awl into the drill press and not turning it on, this allows you to "punch" the holes and keep them straight. Hope this helps.
Mike

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

I like using a stitching chisel as much as I can, and when my work is too thick, I will use a 1/16" drill bit in my Dremmel to make my holes, my awl is always handy for curved and hard to get to places, my hands aren't what they used to be, and doing what I do makes it much easier on them, and my work turns out fine for me.

            tEN wOLVES 

[rickk]

A diamond chisel, when used properly, makes a row of angled slots rather than round holes.

While the slot is still long enough to do what needs to be done, the distance between the slots is greater than if the same sized opening was made at the same hole spacing with either a round awl or a drill press.

Since the distance between slots is greater when a diamond slot is punched, there is less chance of the leather ripping between stitches as the piece gets use (probably the most common cause of leather work failure).

Rick