Load Sequence, different ways

[ballncap]

Let me start with saying I am new to the dark side. Every other shootin iron I have had has been cartridge so very much looking forward to this new twist in my sport 

At a resent Mountain Man exhibition here in Washington, I was chatting with a local 'guru'. His loading sequence for a BP revolver is:
1. Powder first
2. Ball next
3 Wad (Premium Lube Wad).

The logic being that the wad would stop crossfire better than a typical grease as when the gun gets hot the grease would melt to easily.

Everything I've heard so far has been Powder, wad, ball then grease.

Any opinions on this sequence?

[Blackpowder Burn]

Ballncap,

I load powder, lubed wad then ball.....shoot.......repeat.

If you have a wad under the ball there won't be any chain fires.  Between that and a properly sized ball (that shaves a lead ring when loading) there should be no way to get a chain fire from the front of the cylinder.

While I don't have the many years experience that a lot of folks on this forum do, I've been using this procedure for about 18 months, since I started shooting front stuffers.  I've had zero problems, and easy cleanup on the guns.

[Hedley Lamarr]

I an a newcomer to the dark arts, but I emulate several folks who have been doing this a loooong time.
Powder, unlubed wad, ball, top off with lube.

I've shot in 90 degree temperatures and never has the lube been too hot to even start to melt out of the cylinder.
I don't know exactly what is in my lube (buddy of mine makes it) but I suspect it has wax - it's very stiff, I use a flat wooden stick to spread it in.

[Pettifogger]

Powder, wad, bullet.  Never seen anyone do it the way you describe.

[Fingers McGee]

Powder, wad, bullet.  Never seen anyone do it the way you describe.

+1.  Been doing it that way for a long time.  Always thought lube over the ball was too messy and time consuming.

[fourfingersofdeath]

Powder, ball, fill rest of the cylinder with lube. I'm a bit of a beginner, but haven't struck any probs yet. I like the cylinder chockablock with lube, keeps the front of the gun coated and the barrel seems to like it as well. Most everything just wipes of when I'm finished.

If I was to lose my gun in a gunfight, it is comforting to know the pointy end is covered in a film of soft lube, lol (jest kiddin!).

[Steel Horse Bailey]

Mostly, I do the same: powder, ball, grease, cap, fire.

Also, I get good/better results but use more resources: powder, lubed wad, grease, cap, fire.


Just don''t do the: Cap, powder, ball thing.  You might have a boo-boo. 

[ballncap]

If I was to lose my gun in a gunfight, it is comforting to know the pointy end is covered in a film of soft lube, lol (jest kiddin!).

If you lose you gun im a gunfight.....I think you just lost the gunfight

[Crow Choker]

Also never heard of 'ballncap's' report of loading wad on top of ball. Always for years I did the powder, ball,  and grease method untill I discovered the ease and cleaner method of using wads. Now it's powder, greased wad, and ball fulltime. In the warmer months, I use a wad lube formula that results in a harder, drier wad. Cold month wads are a little softer to ease loading-to much lube in the wad in cold weather makes em' to stiff and hard.. In loading a cap and ball, I don't use the general accepted method of loading each chamber completely before doing another. I load all the cylinders with powder, seat a wad in each, and then a ball in each. Alot faster, less hassle, never any problems. Don't see any safety problems. Don't smoke, load around any fire, and take all due care. Don't use or care to have any off gun loaders either--enjoy loading them the way they were designed to be loaded. Something about ramming that ball via the lever into the chamber!!!!!!!!!

[Driftwood Johnson]

Howdy

I bought my first C&B revolver in 1968. Back then there were no prefab lube wads on the market. In those days I loaded powder, ball, then covered the ball with Crisco. That was pretty much standard operating procedure back then. And yes, the Crisco would regularly melt and dribble out of the chamber.

Once I discovered Wonder Wads I never used lube over the ball again. Powder, Wad, then Ball. That's what I do.

