Let's discuss the quality of uniform wool.

[G.W. Strong]

Let's discuss the quality of uniform wool. After looking through some of Langieller's GI series books such as Redlegs and Sound the Charge. I have noticed that some of the clearest pictures show the pattern of the wool blouses quite clearly have a tight weave and a twill pattern (I think that is the term). My uniform wool is not like that. It is slightly fuzzy and more felted that twill. My 1883 shirt has the twill pattern. So that got me thinking about the quality of wool used in repro uniforms. Do I just have an inferior one and others have better ones? Are they all like mine? Does anyone reproduce uniforms using the proper quality of wool?

Discuss...

[Pitspitr]

Yes, but it is pricey.

The twill look is often times after the cloth becomes slightly threadbare, but most wool used today is really too heavy. The correct wool for a blouse is a wool flannel, quite similar to a shirt. By contrast most reproduction M-1874 blouses use a wool almost as heavy as a blanket. Other problems include piping that is set into seams instead of being just a cord sewn onto the sleeve or collar. If you are looking for correct Kersey for trousers or great-coats Woolrich probably makes the best available even though it appears they've started using some nylon. http://www.woolrichfabrics.com/

The people you really need to talk with are Joe Blunt and Chris Fischer. Joe runs Carter and Jasper Merchantile http://www.carterandjasper.com/ If Joe can't help you, contact Chris Fischer (F-Trooper here on CasCity) and he should be able to help you find what you need. Chris and Joe were both supposed to be at the DoM muster last summer but both had things come up so that they couldn't. (that reminds me I need to re-invite them for this summer's)

You can also contact the following and find out if they are still in business:

Charles Childs (Country Cloth)
13797-C Georgetown st.
Paris, OH 44669
(216) 862-3307

Nicholas Sekela
Historical Clothiers
P. 0. Box 28
Butler, NJ 07405
(201) 283-0800

All three of the vendors I mentioned are museum quality, but all three, to the best of my knowledge, are Mom and Pop shops so you might have to wait a while. Be patient, they are worth the wait.

[G.W. Strong]

Hello Colonel,
Thanks for the info.
I know Chris Fischer well. I visited him last May and we explored the forts of South Texas. He is an excellent fellow. He gave me the contact info for Joe Blunt when I was looking at 1872 blouses.


I had not heard of Woolrich or Country Cloth and I will check them out.

I have ordered an 1881 undershirt from Sekela about 2 weeks ago. I will  bring it in July.

I got my 1883 shirt from Quartermaster Depot and it seems like good quality wool. I know he does Uniform blouses for SAW period. I wonder   what the quality of his blouse wool is. I would eventually like to have an extremely high quality uniform. 

[Pitspitr]

In the GAF Regulations child board there is a thread called Uniform and Equipment Suppliers http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php/topic,33884.0.html
The list there is a document I "borrowed" from the General Miles Marching and Chowder Society. They were an extremely "hard core" living history group and required museum quality reproductions be used at their encampments. The list I borrowed was their approved suppliers. You can be assured that anyone llisted in it will be able to supply "an extremely high quality uniform." What time frame and uniform parts are you looking for?

Since you know Chris be sure to encourage him to join us in July.

[G.W. Strong]

In the GAF Regulations child board there is a thread called Uniform and Equipment Suppliers http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php/topic,33884.0.html
The list there is a document I "borrowed" from the General Miles Marching and Chowder Society. They were an extremely "hard core" living history group and required museum quality reproductions be used at their encampments. The list I borrowed was their approved suppliers. You can be assured that anyone llisted in it will be able to supply "an extremely high quality uniform." What time frame and uniform parts are you looking for?

Since you know Chris be sure to encourage him to join us in July.

To be honest, when I started here I looked at that list but was extremely frustrated by it. Most of the main producers seemed to no longer be in business. The few that seemed to be in business were mostly just phone numbers without any websites for pictures. Even more frustrating was the broad list of suppliers without any mention of what they supply.

I guess it is time for an update and because I am the one complaining about it, I suppose the task would fall to me. I am willing to do the leg work to create a list like this for the GAF with perhaps two or three levels of authenticity/accuracy. I also think we need more basic info on the web for new recruits to help them with their impressions.  Would you be willing to help me decide what goes in what category?

[Niederlander]

I think that would be a great help to people starting out in this little niche of ours.  It would also be of help to anyone trying to improve their uniforms.  You might also include research findings on individual uniform or equipment items not generally covered in commonly available resource material.  (My experience with the Span Am era Marine "field shirt" showed me that what is generally believed is not always correct.)

