Edge and top stitching

[Silver Creek Slim]

I'm making a bib shirt from a pattern Del sent me. Thanks again, Del. The pattern tells me to edge and top stitch. Can y'all tell me if these stitches are authenic fer the 1865-1899 time period? If so, when did they become "common"?

Slim

[Delmonico]

Can't answer for sure, but since that makes the shirt of better quality and perhaps more important, makes it look finer, I'd say that dates very far back.  This only requires a few extra minutes or so with a machine.  Most shirts in this time period were sew by machine at home or most were sewn in a factory.  (Remember Oliver Winchester was a shirtmaker in the 1850's or more specific he "owned a shirt factory" B.Tyler Henry worked in said factory repairing the sewing machines.  He of course turned the Volacanic Rifle into the Henry.)

[Silver Creek Slim]

That somewhat answers my question. I looked at shirts in my closet. Some have just edge stitching and some have both.

Slim

[Prof. A. Wickwire]

What is the difference between top stitching and edge stitching?

Thank you.

Sincerely,

Prof. A. Wickwire

[Silver Creek Slim]

As this picture shows, edge stitch is about 1/16" from the seam. Top stitch is about 1/4" from the seam.

Slim

[Delmonico]

Ok Slim ya rattled some of my cobwebs loose.      The 1870's pair of Levi's (the oldest known pair left) shows both types of stitching in the famous orange thread I am sure.  One must also factor in the fact that Levi's were for lower class laborers at the time.

I might make a trip to NSHS this week, there are some clothes on display that date to territorial times.  The climate controled vaults down stairs are full of them, but access is limited because of the climate control.

[Silver Creek Slim]

The pair of Levis I'm wearing has both. They measure 3/32" and 3/8" from the seam.

Slim

[Delmonico]

I bet the "stitch counters" never thought of that one.

[Silver Creek Slim]

I bet the "stitch counters" never thought of that one.

Slim

[Stina]

People were doing both edge- and top-stitching since way before the sewing machine!  I once hand-made a copy of a Swedish wedding shirt from 1843 which had flat-felled seams.  Hand backstitched, trimmed and turned and then hand edge-stitched, with the stitches on the original being at the rate of 10 to the centimeter.  I could only manage 7.....obviously the bride-to-be who made the shirt had the benefit of bright sunlight and younger eyes than mine!

Stina

[El Peludo]

Howdy, Stina, glad to have your expertise here.  Had to chuckle about the young eyes and bright sunlight remark - those things are sure a help.  I am finding myself seeking out brighter light to see by all the time, as well as magnification glasses, now.  Arrgh!

[Ozark Tracker]

To thread a needle, I need glasses plus a magnafiying glass.  My arms ain't long enough

[Stina]

If I may propose a non-period correct aid to stitchers--look at your local crafts/hobby store for something called "Mag-Eyes".  It's a headband-thingy that holds a lens out in front of you.  It comes with a couple of lenses, at 2.0x and 1.6x, and you can buy others.  Even works with bifocals!!  Not too pricey, either--under $30.

On the sunlight front, there are a variety of small lamps with 'daylight correction'.  Ott-light is the best-known and also most expensive.

Now, imagine, if you will, doing all this by kerosene and/or candlelight....

Stina

[Silver Creek Slim]

People were doing both edge- and top-stitching since way before the sewing machine!  I once hand-made a copy of a Swedish wedding shirt from 1843 which had flat-felled seams.  Hand backstitched, trimmed and turned and then hand edge-stitched, with the stitches on the original being at the rate of 10 to the centimeter.  I could only manage 7.....obviously the bride-to-be who made the shirt had the benefit of bright sunlight and younger eyes than mine!

Stina

I'm lucky to get 10 per inch. 

Slim

[Stina]

... with the stitches on the original being at the rate of 10 to the centimeter.  I could only manage 7.....obviously the bride-to-be who made the shirt had the benefit of bright sunlight and younger eyes than mine!

Stina

I'm lucky to get 10 per inch. 

Slim

It's just like shootin'--practice makes, if not perfect, at least better.  I've been sewing since I was a little tyke, so I've gotten pretty good. 

Patience helps, too.  Don't try to rush through anything.  DON'T start making a shirt on Friday for a Saturday shoot!

Stina