Loose Wedge, Pietta 1860 Army

Started by JP Anderson, July 24, 2012, 06:28:41 PM

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JP Anderson

The wedge on my Pietta 1860 Army has loosened up with use (400-500 rounds with FFF) to the point it must be fixed. It's never been a tight fitting wedge.

My question is which is best, fabricate a new one or order a replacement? I'm worried the new replacement won't fit any better than the original if it isn't a bit oversize. On the other hand a replacement will take a bit of fabricating if I include the retainer spring.

My plan is to install Kirst conversion but I need to fix the wedge issue first.

I've searched the forum in the past but it doesn't seem to be a common problem. TIA

JP Anderson
Havre, Montana

Abilene

JP, although I have never done so, I've heard of peening wedges on the flat sides next to the edge(s) to spread them a bit and make them a bit wider.  Depends on how hard the steel is (for instance, this would probably not be possible on an Uberti conversion because the steel in those is much harder, but on a percussion gun the steel is not as hard).   Worst thing that could happen is you ruin a wedge that isn't really useable now anyway.

Charlie Bowdre

JP
Now I'm no expert but I had the same problem withan 1860 Army. I cut a small piece of brass shim stock . Fitted it into the wedge and spring. It is still there ,I would say for a few hundered rounds. Worse thing is not droppping the dm thing when you knock put the wedge. Solution to that is more shim stock...or as I will some day order a replacement.
Enjoy
;) :)
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JP Anderson

I've tried peening the wedge. I'm an old hand with a hammer but it's a pretty hard piece of metal. I could remove the spring, anneal, peen, harden and temper but then I might as well make a new one. The barrel is soft in comparison.

If I do make a new wedge I'd take all free advice on how it should be properly fitted. The wedge is easy to fabricate till you need to cut the groove to refit the spring. I'm hoping a new one would be a bit larger.

I'm surprised a few more folks haven't had trouble. I bought this gun from Cabela's a few years back and the wedge fit but had no room for wear and tear.


Pettifogger

I solder a piece of shim stock to the side of the wedge.  I use Brownells Hi Force 44.  If you do it right the spring won't get hot enough to damage it.

John William McCandles

Quote from: Pettifogger on July 24, 2012, 11:30:40 PM
I solder a piece of shim stock to the side of the wedge.  I use Brownells Hi Force 44.  If you do it right the spring won't get hot enough to damage it.

Pettigogger, not to steal this thread but what do you use for a heat source when soldering using the Hi Force 44, a regular propane/mapp gas torch a jewelers torch or an oxy/acetylene set with proper welding tip?
Thanks
JW
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Pettifogger

Quote from: John William McCandles on July 25, 2012, 09:28:17 AM
Pettigogger, not to steal this thread but what do you use for a heat source when soldering using the Hi Force 44, a regular propane/mapp gas torch a jewelers torch or an oxy/acetylene set with proper welding tip?
Thanks
JW

Mapp gas

John William McCandles

Quote from: Pettifogger on July 25, 2012, 12:39:26 PM
Mapp gas

Any special tip or just what a person would use to sweat copper pipe? Sorry for all the questions but I am planning to do the Ruger spring conversion on my R&M copies as done in your articles.

JW
NCOWS #1792
SASS #963
STORM #59
Johnson County Rangers
The Old West Players
Alpine Outlaws (Inactive)
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Pettifogger

Quote from: John William McCandles on July 25, 2012, 01:18:08 PM
Any special tip or just what a person would use to sweat copper pipe? Sorry for all the questions but I am planning to do the Ruger spring conversion on my R&M copies as done in your articles.

JW

I have an oxy/acetelyne torch and have also tried one of the micro torches.  What works best for me (for Hi-Force 44) is a regular Mapp gas setup.  By the way, get the short fat tanks.  I don't know how many torch tops I've bent or broken when those tall skinny tanks tip over.


John William McCandles

Thanks for the information. I already have that type of mapp torch.

JW
NCOWS #1792
SASS #963
STORM #59
Johnson County Rangers
The Old West Players
Alpine Outlaws (Inactive)
NRA Life
NAHC Life
U.S. Navy Submarine Service Retired

JP Anderson

Thanks for the advice. I'll give the shim a try till I come up with a nicer fix. I'm an engraver and I plan on putting a bunch of time carving on this gun come winter. I'll probably make a new one for a long term fix.

litl rooster

Quote from: Pettifogger on July 24, 2012, 11:30:40 PM
I solder a piece of shim stock to the side of the wedge.  I use Brownells Hi Force 44.  If you do it right the spring won't get hot enough to damage it.

run a welded bead down the side and reshape it files and a belt sander
Mathew 5.9

rifle

A person could weld a dab of steel to the front inside of the arbor slot and file fit a new wedge. That would put the gun where it should have been in the first place. Make it fit to use factory replacement wedges from then on.
A person might first check to see how the arbor is bottomed or not bottomed in the barrels hole.......with the optimum being the bottomed arbor that Pietta's have from the factory or should.
A tight wedge may close the cylinder gap some and make it too tight. That can be cured by making a little space at the breech end of the barrel.
Anymore I like to make a wedge from tool steel so the wedge just comes flush to the off side of the barrel and that gives the most margin of error for some extra wedge to be tapped in later as the gun seats in from use. Or course I've a mill to make nice wedges since "the file" is a little more difficult to make a wedge. If a person wants the normal route and buy new wedges as needed then the spot of weld to the inside front arbor slot and a new wedge fit is the way to go.
I like making wedges since fitting a factory wedge after the arbor weld and ending with a good tight wedge as it just reaches the off side of the barrel is difficult at times getting the dang things started in. The wedges need started tight to leave the extra for future tapping in as the gun wears from use. Making a new wedge lets me make it longer to begin with and get it in easy and then tap it tight and seat it well then cut off the excess and finish the wedge length and insert the spring.

rickk

I used Hi Force 44 once to fix a mag release on a Thompson 1927.

I put it on a hot plate to get it up somewhere's near the melting point and then I used a fairly large soldering iron to actually melt and flow the solder.

No fire needed.

Rick

JP Anderson

Thanks for the advice Rifle. It was exactly what I was looking for.

JP Anderson

FYI Everyone. My loose wedge was caused by the arbor being few thousands short.

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