Lining with rolled over edge

[Camano Ridge]

Has anyone done a rolled over liner around curves like on California/Slim Jim type holster. If so any tips or tricks would be of help. I am not concerned as to wether or not it is period correct. Just trying to see if it can be done and how. I have some scrap leather and some scrap pieces of light weight pig skin to practice with. I would be using light weight pig skin as the liner. ANy ideas or help would be appriciated.

[outrider]

I dont think pigskin is supple enought to do the radical curves on the throat...however.deerskin would possibly work

[Cliff Fendley]

I've never tried it on the curved top of a holster but have thought about it. I've done it on knife sheaths but they were straight across the top.

As outrider said I don't know if the veg tan pigskin is supple enough for the curves.

The chrome tanned might work but you know what they say about not using it.

Try it and let us know.

[ChuckBurrows]

I dont think pigskin is supple enought to do the radical curves on the throat...however.deerskin would possibly work

Cut properly and in teh 1-2 oz weight it works fine.

As for buckskin and other "soft" chrome tans - if properly sealed no real problem except they tend to wear quickly - on the other hand one can use REAL oil tan such as auto chamois easily found, real bark tanned deer, elk , etc. or brain tanned deer, etc (both pricey and more difficult to find), or alum tanned deer, goat, etc again more pricey and harder to find.

All in all though over the last 50 years of leather crafting most liners on holsters are just not worth the extra effort long term (exception being a GOOD bark tanned  cow/pig lining) - as Thad Rybka, premier holster maker has stated - if you want to protect your gun from wear leave it the box...........

BTW - Camano Ridge - is your moniker in reference to Camano Island, Wa? curious since I used to live there......

[Sir Charles deMouton-Black]

I've done it twice, but I agree that it is not worth the bother. 

Its neat when someone else does it for you like El Paso Saddlery

[Freedom]

I made this one a few years ago for mounted shooter.

It is fully lined, (w/rolled edge) with full weight horse hide and then the bucket is renforced with  5oz. rawhide...it is like iron 

[Camano Ridge]

CHuck, yes I am on Camano Island Washington. 1-2 oz pig skin is what I have just trying to figure how to cut it so that it will fit around curves with out bunching up. A customer is insisting it is what he wants and is willing to pay for it.

[Slowhand Bob]

I have really come to prefer liners for a couple or several reasons but do accept that for every reason, there could be an alternate way to achieve the same outcome (to some degree).  I am guessing that the purpose of rolling this edge would be for a rustic decorative effect and to serve as a stiffener at the holsters mouth, other???  Sure the roll can be done but for decorative effect I prefer fitting a separate piece along that top edge and blending it with the edge dressing.    If desired, stiffening can be accomplished by hot water fitting OR by adding a metal skeleton between layers, another reason I like the lined holsters. 

Hot water fitting is a very subjective term and I am not good at thet.  I would really like to hear some of he other pards thoughts on this.  For my purposes hot water is what I get from under the tap, hot enough to be uncomfortable to the skin but not hot enough to cause burns with normal contact.  When cased with hot water you can get a holster that feels almost like a wood carving and holds its shape very well.   

[Trailrider]

I have done it many times. I use 2-3 oz. topgrain veg-tanned cowhide (or calf).  Using a slightly curved shape to the top of the holster is easier than with a trigger-finger cutout, but the cutout style is by no means impossible.  I glue (mainly to hold it in place) and stitch the lining to the outside of the holster body (usually made from 6-7 oz topgrain cowhide), with the finished surfaces facing each other. I then wet the lining thoroughly using tepid...NOT hot tap water.  I apply Barg cement to about the top inch or so of  the flesh (mating) surfaces of the lining and body, and roll the lining over the top of the body, moulding and shaping the lining to conform to the contour of the body.  I pull the lining tightly down on the "inside" of the holster, being careful NOT to press the glued surfaces together too much until I'm satisfield with the tightness of the roll. When I'm satisfied, I do press the glued surfaces together. I then lift the unglued portion of the lining and apply glue to the rest of the surfaces of the body and lining. I then place the holster on a piece of particle board, and put another over the top, and add a bunch of weight. With the sharper curves of the style holster you describe, I cut a piece of particle board to match the contour of the top of the holster and let the roll hang over the edge while the glue dries. I let the glue dry for about three-four hours before removing the weight.  I may stitch a line around the upper body about 1/2 - 3/4" below the roll, mainly for looks, but also to keep the lining from moving.  (For a photo of a roll-over lining on a more straight-top holster...a copy of an authentic original, see the #1851 Utah Scout holster at www.gunfighter.com/trailrider )

[Massive]

This guy is doing a lot of rolled tops:

http://www.jssaddlery.net/index.php/ladies-leather-gun-rig-holsters

[Slowhand Bob]

I would say that he has decided on the look he wants to run with!