Contact Cement

[Long Juan]

Dumb question of the day.  I have not used contact cement much.  I have recently used it to laminate a welt, to glue the seam of a holster before stitching and to laminate 3 pieces of leather to use below the shell loops on a shotgun slide.  Each time I have pretty much made a mess.  Ths stuff coming out of the scan is thick and I get sticky strings to everything I try to cement.  I have tried using thinner on the brush between dips in the cement can.  I have thinned the cement in the can.  Each time a make a mess, get glue where I do not want it and have ended up with spots that do not take my dye, etc.  I have watched Chuck Burrows DVD and like his idea of a separate can for the thinner and brush, and it seems that he gets nice, relatively thin spread, almost like paint.  Anyway, any hints you have for me will be much appreciated.  Thanks in advance. 

[Slowhand Bob]

I'm guessing you are using Barge?  For what it is worth, my suggestion would be to try Tanners Bond white glue.  I used Tanners Bond for years and just could not get the hang of working with Barge.  After all was said and done I did finally make the change some time back, on about my second gallon right now, but I do not see where it is a big deal.  Next time I buy, I would be just as likely to go back with the white glue as not.  I was equally satisfied with both products holding power but the white glue is easier to work with.  My only fears with white glue have been that it might turn loose if heavily water soaked or that it might not hold up on glued in metal liners but apparently that has not happened in either case yet yet???

[Boothill Bob]

Is there waterprof glue? I got some contact cement from the hardwerestore that works great........ Almost. If I stitch up the holster and submerge it in my walnut bath then it looks nice, but when it dryes the mainseem "splits" 

[Cliff Fendley]

Bob, Never had that problem using Barge. I've recently started using Weldwood also but havent tried it when using walnut dye. Guess I should try a scrap piece first.

[Boothill Bob]

Thanx Cliff. Guess I have to buy Barge then.

[CQMD]

Is there waterprof glue? I got some contact cement from the hardwerestore that works great........ Almost. If I stitch up the holster and submerge it in my walnut bath then it looks nice, but when it dryes the mainseem "splits" 

I would experiment with it some more before changing. I have used weldwood and some other glues from the hardware store and have found they work differently than barge. You have to have more glue applied, usually two coats and that you can't get into a hurry with it. It has to be dry to the touch before compressing the two side together. Once the process for that glue is figured out that they work great

Bobby R

[Slowhand Bob]

Something else comes to mind that you might try, do not use directly from your main source when using Barge.  Even the limited air contact while open does affect the quality of the glue pretty quickly and trying to keep it in balance with thinner is only of limited effectiveness.  I pour a couple of inches into one of Tandys large plastic jars with no brush on the rod.  I keep another like jar with plenty of of thinner with the brush attached.  Every time I go from the thinner to the glue I shake excess thinner out and then go to the glue jar with that tiny bit of remaining thinner. 

Since I am on a fixed income now  there is a need for being conservative with materials.  As the cleaning fluid develops snotty, stringy residue in the bottom of the jar I will carfully drain the cleaner into a fresh jar and clean out the junk in the original jar.  If for any reason the glue in the glue jar should become thicker than I can handle with just slight use of thinner I will dump it and clean the jar.  I have not had any luck with it when much thinner seems called for?  I tried to get it really thin, to a consistency similar to Tanners Bond but now accept that it does need to be a little thicker to be of the right consistency for me.  Mostly I spread with a heavy bristle brushes of a couple of widths but where much faster work is required I will sometimes use a stiff painters palette knife or a pastry knife.   Suede belt liners is one of the things that will dry glue faster than I can keep up with.

[Dalton Masterson]

I have been using the weldwood contact cement for a little while now. I have had no problems with it at all, and am  almost ready for my second can.
I keep it in the Tandy plastic bottle with the brush, and just fill it about halfway, and adjust the brush to just poke into the cement about 1/4" or so.
This has worked well for me.

I left the lid loose once, and it dried out enough that I had to let it dry fully. Then it was easy to get out by poking a screwdriver into it and twisting it onto the screwdriver. Thats why I only fill it half full now.
DM

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

  Bob , I think most the contact cement we use today works very well, and holds up well to wet conditions, even submerging in our dyes, but I have found that when using contact cement, I get better /perfect results if I TAP my cemented areas down with a smooth headed hammer,( but only when leather is dry and just after cementing) this helps to make a better bond and remove any air pockets that might still be under the leather, it's the air pockets that cause the leather to come apart if water gets in, Tapping YOUR SEAM LINE  and other cemented areas down stops this from happening. IMHO

            tEN wOLVES 

[Boothill Bob]

You have to have more glue applied, usually two coats and that you can't get into a hurry with it. It has to be dry to the touch before compressing the two side together
Bobby R

I will try two coats next time and let the first one suck into the leather before I apply the next one.

