Some advice on "rotary cutters" please . . .

[bedbugbilly]

Normally, on holsters, I have an assortment of large hole punches (arch punches) that I use to cut inside curves with and they work great.  For cutting the rest of the holster out, I usually use a razor knife with replaceable blades on top of the thick rubber type pad.  I have a decent head knife but have never had a whole lot of luck utilizing that - plus I'm always a little afraid of "slipping" with it - OUCH!

I know "rotary cutters" have been discussed a little at times and I  think I'd like to try one out.  Does anyone on here use them for cutting out holsters?  I know they work well for straight cuts, etc. but am wondering how they work on gentle inside (I'm talking large) and outside curves?

How well do they work on thicker leather?  Normally, I'd be talking of anywhere between 6 oz to 10 oz. as I think they might be handy on other projects as well.

If I get one, I want to get a decent one . . i.e. I'd rather spend a little more and get a sturdy one that is well made as opposed to a "cheapie".  What brands seem to be the best? 

Or . . . am I barking up the wrong tree in regards to using a rotary cutter?  The holsters I make vary in size from smaller CCW holsters up to larger ones for C & B (Colt Army & Navy, '58 Remingtons, etc.). 

For those that use them . . . what's the best backer to use for cutting on?  The backer like quilters use for cutting material on with the rotary cutter or the thick rubber like pad like I use for a backer for using punches, etc.?

How long do the blades last and can they be "touched up" with something like a buffing wheel and rouge to resharpen them?

Thanks for thoughts and suggestions.  Greatly appreciated.   

[Massive]

I use rotary cutters for some leather, and a lot of fabric work, for outdoor fabrics.  They come in different diameters, but I have only used the size that is about 2" and they do not cut most holster cuts.  They will cut heavy leather but they don't really handle it well.  I drop out at about 6 oz.  The kind of thing were it might be worth it would be say linings for belts.

The best mats are the self-healing ones, but the cuts will sometimes stuff with leather dust, and then they won't heal up.  So I do not really like the self healing ones for leather, and the other mats I use get cut up pretty badly if I use the rotary knives.  The rotaries seem good for fabric, and not too good for leather.  I bought one at walmart, and since have purchased a sturdier one from Tandy.  But sturdy is not as important as sharp.  The blades are expensive.  I sharpen them on a strop with 14000 diamond paste, you can buy it on ebay.  It is twice as fast at least as any other strop.  I use it on all kinds of leather tools, including sewing machine needles.

I was watching this video online by a holster guy using a head knife.  I had one 40 years ago, but didn't really know how to use it.  He seemed to be getting far better use out of his knife than I was getting trying to use a rotary, so I broke out the head knife, and now I am sold.  The knife has to be really, really sharp.  One needs to keep firm contact with the board, but not any more than necessary.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mjr72-ANHq0&list=UUhaIJk-tkle_lNHBEsLPVKw&index=8

[Slowhand Bob]

After several cuts of varying degrees  over the years, I decided to go back to the old 'box opener' utility knife.  It is actually a real project delay when one has to wait for the finger filets to grow back and sometimes I could never get the leather stains to cover the blood stains very well either!  I use three primary knives for most of my cutting, an angled head utility knife, a curved clicker knife and an angled head carpet knife.  The only time I use the roller blades is for cutting upholstery, suede or light weight fringe with a quilting guide.

My favorite cutting surface is the white plastic butcher blocks.  The blades seem to slip along very well on the surface of these without digging in, cutting grooves or grabbing, like they do with rubber surfaces.  I usually buy the large thick ones at the Local Sams Club in the restaurant supplies area.  After they get some age on them, they go on a neat stack while waiting for the day I find someone with a thickness sander to redress their surfaces for me.  I am sure the black plastic surface used for clicker machines would work as well but I have not tried them as yet.   

[Red Cent]

I agree with SB on the polyboard. I was watching a video of Hurst and he was using one. It will not allow the blade of the headknife to penetrate slightly and the blade seems to glide, even with 8-9 ounce.
Get a "good" roller blade. The cheap ones are not sturdy and the blade will wobble. Good for straight lines and long gradual curves. I like the headknife and revert to the utility knife for the angle and small curves.
ymmv

[KidTerico]

I use it on long straight cuts. Works great. Don't like it on curves. On straight cuts a cheap one will work fine. Blades last a long time. I cut on Butcher board.I throw blades away don't sharpen because they last so long. I cut leather up to 12 ounce. KT

[Red Cent]

If you have not used the headknife on polyboard, you need to give it a try. The polyboard removes the herky jerky movements of the self healer. I have two self healers of 2'x3' each for other cutting tols.

