Grip finishing

[Delmonico]

Yeah, that grit would be hard on a plane iron. (See I remembered planes don't have blade, they have irons.)

Shellac gives the polished finish to some kinds of candy.  It comes from one end or the other of the Lac Insect from SE Asia.  It is also what real hat stiffener is.

Here is the wash stand, a nice little piece.



I've also been reading up on the old milk paints, looks pretty simple except I need to figure out some pigments or everything will be off white.

[Professor Marvel]

Greetings once more Good netizens -

Hurrah!!!  I see we have achieved THREAD HIJACK!!!!

Del -
Nice find on the Jack plane - is it a flat or corrugated sole? I really must dig mine out of the moving boxes and tune them up.

I trust you will be burning the "shavings" rather than the SAVINGS, I realize the economy is bad, and all. but still .....

Del, You may now join the card-carrying ranks of Old Phart Luddites. I shall put you on the list for a membership card.
There will be a wait as there is just a bit of preparation required to get the new cards out - 
I need to kill & skin the sheep, prepare the vellum, make a new batch of ink from lamp black, cut some new Goose Quill
pens and then I can proceed.

The Cards should be out sometime in the next Lustrum by foot-messenger.


Del & Coffin -

Instead of varnish finishes, which do tend to smell for quite a bit due to the linseed oil, I have switched exclusively to shellacs
which are fairly durable (as long as one uses a coaster) and very easy to repair. They are very non-toxic and very easy on anyone with  chemical sensitivities.


Ten WOlves & Curley -

Thank you for more eye-candy!!! ... it is most appreciated!
nice original M&H ... and you have it in hand, too!

-----

Regarding Milk paint, I had been looking into it as a non-toxic, quick drying alternative to conventional Indoor Paint
(until Lowes came out with the NO VOC paint line!)

It seems that pigmentation of Milk Paint  is a bit of trial and error, some folks use commercial paint pigments, some use dried Tempra, some seem to use RIT dye,  some use all natural materials like different ground earth, or berries!. Some even add boiled linseed oil for further durability, but that would make it all stinky again...

I understand one can also add milk curd (or substitute cottage cheese!) as a thickener/opague - ener and to add durability.

Don't forget "milk plastic" was one of the *first* plastic materials, and has been/still is used for costume jewelry of all things.

BACK ON TOPIC
but I would not recommend Milk Paint, Shellac, or Jack Planes on pistol grips.


yhs
prof (babbling) marvel

[Delmonico]

OK thank you Professor, after some study and research I found a good easy formula for milk paint, but the same website wants what I consider a steep price for pigment and they are in reality both cheap and as close as the grocery store.  The good thing is I work more evenings and I am home a lot during the day so as long as I use it right up I won't have to explain to my wife what I'm doing.  I may have to sneak an extra ice box into my shop area so I don't have to tell her not to drink the blue or red milk in the ice box.

The jack plane has a smooth sole. 

As for thread hijackings it might be interesting to start a thead just to see where it would go and the information we could pass along. 

[Delmonico]

Oh as a further from the original post, tommorow when I'm not so tired I will tell you how to remove the plating from hidges and screws, real screws with slot heads, I found a source and they also have machine screws with slotted heads and square nuts to fit them, sadly they are plated and have to have a bit extra time spent on them.

[wildman1]

As for thread hijackings it might be interesting to start a thead just to see where it would go and the information we could pass along. 

Might be interestin ta start one and see how long it takes ta get back ta the original (without proddin). WM

[Delmonico]

Might be interestin ta start one and see how long it takes ta get back ta the original (without proddin). WM

I did.

http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php/topic,40234.new.html

[Popa Kapoff]

Ok so if I use a little stain will this make the grip fell like it has a poly finish  or just like naked wood. I used the Tru-oil and I like it a little darker. So I was going to add alittle stain then Tru-Oil again.

[Indian Outlaw]

I use either Watco Danish Oil - Medium Walnut, or Formby's Tung Oil Finish - Low Gloss, after stripping the stock finish with paint stripper. The Watco is an oil/varnish mix, while the Formby's is actually a wiping varnish (not an oil finish). The product labeling is deceptive.

Watco Danish gives a "dry" finish that looks great and feels good in the hand but doesn't protect much at all.

The Formby's Tung gives you a finish that more closely resembles 19th Century Colt grips. It protects a little better.

[WaddWatsonEllis]

Hi,

All this filibustering for the favorite grip finish has me feeling a bit dizzy ... not ditzy but dizzy.

They have this stuff that they use on working boats in Scandinavia ... kinda like a half linseed oil/half polyurethane ... called Deks Olje
(pronoinced decks olay).

It is put on by simply putting on layers (keeping the outside layer wet) until the grain is covered ... then let it sit until it hardens ... and if one wants more of a varnished finish than a oiled finish, it can be wet sanded and a Deks Olje #2 can be flowed on .....

I used to leave it on an old boat I had down in the Delta, where 18 hours of sunlight and temps exceeding 115 degrees were the norm ... and it was the only thing that would hold up to the climate ....

So when it came to refinishing my gun-that-never-was .44 cal '51 Colt, I used a bit I had left ... and here it is several years later:



And her is a  pic of the container: