Reloading shotshells with steel heads vs brass

[Longshot Lil]

Howdy all,

My husband and I are new to CAS and to shotshell reloading as well.  We've been loading .38 special for a few months and we're just now getting set up for shotshell reloading.  We have the data sheets and have picked out what kind of load we want to do.  We'll be picking up the rest of our supplies this weekend.

In researching this subject, we've found conflicting information about loading "reclaimed" shells.  Some say it's ok to load the shells with the steel base, some say only do brass.  The argument was that the steel would expand with the heat from shooting and then get stuck in the gun.  If the steel would expand why do they use it at all in manufacturing factory loads?  Does this mean that the steel would expand over a few uses?  Would the steel shells be ok to use if they were only reloaded a couple times?

We'll eventually be loading 12 as well as 20 gauge.  We'd like some CAS "pro's" to provide us with some input on this if y'all would be so kind!

[cpt dan blodgett]

You will hear yes and no on this.  Some setups may not adequately resize the steel shell.  Case Gauges are a good investment.  Collette resizers generally can be set to size smaller than others if your reloader does not size shells that fit easily into the case guage.. 

Most folks will advise loading Win AA hulls or remington STS

Given the price of shot, I normally just buy the super sale federal game loads that get pretty cheap around the beginning of dove season.  After I polished the chambers of my SXS with green scotchbrite pad, the federals fall out almost as good as the AAs.

If you ever want to shoot in the balck powder categories you are pretty much forced to reload shotgun shells.

[Delmonico]

I've loaded them over the years, won't bother because most of them also have cheap plastic in them.  They use steel because steel is cheaper than brass.

[rickk]

A lot of the "brass" hulls are really brass plated steel anyway.

If it makes it thru the sizing ring in your shotgun press it is "sized", no matter what it is made out of.

Remember to use sizing lube (anti-seize compound) on every 5th or so hull.

If for some reason you find you are using excess force to size whatever ranging pickings you have run across, a MEC Supersizer will size ALMOST anything. Ironically, the once thing it won't readily resize is an all-brass Magtech hull. For those, the only thing that will work is the RCBS shotgun die set.  If I knew that before I got the MEC Supersizer, I would not have gotten the Supersizer and gone directly to the RCBS die set, which I eventually wanted anyway for Magtech hulls.

It is nice to have a set of small, medium and large hammers at your disposal.

[Grapeshot]

I've been reloading Black Powder in my shotshells on an off for the better part od 30 years.  When this issue of steel heads on shotshells came up, I found that the majority of my hulls, that I had been reloading, had brass plated heads.

So, there is no reason not to reload them.  I pick up at least a box or two of empties at every CAS event I go to because some folks just don't reload.

If it goes thru my MEC Jr's sizing die, I reload and shoot it.

[Longshot Lil]

Thanks for the thoughts, more are of course welcome!

I guess I should have noted that we have a MEC 600 jr Mark V for 12 gauge.  Don't have a press yet for the 20.  We found a bunch of AA shells at the range the other day, and will keep looking for those.  I tried the old "magnet test" on the side of them and the magnet didn't stick (but did stick to the primer).

I hadn't thought about the possibility of getting the shells at the CAS shoots!   

[Sir Charles deMouton-Black]

I've loaded them over the years, won't bother because most of them also have cheap plastic in them.  They use steel because steel is cheaper than brass.

I agree with Del;  It is the soft plastic that really causes problems reloading discount hulls.  If you load BP, they will almost always have pinhole burns.  If you try to roll-crimp them with a drill-press they will collapse.  For general reloading, they are good for only 2 - 3 reloads.  They don't seem to pop out of a double when you jerk it back either.

I found out that almost all R-P products reload well, accept roll crimping, last, and do pop out of my TOZ66 and Husqvarna underlever guns.

For my '97 for WB I shorten to 2 3/8" and roll crimp. (Gives me 6 without the ministrations of a gun mechanic!) For that, I use Old or New AA split-necks or almost any slug or buckshot hull. Fire & Forget!

[Jefro]

Howdy Lil, for CAS the pros are just use the brass base Win AA, Remington STS or Remington Nitro Gold. The Remingtons are the best, especially for shucking out of the side by side. I load only Rem STS for Heather, and I use up the WinAA with black powder. Win changed the hull design on the AA hulls a few years ago from a two piece compression-formed hull to a three-piece assembled hull. They may cause a ring about a third the way down, but it's no big deal. Also some of the old load data may require a shorter wad, but they are still a good hull. Here's part of an article from BPI.

