777 in 12 gauge Magtec Brass

[Pappy Myles]

I am a "novice in learning" of BP and Substitute Powder loading shotshells.  I have a lot of pryodex that was given to me, and over the course of 6 months, I've collected a bunch of magtech 12 gauge brass. This may have been discussed in the past somewhere.  I took a gander thru the post here back to page 66 and really couldnt find what I am looking for.
I have a TTN 12 guage Double gun.  1st outing with pryodex and I was pretty disappointed.  After reviewing my loads, I came to the conclusion of (1)  I wasnt getting a good enough seal on the felt wad, over powder was as it left the shell into the barrel (from more of a swoosh sound, than a bang) (2) I probably used too much pryodex ans I believe the wad was blowing thru the pattern.  The pryo worked well with my 45 colt so I figured it had to be my loading and not the powder.
2nd outing I loaded up a square load using a lee shot dipper set at 1 1/8 oz for pryodex, over powder wad from circle fly (10 guage) AA Winchester Wad, 1 1/8 oz #7 shot, over shot card, elmers glue.   Performance was much improved, and the knock downs went down.  My question involves 777.  A buddy of mine gave me a can of it and I've tried it in 45 colt and 38 special.  I like it.  my loads that I found (from here) performed as expected.  I'm looking at using 777 for shot gun.  I see anything from 3.7 cc, 4 cc, 4,7 cc from a lee cup with 1 oz to 1 1/8 oz.  Anyone with a TTN shotgun using magtech brass and 777 have any info they would like to share?  One thing I notice, when I use pryodex, (and 777) with the overpowder card, then the AA Winchester wad, I have a lot of room left over from the top of the shot to the end of brass.  What do you use as a spacer and where in the shell?
Thanks in advance

[joec]

So far I've only used Pyrodex RS but now out of it. Next round will be with a true black powder. I've use wads the following sizes Uses our 10 gauge overshot wads and 11 gauge Nitro and 11 gauge fiber wads as per Buffalo Arms suggestions. I've filled the ends over the overshot wads using white wood glue. Mine shot good with a nice tight pattern from a liberty (CZ) side by side, double hammer, double trigger model shotgun. Make sure you compress them good when loading and I've tried both lubed and not lubed wads with little difference that I see.

[Lefty Dude]

I use Circly fly cushion wads to bring the column to the proper length. They can be cut to length as necessary.

http://www.circlefly.com

[Pappy Myles]

Thanks Pards,

I have been using, all the stuff from circle fly. over powder wad, felt cusion wad, overshot wad.
I found that I had to come up with a cup for the shot to keep the mass of the pattern on target.  I tried reducing my load of powder, increasing, etc.  Pretty much all the same result with the TTN gun I have.  The most effictive I've found is a Winchester AA.  My plastic wad is directly on the nitro powder was.  Hmmmmmm   maybe the felt wad cut to length on top of the over powder wad, then the WIn AA wad, or perhaps using two over powder wads?

I'm rambling now, thinking out load.

[Tequila Jim]

My load is 4.0 Lee scoop of 777, 11 ga over powder wad, 11 ga fiber wad, waa12 shot cup, and I
beleive a 10 ga over shot card, glue of choice. All wads are Circle Fly. this works for me. Regards, TJ

[rickk]

There was a 3 part series on loading brass hulls in HandGunner magazine a few years ago.

While back issues of each issue are available ($10 bucks an issue), you can also order "Reloading Brass Shotshells" manual from BPI for $15 bucks which is actually the same three part series that was featured in HandGunner magazine.

There is a fair amount of good stuff in there, including lots of load data... mostly black powder data but even a little bit of smokeless data.

Rick

[Lefty Dude]

Thanks Pards,

I have been using, all the stuff from circle fly. over powder wad, felt cusion wad, overshot wad.
I found that I had to come up with a cup for the shot to keep the mass of the pattern on target.  I tried reducing my load of powder, increasing, etc.  Pretty much all the same result with the TTN gun I have.  The most effictive I've found is a Winchester AA.  My plastic wad is directly on the nitro powder was.  Hmmmmmm   maybe the felt wad cut to length on top of the over powder wad, then the WIn AA wad, or perhaps using two over powder wads?

I'm rambling now, thinking out load.

Your thought is correct on the cushion wads. I use one OPC, one 1/2" cushion wad, a plastic shot wad, & OSC. All you need is about 45 grains of BP or Pyrodex, don't know about 777. You will need the OPC tight for a good gas seal.

[joec]

I've used both Ox-Yoke and Circle Fly. I never used a plastic shot cup though. But then I've not been doing this very long.

[Fairshake]

I don't use nor have I ever loaded subs in any of my guns. Pyrodex will rust your gun very fast. The firing of real BP will give you a much better experience. All the subs do is produce smoke and real BP will have flames, sparks and smoke plus a much louder boom.
The biggest problem with the brass shells is that first time users believe that you have to fill the entire hull to the top and that is false. Most all my BP loads have as much as a 1/2 inch area from the top.
If you talked to the owner of Circle Fly he could get you started correctly. The inside of the brass hull is bigger than the plastic hulls of today and require the use of 11 gauge components. That is why you only received a swoosh sound as you had a improper seal. You need 11 ga. over the powder wads with at least 45-55 pounds of pressure and then your filler wad may cause a donut hole in the pattern if left at the 1/2 size. I cut mine in half. Add you shot charge and then the overshot card. I use a 10 gauge overshot card and then a mini- glue gun from hobby lobby to seal it. The smaller hot glue guns fit in the case and will allow you to lay in a nice looking weld type of glue bead.
They should be fired on paper so that you can see how your gun prints as each shotgun is different. You can't go by what the choke of the gun is as they will have a cylinder bore that will shoot a skeet bore pattern with certain loads. It's all trial and error.
The brass hulls will give you style points but they don't extract well if shooting a SXS. The 87 and 97 will shoot them but they will have to be had pulled from most SXS guns. At least That has been my findings out of my TTN. The process I posted is with the real BP and does not apply to the subs. I mix one pound of 2F with one pound of 3F and get great results.
All the stand by pards are always telling me about the flames and smoke rings from my gun.

[Lefty Dude]

I use a 10 ga. bore mop will a light coat of ballistol and swab out the chambers of my SXS every other stage. My brass shells fall out of the chambers. I use a light load of BP 3F, I suppose if you load 65-75 gr. of 2F you will get a tremendous back pressure of fouling that would make extraction difficult.

We are not shooting Geese or Ducks, only steel plates at a close distance. Any load over 50 gr's. is a waste of BP. When BP is not available I use pyrodex 3F. I prefer Goex 3F.

Brass shells iare all I shoot for CAS, 12's & 16's, both smokless and BP. I use SXS's and sometimes my Winchester 97/16.