Questions about the 1911

[Cookie]

First off, I'm not much of a pistol shooter, but who doesn't want a 1911?

I just bought my first 1911 (well, my first .45 1911) and I got a few questions for the more knowledgeable.

BTW - It's a RIA Mil-Spec M1911A1 in matte black finish.

1) Here's the main issue - I haven't shot any factory loads out of it, so I don't know if this is me or the gun. I've loaded up a bunch of .45 ACP using my go-to .45 Colt bullet - the Lee .452-200 Round Nose. However, the problem I'm having is that if the mag is full, the first round won't chamber, instead it gets knocked out of line, and get's jammed into the load ramp. I have to load my mag partially full to get it to run. (I hope this makes sense.)

I'm assuming the rounds are either too short, or the bullet shape is wrong? If I load them any longer, the lube grooves will be exposed, which I'd rather avoid. Or, is the Lee 200gn SWC a better choice? I could also try the Lee 230gn TC, but I'd rather stick with 200gn. (And don't bother suggesting other brands, unless they're as cheap as Lee.)

2) I do own a GSG .22 1911, and I notice the slide on my .45 is much, much stiffer. The spring is so strong that thumbing the slide release requires a bit of effort. Is it possible for the spring is TOO strong?

3) Was John Browning a leftie? As a southpaw, most guns can be frustrating, but it seems like this baby was designed for me. I LOVE IT in my hands.

[St. George]

The original weapon was built for 230gr jacketed round-nose hardball.

Try getting a box of Winchester's 'White Box', since it pretty well duplicates what Uncle Sam specified.

If you still have problems - look to two things - feed ramp and/or magazine lips.

The magazine lips are the less-expensive fix - just get new ones.

Scouts Out!

[PJ Hardtack]

Cookie

I'm surprised that you find the 1911 'lefty' friendly. A dealer friend once handed me a SS Randall 'Portsider' with the slide in battery. I had been one of his Black Badge instructors, so he knew better.
I tried to lock back the slide and couldn't find the slide lock. Then I looked at the gun and saw an ejection port above where the slide lock should have been. The look on my face must have been priceless.
I've often wondered why more such guns have not been put on the market since one person in twenty is a southpaw.

He laughed and said - "Now you know what a left hander goes through handling a gun designed for right handed use." After that, I became more aware of the problem and admired some of the adept gun handling of lefties, especially with revolvers.  Auto shooters could get ambi safeties and mag releases.

[Cookie]

@St. George - I was kinda hoping to avoid having to buy a $50 box of ammo just to test my gun out. (I reload mostly because that's how I can afford to shoot with 4 teenagers at home.) But obviously if that's the best way to sort this, that's what I'll do.

Being only the second semi-auto pistol I've owned I have no idea if the mag is worn out or not, although it looks fine. No bending, cracking, wear, etc. However, I honestly thinking it's my loads, not the gun. The flat nose is great for my '92 magazine, but not so good for my 1911's magazine.

@PJ - As I said above I have little pistol experience. I just haven't enjoyed shooting pistols nearly as much as shooting rifles & shotguns. But I just HAD to own a 1911. The only other pistols I own are my Remington 58's and my Colt SAA's.

So, I can't really speak to other semi-auto designs, but since the mag release and slide release are both on the left side within easy reach, it's an easy-to-use design. Also I understand that some don't like to point-shoot with the 1911 since the slide can get jammed if their index finger is resting on the release button. Not a problem for me since the button's on the right.

Also, the gun just feels so natural in my hands, I'm guessing me and Mr. Browning had the same size hands.

Other than the feeding issues, I love this gun. I know it's not as fancy as some race guns, but I'm not competing with it and I love the utilitarian functionality of the "mil-spec" design. This is no safe queen.

[Cookie]

Since we're on the subject, here's my funny "southpaw shooting story of the day" - I grew up an air force brat. And during the late 80's while I was a boy scout we did our rifle shooting merit badge at the base's range. We got to shoot all sorts of fun stuff.

Well, the instructor is showing us an M16 and let's us try one on full-auto. I got "lucky" and was picked to try it first. So, I step up to the line and let er rip.

... and almost dropped the thing. Not because of the recoil, but because I had 30 red-hot brass slammed into my exposed right forearm in the blink of an eye. OOOOUUUUUCH!!!!   

The instructor apologized and said he should of caught that I was a leftie before he had me pull the trigger. As compensation he let me rip through an entire 100 round belt in a tripod-mounted M60. 