The new AA-HS made in all gauges is NOT identical to the old AA. The move from a two piece compression-formed hull to a three-piece assembled hull is close, but no cigar. Red = yes. Height = no. Capacity = almost. The internal base, the new and third element in this hull, produces a deep-set "ring-around-the-collar." This collar must be taken into consideration with wad/powder heights. (The AA-HS hull needs it's own assessment and it is too much for this summary. Even vintage Winchester wads do not fit into this hull.) The WW-HA reloads nicely, but you have to change many of your old formulas. And do not expect the AA-HS hulls of any gauge to be marked. Sometimes it is a yes and sometimes it is a no. Use your flashlight.


A fine do-all hull for target is the Remington STS in green and the same hull in bronze, the NITRO 27. This hull is made in a number of gauges. There is no internal "ring-around-the-collar" and they reload sweetly.

The cons for steel is, these hulls have very different lengths, most are longer than the WinAA and Rem STS. Your wad/powder height for your favorite load will usually cause the crimp to be too deep. Plus these hulls are usually ribbed and may stick when trying to shuck them.
IMHO stick with the slick brass based WinAA or Rem STS, Nitro Gold. Good Luck


Jefro Relax-Enjoy

[Longshot Lil]

Remember to use sizing lube (anti-seize compound) on every 5th or so hull.

Would this be the case lube that is used with pistol/rifle brass or is there something different?  Do you put it in the hull or on the inside of the die?

Thanks LL

[Longshot Lil]

Roughly how many reloads can one expect to get out of a Win AA or Rem STS?  I know they'll need to be inspected each time, just wondering about how many is average for these.  Thanks for everyone's help!   

[Jefro]

Would this be the case lube that is used with pistol/rifle brass or is there something different?  Do you put it in the hull or on the inside of the die?

Thanks LL

Howdy Lil, I've never used antisieze on a hull, and don't know anyone that does. Check the owners manual for the machine you are using, you can download the Mec PDF from thier web site. Mec recommends using Antisieze (made by Locktite) at the collet, it (or a graphite impregnated grease) can be found at any auto parts store. I use Dry Lube on mine, it's a graphite lube suspended in alcohol. I prefer it over the greases because it's dry.

Roughly how many reloads can one expect to get out of a Win AA or Rem STS?  I know they'll need to be inspected each time, just wondering about how many is average for these.  Thanks for everyone's help!   

Depening on the load you can usually get 2-3 from the STS, and 1-2 with the WinAA. Once they get a little burnt I reload those once for BP. Good Luck

Jefro Relax-Enjoy

[rickk]

Longshot Lil,

Typically the lube used on shotgun hulls is not the same as on pistol brass. I have no idea if pistol case lube would work well or not. I have never tried it, I just use the stuff that MEC sells in the little tubes, or the stuff that Locktite sells at the auto parts store in big cans.

Jefro, I put a dab on the base of several hulls at once, and then grab a lubed hull after every 4 un-lubed hulls. When I resize the lubed hull it pushes the lube up into the sizing ring.  It seems to go faster for me than lubing the sizing die itself every few hulls.  It winds up going to the same place, but it seems to go faster by lubing several hulls at once.

[Longshot Lil]

Wonder if synthetic grease would work...the automotive kind.  Anyone try that (or is it the same thing you're talking about?)

[Jefro]

Jefro, I put a dab on the base of several hulls at once, and then grab a lubed hull after every 4 un-lubed hulls. When I resize the lubed hull it pushes the lube up into the sizing ring.  It seems to go faster for me than lubing the sizing die itself every few hulls.  It winds up going to the same place, but it seems to go faster by lubing several hulls at once.

Howdy rickk, I hear ya, each to his own. I load for two, I usually load a few hundred rounds before I reapply the Dry Slide. Good Luck

Wonder if synthetic grease would work...the automotive kind.  Anyone try that (or is it the same thing you're talking about?)

Howdy Lil, the Mec manual says other lubes to be less than satisfactory, but I'm sure any lube is better than none. I think they are counting on the antisieze greases to carry the graphite. Another lube Mec recommends is Outers Gunslick Grease AT 6. What machine are you using?? Do you have a manual for it??

Jefro Relax-Enjoy

[Longshot Lil]

We have a MEC 600 jr Mark V.  Yes, there is a manual, just haven't really studied it yet, but if it's anything like the one that came with our RCBS turret press for the pistol...it's about worthless.  LOL

[Jefro]

We have a MEC 600 jr Mark V. 

The Mec 600 jr. does not have a collet, so what I mentioned before does not apply, no antisieze needed. The manual for the 600jr is fairly straight forward and does cover each step throughly. Good Luck


Jefro Relax-Enjoy

[Longshot Lil]

Thanks for the info everyone.  We get the rest of our supplies tonight and hopefully during the week we'll get to start playing with our new "toy".  Going to the range with friends this afternoon to have some FUN!