[Cuts Crooked]

One thing you REALLY have to remember..............POWDER FIRST!!!!!!!!!!!!   (don' ask.......... )

[pony express]

I always used crisco over the ball, I'm kind of cheap and the wads(at least in my local shop, cost as much as the balls. never had a problem with melting grease, but if the weather was too hot, I keep the tube it's in out of the sun.

[Cookie]

I always used crisco over the ball, I'm kind of cheap and the wads(at least in my local shop, cost as much as the balls. never had a problem with melting grease, but if the weather was too hot, I keep the tube it's in out of the sun.

Pre-made wads are expensive, but if you cut the wads yourself from sheets of felt, they're super-cheap. Just punch em out, soak them in your lube of choice, let em stiffen up, and you're ready to roll. All for a 1/100th the cost of Wonder Wads.

http://www.durofelt.com/image_26.html

[Dick Dastardly]

What in the wide world of sports are all the wads, over bullet smears and concern all about.  Simply put in powder and seat a lube/sized EPP-UG or DD-PUK Flat bullet and you're good to go.  And I do mean GO.  Go for an entire annual match with no need to clean yer guns to maintain accuracy or function.

For those that think they need to lube the cylinder base pins on their Remington Italians, look up the fine article in the CC by Silas McFee.  We ran a long torture test with his 58s and had NO foul out problems or accuracy problems when using either bullet.

DD-MDA

[cpt dan blodgett]

+1 for making you own you get about 50 per linear inch from 12 inch felt.  7/16 harbor freight punch works fine for 44s

I punch mine over an old plastic cutting board that developed rust stains, she who must be obeyed banned same from her kitchen.  Others punch into a soft lead billet, use the same punch to make cardboard wads for cartidges from Diet Dr Pepper cases.  Milk Cartons, the cardboard off the back side of tables are aslo great sources of free material.

[Deadeye Dick]

I punch the wads out of an old piece of felt I got from a friend. I think he got it at the fabric store. I use bore butter to lube them. Powder, felt wad, ball and you're good to go. You can purchase punches from Harbor Freight.

[Wagon Box Willy]

What in the wide world of sports are all the wads, over bullet smears and concern all about.  Simply put in powder and seat a lube/sized EPP-UG or DD-PUK Flat bullet and you're good to go.  And I do mean GO.  Go for an entire annual match with no need to clean yer guns to maintain accuracy or function.

For those that think they need to lube the cylinder base pins on their Remington Italians, look up the fine article in the CC by Silas McFee.  We ran a long torture test with his 58s and had NO foul out problems or accuracy problems when using either bullet.

DD-MDA

Dick, you should design a 200gr 45cal bullet that will do that in a Remington 1875....That might make even me start casting my own

[Lefty Dude]

I make the Wads from old felt Hats I find at garage sales or Good Will stores. Usually pay a buck or two for them. I can get 400-500 out of a large hat. I bought my punch from Buffalo Arms.

I load Powder, Wad, and ball. But if the temperature is high, like 100 or over the Wad goes on top of the ball. Either way works for me.

[Steel Horse Bailey]

Waggin' BoxWill - the BigLube boolit Dick refers to Will wok for an 1875 Remington.  However, you'll still need to wipe the front of the cylinder every other cylinder-full or so. 

Just buy or resize to .454" or whatever you prefer.

[Wagon Box Willy]

Steel Horse Baily, thanks.  I do use his JP200 and PRS 250 but neither of them work well in anything but humid weather.  If I have to take a cylinder out to wipe it I have to re-grease or it wont last more than a stage.

I am able to just get through 6 stages in the summer but once it starts getting colder and dryer I need to clean and re-lube.  My Remmies are only a couple of years old from EMF so maybe older ones perform a bit better.

I can get by with a spritz of Moose Milk but I hate making my guns and hands slick during the match so I don't use that method.

  Willy