[Boothill Bob]

TWF, I use to tap it. Will try with some scrap leather. BTW, what does IMHO means? 

[Chuck 100 yd]

I use Weldwood also/ I buy it in the small bottles so it stays fresh. One small bottle will glue the seam on a bunch of holsters and yes, after it gets old you get those spider webs hanging off your brush. I pitch the bottle when it does that and start up with a new bottle.

[Drayton Calhoun]

TWF, I use to tap it. Will try with some scrap leather. BTW, what does IMHO means? 

In My Humble Opinion, Bob

[rickk]

I tried both cans and tubes, and Barge Cement in a tube is easier to deal with in my experience as far as getting it where you want it to go. 

The newer (blue) formulation seems to separate somewhat when being stored, so flip it over once in a while so you don't wind up with too much runny solvent.  It takes a bit more work to use than the yellow (that can still be gotten in a can, but not a tube), but it is easier on the lungs and liver.

[TN Mongo]

I have used Barge contact cement successfully for several years.  When I ran out the last time, the manager at the local Tandy Leather Factory told me that he actually preferred the Tandy brand Tanner's Bond (made by Barge-marked on the can).  He was told that it is a more up-to-date formula that holds better.  After using it for a while I have found that it dries a little quicker and does seem to bond a little better.  I'm not bad mouthing regular Barge, it also works well. 

I tried using the Tandy plastic jar with the adjustable brush, the glue seemed like it dried-up in the jar pretty fast.  Instead, I bought the small 8oz. can of the Tanner's Bond and I keep refilling it with the larger size when it runs out.  My biggest complaint is trying to keep the glue off the threads on the top of the can.  Sometimes I have to use a channel lock pliers to get the lid off the glue can.

[outrider]

The simple solution to the problem with the threads on the container tops...buy some glue thinner and wipe down the threads after each use...the thinner is available at the Leather Factory and is manufacturer specific.....I know exactly what Mongo goes through...been there done that many times....now not so much of a problem.

The Barge cement is also being phased out and being replaced with a new formula without toluene...The new Barge comes in a blue colored can.

EPA....wish that organization would get washed down a sewer...they are also the reason we have to pay so much for leather and the reason we don't have many tanneries anymore...and are stuck with alot of junk leather from other countries....GREEN ya know...

[KidTerico]

I have been useing barge for a long time and it works great. For the last year or so I am useing Weldwood also, like Dalton has said but I use it in the GEL form and like it a lot better than the liquid. No problem with drying in the can and does not RUN. KT

[ChuckBurrows]

The simple solution to the problem with the threads on the container tops...buy some glue thinner and wipe down the threads after each use

a suggestion - rather than wiping down each time, clean and then use some vaseline on the threads - works great and as lon as you don't overload the threads with vaseline it won't get on the brush.

Bob and othersre: tow coats, etc. - Apply in thin coats (2 sometimes 3) and allow to dry - hold the piece up and if the whole area to be glued looks glossy you are good to go - if any dull spots (i.e. not glossy) than re-aaply and let dry. By using thin coats the glue gets down into the fibers and you will get the strongest glue job.

FWIW - While I have used Barge, Tanner's Bond and about every other kind of contact cement I use Weldwood most of the time now and have far less problems with it gettng stringy. Also while many will tell you Barge is the best because it was formulated for leather work - it in fact was not. What it was originally formulated for was gluing on shoe soles...just little factoid for the day 

[Long Juan]

Thanks all.  I think I may just have some cement that has thickened as it got older.  I plan to get a new can and will try Chuck's two-can method (have seen described on his DVD and also in a posting online) - one for glue and one for thinner and the brush.  Have been using thinner on the threads, but will try vaseline on the new can.  Heard that one at Tandy's this past weekend as well as in Chuck's posting.  Also may try some disposable brushes so I will not be using the same one over and over, but first Chuck's two-can method.  Thanks once again to all who commented. 

LJ

[Cliff Fendley]

The Barge quart cans are the same as the PVC plumbing glue and cleaner comes in.

I use a ton of this stuff in my real job so I dumped a new can of PVC cleaner over in an old one in order to get a brand new clean can.

The lids interchange too so I refilled the new empty can with the barge thinner and I keep my brush screwed into that can and keep a plain lid on the barge.

This way my brush always gets cleaned after use in the thinner. I only dip the brush deep enough into the can to get what I want and it's not all over the stem of the brush dripping everywhere but where you want it. This way the can threads don't get glue all over them either.

After Chucks suggestion I started trying Weldwood recently and so far have had good results and think I prefer it to barge.