[bedbugbilly]

Red Cent - that probably is one of my problems with the head knife as I usually have tried it on the self healing pad - a few times with a packer of soft pine on the work bench when making long straight cuts - still ended up with the "jerky" problem that you mention.  I'm headed back to MI for the summer and taking my leather working tools, etc. back with me this time as we will probably be delayed in getting back to AZ next winter due to my wife's mother now being in assisted living.  I'll pick up seveal of the boards at Sam's (my wife will appreciate me not borrowing her's   ). 

I'm going to pick up a rotary cutter and will give it a try.  Even if it only works well on straight cuts I think it would be pretty convenient to have one.  I do pretty well with the utility knife and that will always be on my bench but was just looking for a 'better" way if one exists.

Thanks to everyone for you help and suggestions - greatly appreciated!   

[Graveyard Jack]

I use one and it works beautifully on long, straight cuts or gentle curves but I don't even try it for anything else. For holsters, I only use it to cut the piece off the hide my pattern is on, never for the pattern itself. I use the small curved blade knife for that.

[Slowhand Bob]

Billy, do not feel that the utility knife is in anyway a less professional option.  I know for a fact that more than a couple of top notch custom makers have chosen it as their primary go-to knife.  Just be sure to understand that though any blade can be dangerous if used carelessly, the head knife and the technique used for it makes it especially prone to accidents without very practised vigilance.  Always keep it razor sharp and always be aware of your off-hands position, once the balde slips you can not call it back!.

PS: My experience was to always keep a good medical tape close to the bench for holding the finger slabs in place while they grew back together and Neosporin helps with the infection, pain and lessons scarring.

[Red Cent]

I guess its like dropping a gun during a stage. Two kinds. Those who have and those who will.

The polyboard doesn't allow you to have a dull head knife but the polyboard allows easier operation. I find if I use a scribe to make a line I can follow it better than a pencil line. The line produces a definite shadow that is easily followed with the big blade. I am sure it would work very well with a good utility knife.

That brings up a question. The hole punches that I have have an "inward bevel". I cannot use them after a cut. Do they make a stright wall punch or do you simply cut a hole in the sharp curves before you cut?

[Cliff Fendley]

Punch a hole in the sharp curves before you cut.

[bedbugbilly]

+1 to what Cliff said.  I always lay my pattern out and if I have inside curves, the hole punches get used first.  I don't have a complete set of arch punches but I've got a pretty good selection from 5/8" through 2".  It took me a while to accumulate them over time but I use them a lot.  I also have (if I remember the size correctly) one of the round end strap punches - I believe in 1/2" - the punch used to round off the ends of straps.  The arch on mine is a little more elongated than round - it works out well at the fold line/center line of the bucket at the toe - I don't use it on all holster patterns but on some flat sewn toes it works nicely.  Most of my arch punches I purchased off of eBay - some were used/some new - but i just kept watch and i got all of them at a much cheaper price that having to buy them new.

Slowhand - it's not that I consider the utility knife unprofessional - just always looking for a better or easier way to do things.  The right tools always make it easier as well as cutting down on the time.  So far, I haven't had any mishaps with the head knife and I keep it sharp but what I really need to do is spend some serious time learning the techniques of using it.  I appreciate your and everyone else's comments and suggestions though as let's face it, we learn from each  other and it's a continuing process.  I think that if any of us stopped learning new techniques or better ways to do something, we'd soon get bored!

I was packing up a tool box to take my leather working tools with me back to MI for the summer so I can do some work back there.  I was picking out tools, punches, etc. that I knew I'd use and need - pretty much the same ones that I always grab for.  You know, it's funny how many were left on the bench in the racks when I was done - primarily tools I bought because I thought i'd need them but then I never use them.  The same way with some of my stamps, etc.  Of course the things we make and work on sort of dictate what you need but when I get back here in AZ next winter, I am going to do some housecleaning for sure.

At least we live in an age where we have more options than our ancestors did who did leatherwork and made harnesses, etc. - while the basic tools remain the same - at least we have disposable blades, rotary cutters, self healing mats, etc. - sort of the "high tech" stuff. It would be interesting to know what they would think of these things if they could come back and see them - I have a feeling that most would still stick to the age old traditional ways of doing things?   

   

[Slowhand Bob]

Those holes that get punched as a ummm clicker cut in the tight radius's are often not a straight edged cut but rather have a slope.  I dress these with a sanding drum mounted in a Dremel as part of the overall edge dressing.  Something that those who like to use waxes for edge dressing can try the small Dremel felt buffing heads in those tight curves.  To pre-prep them just run the felt against the wax using higher speeds and really light pressure for the first loading to get the wax melted in place deeper.

[bedbugbilly]

Slowhand - I should have mentioned that in my earlier post. I also use a dremel with a sanding drum to dress and square the edge after using the arch punches on the inside curves.  I use a dremel with a drum sander on most of the edges in fact so smooth things out a little after I've used the utility knife as well - especially if a curve is not graceful and flowing as a result of my cutting.