[cpt dan blodgett]

I got my CW blouse from Ft Larimie trading post, it is wool flannel that feels almost 1/2 as heavy as my Coon Creek IW Sack Coat.  This coat is about blanket thick.  I also ordered one of Fort Laramies Senior officer frock coats that I had Leta from Coon Creek dress up like a 72 Coat with the braid on the sleeves and the other set of button holes.  The knock on that frock Coat is that the clove pockets were not built into the back of the coat.  I have in hand 1858 and kersey blue pants from the civil war that were made by Milk Creek,  Both are 20 oz wool.  I have a pair of IW wool pants that I got from Leta at Coon Creek that are made from a thinner material.  I am still waiting receipt of a CW Company Grade frock Coat, CW Senior officer frock Coat and Dark Blue over coat from Milk Creek.   Think all of those are also 20 Oz fabric. 

I ordered a wool IW / SAW shirt from Junction City.  It is flannel for sure but you can see the twill like underweave if you look closely, not knowing what the proper weight flannel should be I am happy with the shirt.

If any of the real gurus are going to be at WR let me know and I would be happy to get your assessment.

My Dress Blues from my active days are made from 16 OZ Wool Elastique and really look good, wish I could afford to get my uniforms for CAS and GAF made from that material.  Period correct or not they would certainly look good.

[G.W. Strong]

OK, I took a stab at it.

Since I complained it falls to me.

This is very preliminary.

I started with the link above and began to flesh it out. I also added grading. After the full thing is up we can quibble over if something is an A or an A- or a B+ and there will be room to add notes about what makes it superior or less than awesome.

Here is a link. If you all think this has merit I will push onward. I also plan on pushing the date to the end of the century to cover SAW.

http://talbotsfineaccessories.com/GAF/Uniform/GAF%20US%20Army%20Uniforms.html (Please note the new URL)



If this one works out we can do the same thing for Army Officer's Uniforms, and Marine uniforms, and Navy Uniforms and British uniforms and on and on. Once the template is there anything can be done.

[Niederlander]

That looks like a great start, Doug!

[pony express]

Have you actually seen the items from US History? From what I've heard online, they are not too good to do business with. I haven't ever tried to contact them for that reason, but thir website does have a lot of information for reference.

[Pitspitr]

Have you actually seen the items from US History? From what I've heard online, they are not too good to do business with. I haven't ever tried to contact them for that reason, but thir website does have a lot of information for reference.

Yeah that's what I've heard too and I guess they don't actually make their own stuff. But, as Ned has said, it's a great start. I think you can remove Connie Lindmeier from the list. I understand she's even sold her patterns. You can remove Joyce Gabriel as well since she has limited production.

[G.W. Strong]

How about I label USHist as unable to grade

I will keep working on this over the next few weeks

I am inclined to leave the GMMACS recommendations in tact since these items sometimes become available second hand and it would let folks know these are high quality items. However I need to find a method to denote companies and suppliers that are not longer in production.

[pony express]

Missouri Boot and shoe only lists CW era shoes on his site, I know that he no longer makes the 1892 shoe(e-mailed him about those). I never asked about aby of the other IW period shoes.

Here you can get the 1892, as well as shoes from many other countries. Out of my budget for now, but reported to be really good quality.
http://www.civilwarboots.com/war_boots.asp

[G.W. Strong]

I have done a little more work on this. Where possible I will illustrate it with one of the following in order of preference.
1. Quartermaster drawings or Photos
2. Photos of surviving originals
3. Clear period photographs of the item being worn or used.
4. High quality reproduction.

I have also moved it to a slightly different site.
http://talbotsfineaccessories.com/GAF/Uniform/GAF%20US%20Army%20Uniforms.html

[Grenadier]

It's strange that I find you everywhere I haunt too, Doug!

[G.W. Strong]

It's strange that I find you everywhere I haunt too, Doug!

Well, this is where all the cool people hang out so it is no surprise you would be here too.

[Pitspitr]

It's strange that I find you everywhere I haunt too, Doug!

I didn't see  you at t the department of Missouri muster? That's where the really cool people hang out

[G.W. Strong]

I didn't see  you at t the department of Missouri muster? That's where the really cool people hang out

That is true!

[Gen Lew Wallace]

That is a wealth of information there.  I commend you on it.  I look forward to seeing an officers' list in the future.  If there is anything I can do to assist you don't hesitate to let me know.