That old volkswagen on the range caught HELL!!! 

[wildman1]

Your empties should land somewhere between 3' and 9' away from you. Inside of that and your spring is too strong, outside of that and your spring is too weak. I have been buying Federal 230g round nose for about $19 a box I also have started loading hollow point which seem to shoot jest fine. SWCs will also work but ya have ta be carefull not ta limp wrist em. My wife has a 1911 and she couldn't get the slide back so I ordered a reduced power spring for her (13 lbs) from Brownells. I just cut the loads back a little for her. WM

[Jefro]

Howdy Cookie, I have the same gun and run the same Lee 200gr RNFP bullet without any problems, except when I limp wrist it  . 90% of the problems I see folks have is with the mags, get some Chip McCormick mags. My bullet OAL is about 1.165-1.167 right up to the crimp groove, sounds like yours might be set to long. Use the barrel as a chamber gauge, the bullet should drop in and be able to flip it right out with you finger nail. I also use the Lee factory taper crimp die, really makes em feed smooth. Good Luck


Jefro Relax-Enjoy

[PJ Hardtack]

Cookie

I just got back from the range from shooting my Remington R1 (among other guns) with 230 FMJ, 200 RNFP and 180 gr SWC lead.
It shoots everything well, but the 230 FMJs particularly well, even with the GI trigger pull. Wearing gloves, it gave me 5 shot groups off hand at 15m you could cover with a quarter.
I bought the 200 RNFPs for my .45 Colt, but it has become my preferred lead bullet for my 1911s.

I presume that you are operating the mag release with your left index finger? Jeff Cooper would have approved. The mag release is a different matter, requiring quite a shift of your shooting hand. I would find it awkward.

You've got me a little confused with: "... the slide can get jammed if their index finger is resting on the release button. Not a problem for me since the button's on the right."

What gun and what button are we talking about?

[Red Cent]

Cookie, you problem reeks of mag problems. Do not touch the feed ramp. Unless you have ditches, it will be fine. If you are confident the round is proper, then try some Wilson or McCormick mags.

That factory 16# spring is strong enough. A heavier spring simply will cover up symptoms. Everything being equal, an 8# spring will easily return the slide to battery. It will strip the round, capture the round, and chamber it. I run a 12# spring in my WB 1911. I run it wet and I spray it down halfway through the match.

Good luck.

[DeaconKC]

Redcent is right on. The 1911 is especially dependent on good magazines to run right. Also, consider Mec Gar mags, they have served me well.

[Forty Rod]

Cookie, you problem reeks of mag problems. Do not touch the feed ramp. Unless you have ditches, it will be fine. If you are confident the round is proper, then try some Wilson or McCormick mags.

That factory 16# spring is strong enough. A heavier spring simply will cover up symptoms. Everything being equal, an 8# spring will easily return the slide to battery. It will strip the round, capture the round, and chamber it. I run a 12# spring in my WB 1911. I run it wet and I spray it down halfway through the match.

Good luck.

McCormick 8 shot mags and Blazer Brass 230 grain solved all the problems my RIA had.  That and a really good cleaning to get all the manufacturing debris out of it.

I added a pair of Sarco double diamond walnut grips to pretty it up and get rid of the smooth Philippine poshwood.

[PJ Hardtack]

I was shooting my R1 and Colt 'Gold Cup' again today at 25 and 50 yds. Not a bobble with either. My mags are the Remington 8 rd and 'Shooting Star' mags.  I've also got several old Randall SS mags with welded on SS butt pads.

There was a guy shooting an AR variant in .40 calibre, mounted with some type of holographic sight. I was shooting groups off hand at 25 and ringing the 10" x 12" gong at 50. They declined joining me .....
When I began to ring the 18" x 24" 100 yd gong with the Gold Cup, they went indoors to shoot their optically sighted pistols at 15 yds.

1911s can shoot!

[Grapeshot]

First off, I'm not much of a pistol shooter, but who doesn't want a 1911?

I just bought my first 1911 (well, my first .45 1911) and I got a few questions for the more knowledgeable.

BTW - It's a RIA Mil-Spec M1911A1 in matte black finish.

1) Here's the main issue - I haven't shot any factory loads out of it, so I don't know if this is me or the gun. I've loaded up a bunch of .45 ACP using my go-to .45 Colt bullet - the Lee .452-200 Round Nose. However, the problem I'm having is that if the mag is full, the first round won't chamber, instead it gets knocked out of line, and get's jammed into the load ramp. I have to load my mag partially full to get it to run. (I hope this makes sense.)

