ROLL CRIMP

[Noz]

I'm playing with roll crimping my 12 ga shotshells on a drill press, again.
Does anyone have a good way to hold the shells while the spinner crimps them?

[Fairshake]

Been doing mine for over 5 years now with the tool from BPI and my bench drill press adjusted to the slowest speed.
The small tool is expensive for what it does but I've never found a faster way. I can go to my press and use a drill table pair of locking clamps to hold the tool in place.
I never even have to turn off the machine as I just keep doing them as fast as I can pick the up and with one move they are locked in position.
I have heard of guys using the Mec size machine also but I load on a Sizemaster and don't need a different tool for sizing.
It also cost about $90 and the crimp devise is about $45
I tried using my hand and a hand drill but the drill press is better and faster. It only takes about 10 minutes for me to do 50 shells.

[Noz]

Fairshake, can you give me a link on that BPI device?

[hellgate]

I glue some fine sandpaper onto a block of wood. The sandpaper provides enough friction to prevent rotation of the shell as long as you hold it down. Here's two:

http://www.precisionreloading.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?

http://www.ballisticproducts.com/Roll-Crimping-Tools/products/128/

Mine doesn't quite look like these but works similarly. Scroll all the way down to the page bottoms as the pricing seems inconsistant.

[rickk]

Ballistic Products hull vise

http://www.ballisticproducts.com/Hull-Vise-includes-10-20ga-blocks/productinfo/VISE/



I also at one time used a MEC supersizer but the BPI hull vise seemed easier.

[Bottom Dealin Mike]

I use antique roll crimp tools. I have two of them...one cost $15, the other $19...they do it all. Very fast and easy.





They do a good job too...

[Tequila Jim]

I use a pair of vice grips, I think this particular set is designed to hold pipe.
                                                                          regards, TJ

[Dick Dastardly]

The MEC Super Sizer makes a great hull vise while it also does a great job of returning hulls to factory size.  I have one mounted under my bench top drill press and use it to crimp all my shot shells.  I have collets for .410, 20ga, 16ga, 12ga and 10ga as well as crimp spinning tools to match.  This system produces quick and easy flawless roll crimps.  I reload for several shooters and they really like the looks of the roll crimped ammo.

NO, I don't roll crimp all brass hulls with this setup.

DD-MDA

[Lucky R. K.]

Noz,

When you crimp with a drill press slowly ease the tool onto the hull and let a bit of heat build up in the plastic by the turning friction.  Then, slowly lower the tool to finish the crimp.  I do 10 gauge shells this way and hold them in my hand.

I agree with Bottom Dealing Mike that you should get an original roll crimper.  The old 12 gauge tools are available at antique shops, on ebay, and other junk stores.  You should be able to buy one cheaper that the drill press tool sold by BP. 

When I was looking for an original 16 gauge roll crimper(not very common) I found a guy in Winchester Virginia who restores and sells the old tools.  He is a good guy and was able to fix me up.

I don't know that there is any advantage to roll crimping other than the Style Points.

Lucky   

[Sir Charles deMouton-Black]

Advantage to roll crimping?  You can easily load shells to almost any length you wish.  You can even keep on loading the same case, but shorter each time, if the mouthes get ratty.

Cut plastic cases off at the base of the star crimp area, 2 3/8 inch., and roll crimp to get six in a '97 without fooling with springs.

[Noz]

I like the short shell and the short taper the roll crimper puts on the shell.
Easier for me to load and shuck.

[hawkeye2]

     Lucky R. K., who in Winchester, VA does the old reloading tools?

Thanks

[Noz]

One of the links above has a picture of a homemade vise that will work quite well. I don't remember which link nor how I navigated to get the pic.

[Grizhicks]

Try Brush Creek Armory (they are a division of Winchester Sutler, in WInchester, VA):
http://brushcreekarmory.com/

Also, I have some (about 700) once fire Winchester AA paper hulls, but having trouble getting them to roll.  Do I need to cut the old star crimp off first?

Thanks, Grizhicks

[Sir Charles deMouton-Black]

Here is an old thread on roll crimping.  It includes my post on the "jamb-roll", or "Hartin crimp" which can be accomplished on a regular press.  I use a MEC Grabber;

http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php/topic,20203.0.html

[Dick Dastardly]

I made me a hull conditioner on my lathe.  It "conditions" hulls from .410 - 10ga.  It's simply a 4" long cone with a 3/8" wood stem on the big end.  I chuck it in my drill motor, spin it inside the hull and presto!  Nice smooth hull mouth.  This works on fired hulls that had star crimps without need to trim the hull.

I also use this tool on paper hulls that were pie crimped.  It straightens 'em right out and makes getting a nice roll crimp real easy.

DD-MDA

[Sir Charles deMouton-Black]

Try Brush Creek Armory (they are a division of Winchester Sutler, in WInchester, VA):
http://brushcreekarmory.com/

Also, I have some (about 700) once fire Winchester AA paper hulls, but having trouble getting them to roll.  Do I need to cut the old star crimp off first?

Thanks, Grizhicks

I trim them to 2 1/2 inches first, and they roll fine. I cut to that length 'cause I have an old Husqvarna with the short chamber.

P.S;  The remaining cases mouths should be fairly neat before you load.  I have loaded some really ratty burn-barrel hulls by fitting a wooden dowel inside and rubbing the paper surface with candle wax.  Work it in by hand rubbing to warm the wax a bit. If you are using a press to prepare the cases, watch out for the decapping pin.  Sometimes it has a swell near the top intended to straighten out plastic crimp-stars.  On paper cases it makes a funnel-mouth that you dont want.  I had to get a 16 ga. decapping pin for my MEC Grabber before I got into production.  I found this out by starting to learn on some less-than-perfect cases so I wouldn't ruin the good ones.  You can actually get decent loads out of some surprisingly decrepit cases, if you are careful.  Trimming cases can be done easily.  You can buy trimmers from BRI, or get a piece of PVC pipe to fit the case and trim it so a box cutter run around the protruding mouth leaves you with the right length.  Practise.

[JimBob]

Some of the old hand roll crimpers had a square profile roll crimp instead of the commonly found rounded profile.Anyone ever try that type roll crimp?

[Lucky R. K.]

     Lucky R. K., who in Winchester, VA does the old reloading tools?

Thanks

Sorry to take so long to answer Hawkeye I haven't been close to a computer.  Brush Creek Armory is indeed where I got my 16 gauge roll crimper.  Very nice man to deal with.

I trim my 16, 12 and 10 gauge hulls to 2-1/2".  That length works best for the loads I use in them and the 10 gauge has 2-7/8" chambers.

Lucky 

[Lucky R. K.]

Also, I have some (about 700) once fire Winchester AA paper hulls, but having trouble getting them to roll.  Do I need to cut the old star crimp off first?
Thanks, Grizhicks

Sorry I missed that part of the question.  You should trim off most of the star crimp.  What I did was determine exactly the hull length needed to hold the load and then add just enough to roll over.  In my case it was just about 2-1/2".

Lucky