Shotgun sighting question

[Bugscuffle]

Way back when, there was a theory that sights were not necessary on a shotgun. Instead of the traditional bead sight on the end of the shotgun barrel, or in some cases in addition to the bead sight, the shooter would paint a series of dashes along the center rib or center line of the barrel. The lengths of the dashes were equal to the spaces between the dashes. In theory the line that you saw when you mounted the gun would aid in getting the gun pointed in the right direction. I have done some preliminary testing using this method and have had some pretty good success. It seems a lot easier to bring the gun to bear and my times have fallen off significantly. My question is, in that this does not change the color or configuration of the sights on the gun, is it legal to use in SASS?

If you experiment a little with the dash length and spacing, you can come up with a system that will show you one continuous line when the gun is aimed exactly at the target, and despite what it seems like, it IS faster than using just the front bead, at least for me. I used little pieces of masking tape to come up with the right spacing/length configuration.

[August]

One shotgun re-engagement is 1/2 to 3/4 of a miss penalty.  I'll keep my sights, thanks.

[Pettifogger]

If you have to think about it, you probably aren't shooting all that fast.

[Paladin Gun For Hire]

For me, I find that pointing the shotgun works a lot better that aiming. Have not used sights in years.

[Sir Charles deMouton-Black]

The most important part of the shotgun sighting system is the eye.  It is positioned correctly when the gun butt is properly positioned and with firm cheek pressure on the stock, often called "stock-weld".

The front sight is the muzzle/bead. For CAS the bead is less important, except that if you see too much of that muzzle/bead you will likely overshoot.  The shorter your coachgun the more you will overshoot.

So, you don't think you can miss shotgun target

[cpt dan blodgett]

Think the biggest problem with a shotgun is having the gun too low.  This causes one to shoot high.  If you can see a lot of barrel or the dashed lines in the original post, the gun is too low.  The way a gun is stocked has a role in how the gun mounts.  Old timey shotguns seem to have more drop in the stock, bringing the barrels up to the eye better.  The downside to a lot of drop is the gun tends to rotate up and bite your cheek on recoil.  Modern guns seem to have less drop reducing cheek bite but they make it easier to mount the gun too low.

[Red Cent]

The newer double barrels, unless you are used to them, can cause havoc with new shooters. If an average person throws a sxs up to their shoulder and prepare to shoot quickly, they will see all the barrel from reciever to end of the barrel.  The old pros simply take a six o'clock hold and shoot. This is simiilar to a trap gun. They are made to see this picture when you mount the shotgun. Takes care of the  riise, all you do is supply the lead.
Proper techniques of shotgun shooting in any action arena is to point, not aim, the shotgun. A practiced gunner will be aware of the barrel and sight but will not concentrate on them. Comes with practice.
The biggest problem is the fit of the shotgun. If it ain't shootin' where your'e lookin', it don't fit ya. And each discipline will require a different "setup". A field gun has more drop at the heel than a traap gun. A proper trap gun should have the proper cast for the right hander or the lefty. Length of pull to the balance of th gun. In cowboy, you adapt to the shotgun. I built a double recently just for the fun of it. The first thing I did was to take about an inch or more off the top of the comb of the stock. Now when I throw it to my shoulder, I cannot see the barrel, just a big sight I make for some of us out of brrss slotted screw filed flat on both sides and mounted parallel iwth the barrel. Can'tignore it if you try.
As stated Bugscuffle, if you are lining all this up, you'll get killed.

[Delmonico]

The biggest thing most never bother to check with a shotgun and I'm talking the whole route, from CAS shooters to trap shooters to bird hunters, does the dang thing shoot when it's pointed with the method yo use, at the range you shoot and what does the pattern look like at the same ranges?

If you can not honestly answer this question it's about time you got some large sheets of paper hung up and quite worrying about the later steps before the first on is done.  

Oh and on the double barrel gun, you need to make sure both of them shoot to point of aim.

[Bugscuffle]

Thanks for then opinions and advice. I will try to take heed of all of it. After putting some though into it I believe that I may be over thinking this. I was a skeet shooter a number of years ago, so maybe I'm trying to do too much "aim" and too little "blast the little " )(^OP+_(&".

[Red Cent]

Bugscuffle, as you probably know, the faster you can pick up a bird in skeet or trap the better. With a shotgun that has "field model " stock,  there is not much if any daylight between the bottom of the bird and the front bead. If you shot skeet with a trap gun, you would have to have considerably more daylight because of the straight stock. 'Course, the favorite gun at trap years ago was Model 12 with a rib and field style stock. Adapt.

[Bugscuffle]

My clay bird shooting was to develop some proficiency while duck and goose hunting. I did all of my shooting with a 12 Ga. Winchester 101 field grade with 30" barrels and a 20 Ga. Charles Daly Superior Grade with 26" barrels. All that I have ever shot has been field guns.