I'm assuming the rounds are either too short, or the bullet shape is wrong? If I load them any longer, the lube grooves will be exposed, which I'd rather avoid. Or, is the Lee 200gn SWC a better choice? I could also try the Lee 230gn TC, but I'd rather stick with 200gn. (And don't bother suggesting other brands, unless they're as cheap as Lee.)

I've used the Lee .452-250 RNFP for years and I always have some trouble feeding so I did get the Lee TC 230 grs and that solved all my feeding issues.  But do not discount magazine problems, I'd try that fix first as it is easier.

[PJ Hardtack]

Cookie

Get the barrel throat of your pistol looked at by someone who knows 1911s. If it's "mil-spec", it may not be 'throated' to feed anything other than 230 hardball.

Work on eliminating one thing at a time - mags, bullet type and throating. Don't do the 'throating' job yourself as it's easy to wreck a good barrel if improperly done.

[Don Nix]

I have been carrying a 1911 since I was big enough to do so. My dad was a 1911 man and I started carrying his as a teenager ,then as an Army MP and later for 20 years as a civilian Law enforcement officer.I have owned any number from 1911A1s to custom built Colts.And everyone I have ever owned needed to be be throated to some degree and the feed ramp polished to handle anything other than GI issue 230gr. round ball.
if you dont think you can do it yourself take it to a competent 191 shooter/gunshith and get it done. Its not hard doesnt take long to do and it should eat anything you shove down it. but watch your mags also ,a weak spring,or mis adjusted mag lips can cause the round to set too low and snag on the feed ramp.The feedramp and throat ought to be slick and match up well or flat nose rounds will sometimes catch.

[Red Cent]

That current production RIA does not need to be "throated". The factory took care of that. And unless they cut your feed ramp angle wrong, it should not be altered. Very light polishing is recommended. DO NOT take any metal off between the frame and the barrel. There needs to be a shelf left there. Some Dremel experts say to slope the ramp to meet the barrel. That will total the frame.

A good magazine for bullets like we shoot is the Checkmate hybrid.

Your magazines are retaining the round longer than desired not allowing the nose of the round to rise when being stripped from the mag. If you do some research you will find three popular types of mags that handle different bullet designs.

A wadcutter-style magazine with early release feed lips for ball ammo will cause jams. If you use a GI ball-style magazine with slow release feed lips for wadcutters, you will get jams.  If you use a "hybrid" style magazine (Checkmate) with tapered release feed lips you'll end up with a controlled round feed and a very reliable pistol.

Something just occurred to me. One more thing that could be a problem is beveling the bottom of the extractor. In a perfect world, the breechface along with the extarctor captures the round as it travels to the chamber . Controlled feed. If the bottom edge of the channel that the rim of the cartridge enters behind the claw of the extractor is sharp, it may be grabbing the brass and stopping it from feeding. Happens but not too often. My bet is the magazine.

[Lumpy Grits]

Oil the crap out of it(1911)till you get about 1K rounds through it.
Keep the mags loaded as those springs are stiff.
It'll come around.....
LG

[PJ Hardtack]

Also posted this on the gunsmithing page .....

Locked back the slide on my Remington R1 1911 to see the firing pin protruding well past the breech face. Of course, the firing pin retaining plate fell out, which was my first clue.

Taking it down, it became obvious that the problem was associated with the Series '80-type linkage. I think I want to eliminate this aggravation. What do I do .... ?
I have extra retaining plates, but they are for the Series '70-type action. Will they be necessary if the linkage is disabled?

And yes, I know about the standard warning re: disabling a factory safety device.

[Lumpy Grits]

The 80 safety doesn't engage when the slide is "locked back".
Check your FP spring and make sure it is installed the correct way.
Could you have a broken FP maybe??
LG

[PJ Hardtack]

First thing I thought was - "Broken firing pin!". Great way to cause a slam fire.

I had been dry firing the gun with a mag full of dummy rds for the weight. Before putting it away, I dropped the mag and locked back the slide. That's when I noticed the problem ......

There are no burrs on the firing pin or firing pin hole, the spring looks fine and nothing out of sorts in the firing pin hole. Somehow my dry firing had caused the pin to go past the groove on the firing pin and it was held there.

I had to use a hardwood rod and small ball peen hammer to dislodge it.