Behold... a pale horse

Gen. Jackson · November 17, 2012, 07:22:10 PM

I was asked if I would upload pics my "Hand of God" revolver. So here they are. I hope you folks will enjoy these as much as I enjoyed photographing them.

The revolver is an Uberti .45 Colt with 5 1/2 inch barrel. The frame and hammer are case hardened, but I refinished the frame in semi-gloss gun metal gray ( the case hardening is still intact of course ), and the barrel bluing was softened in color. The backstrap and trigger guard are obviously brass which I think enhances the overall appearance of this piece.

I did my own gun smithing and custom work with the exception of the grips. As follows:

1. Refinishing as previously stated

2. Loading gate beveled as it engages the recoil shield, as well as slight beveling of the "star wheel" area of the
recoil shield. This was done to prevent any possibility of the loading gate from catching on a case, or the star wheel hanging up as it rotates. Absolutely impossible to get a jam based on rotational problems. I DO NOT recommend you do any of this to your firearm unless you are certain that you know what you are doing. Never use a dremel tool ( worst tool imaginable to use on a gun - don't do it ! ). I used fine jewelers files and extra fine diamond stones.

3. Case head space from back of cartridge to recoil plate checked for .005. Note that I checked Speer Gold Dots, Hornaday Critical Defense and Winchester cowboy loads. The Hornadays checked at .006 which is acceptable.

4. I widened the barrel / cylinder gap to .006 to allow use of black powder loads and prevent possible hang-up from deposits ( this can also occur with modern loads that use relatively dirty powder or high round count - depends on manufacturer but it is rather rare. )

5. Beretta Stampede's version - wire bolt & trigger spring at medium tension. Note that the Beretta wire spring is much better than the overly light Wolff spring.

6. Wolff main / hammer spring that I highly polished. Also, removed the hand coil spring retainer screw. Use of the backstrap to hold the spring is sufficient.

7. Ridiculous hammer safety removed, and the absurd cylinder pin replaced with Colt pin.

8. Entire revolver stoned with special attention given to the hand channel.

9. Bolt micro-beveled on the left side where it leaves the lead; NOT on the right side where it locks into the cylinder.

10. Hammer trigger notch slightly deepened while maintaining positive angle. Trigger re-hardened. This gives a more positive engagement of sear to notch for added safety ( I am not involved in CASS. Revolver is used for defensive purposes. I do not want a light trigger ).

11. Did not angle the forcing cone to 11 deg. as I think that it is simply unnecessary. The bullet will correct itself as I allowed for some lateral movement of the cylinder. Use of overly tight cylinder pins are a big mistake, I could discuss the reason for this for hours on end ( i.e., Belt Mountain. etc... ).

12. Use Dextron automatic transmission fluid, and high heat / high pressure lithium grease.

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O.K. I guess that's it. Thanks for stopping by and reading my long winded post.

Gen Lew Wallace · November 17, 2012, 07:45:08 PM

That's a real fine looking hog leg pard. Almost too pretty to shoot. Almost.

Gen. Jackson · November 17, 2012, 07:53:34 PM

Quote from: Gen Lew Wallace on November 17, 2012, 07:45:08 PM
That's a real fine looking hog leg pard. Almost too pretty to shoot. Almost.

Thanks Gen.

I am in the process of uploading a few more but having some probs. even though they are less than 400 kb. Let's see if I can get this one up.

Gen. Jackson · November 17, 2012, 08:01:12 PM

O.K. last two worked fine. Here's the last one. The helmet is a sugar loaf Crusader knight's helmet that was hand made and authentic to the type that was worn by the Knights Hospitallers and the Knights Templar.

brazosdave · November 18, 2012, 08:59:34 AM

absolutely beautiful work!

Gen. Jackson · November 19, 2012, 01:09:26 AM

Quote from: brazosdave on November 18, 2012, 08:59:34 AM
absolutely beautiful work!

Thanks Brazodave.

Refinishing was the hardest part; trying to get the frame to be a semi-glossy gun metal grey. The mechanics was easy for me as I have been doing this for a long time.

TwoWalks Baldridge · November 20, 2012, 09:20:51 AM

General, another beautiful piece of workmanship. Would you be so kind Sir as to explain the two process for " I refinished the frame in semi-gloss gun metal gray ( the case hardening is still intact of course ), and the barrel bluing was softened in color. "

Like yourself sir, the internal parts I do well with the refinishing not so much.

Gen. Jackson · November 20, 2012, 01:58:59 PM

Quote from: TwoWalks Baldridge on November 20, 2012, 09:20:51 AM
General, another beautiful piece of workmanship. Would you be so kind Sir as to explain the two process for " I refinished the frame in semi-gloss gun metal gray ( the case hardening is still intact of course ), and the barrel bluing was softened in color. "

Like yourself sir, the internal parts I do well with the refinishing not so much.

O.K. to make a long explanation short, I used Mothers Mag Wheel Polish for steel and some bluing liquid. You have to be very careful as you can remove ALL the color of the case hardening and have bare metal. Doing this is not for the faint of heart.

When you polish the frame it does not do anything to remove the effects of the case hardening, it only removes the coloration. The case colors on Ubertis looks rather poor ( not anything like Turnbull case colors ).

I use my fingetips to gently rub the Mothers polish around the frame one time only , then wipe away with a soft cotton cloth untill the frame begins to shine and leave a dark shiny grey color. If you do this too many times, you will end up with a nearly stainless steel looking frame. If I make a mistake, I reblue around the part that needs it, then polish that area again.

Mothers was also used on the barrel approx. three times. The barrel is very deeply blued and dark black in color. The polish gives it a more bluish-black tinge, and not so "midnight" black in color.

All this takes practice and I do not recommend you doing it. I don't want you to "mess up" your gun. But I will say it looks alot better than Uberti's case color ( although it is real case hardening ).

The photos don't lie.

Thanks for asking.

TwoWalks Baldridge · November 20, 2012, 04:53:38 PM

Quote from: Gen. Jackson on November 20, 2012, 01:58:59 PM
O.K. to make a long explanation short, I used Mothers Mag Wheel Polish for steel and some bluing liquid. You have to be very careful as you can remove ALL the color of the case hardening and have bare metal. Doing this is not for the faint of heart.

When you polish the frame it does not do anything to remove the effects of the case hardening, it only removes the coloration. The case colors on Ubertis looks rather poor ( not anything like Turnbull case colors ).

I use my fingetips to gently rub the Mothers polish around the frame one time only , then wipe away with a soft cotton cloth untill the frame begins to shine and leave a dark shiny grey color. If you do this too many times, you will end up with a nearly stainless steel looking frame. If I make a mistake, I reblue around the part that needs it, then polish that area again.

Mothers was also used on the barrel approx. three times. The barrel is very deeply blued and dark black in color. The polish gives it a more bluish-black tinge, and not so "midnight" black in color.

All this takes practice and I do not recommend you doing it. I don't want you to "mess up" your gun. But I will say it looks alot better than Uberti's case color ( although it is real case hardening ).

The photos don't lie.

Thanks for asking.

General thank you for the instructions, you Sir are a Gentleman.