Is there such a thing as a reliable, easy to use capper?

[rickk]

Sacramento Johnson,

http://www.possibleshop.com/s-s-cappers.html

Pedersoli  Remington Pattern Capper



Rick

[rickk]

I just ordered Pedersoli Remington pattern capper.

I checked what I do have, and besides a Cash in-line capper, I also have a Pendersoli Colt pattern capper. Neither work well on the 1858.

I will report back when the Remington Pattern capper arrives.

Rick


side note: I am seeing "TC" used here possibly referring to both Thompson Center and also Ted Cash.  We need to call one of them and see if they can change their name. Thompson Center is "S&W" owned now anyway. Maybe they get the first phone call. It's a local call for me to S&W anyway  ;-)

[rickk]

BTW, I modified a Ted Cash inline capper a couple years ago to make it work reasonably well with the 1858.  It only took a couple minutes with a bench grinder to make it all happen.  I had an email exchange with Cash Manufacturing about this modification, and even sent pictures of it to them, but it didn't go anywhere.

Anyway, here are some pictures of the result :






Note that the caps are stacked on top of each other now instead of side by side.

Rick

[Sacramento Johnson]

Hi Rickk,
I'm not familiar with the ted cash inline capper.  What exactly did you do to it to turn it into that pictured remmie capper?

[Cuts Crooked]

This might be of interest:

http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php/topic,1620.0.html

[rickk]

S.G., all I pretty much did was grind the and of the capper that holds the caps to remove the two "paws" that normally hold the cap being installed, as well as remove a bit of the lip on the end of the square tube that normally pushes the cap in place. If you hold a capper in your hand and look at my picture it will all make sense.

Then I loaded it "wrong" so that the caps lie end to end instead of side by side.

[Sacramento Johnson]

Hi all!
Thank you Rickk!
Cuts Crooked- thank you for the link.  I actually read about your misshap and Old Scout's endeavors on the Brimstone Pistolero's web site.  I made a dowl rod with a leather covered tip to seat caps on all my cap firearms after that!

[rickk]

A Pedersoli  Remington Pattern Capper showed up yesterday and I tried it this morning on one of my Uberti 1858's.

Like the Ted Cash capper, there is no way one can slide the capper out of the cylinder slot with the end cap over a nipple.

I also tried angling the capper up a bit so that it did not have to come out thru the slot. When I did that the "next cap" in the tube fell out every time.

I tried this capper on a cylinder that has been opened up and had problems with the "next cap" falling out as well, even when I pulled it straight out from the side.

Score = "F"

It still seems that the only capper that can work well is a style that goes straight into the nipple rather than going in thru the slot.

The manufacturers aren't addressing this problem. The nipple slot is to small to get to the nipple thru it. Why do they still insist that the cappers that go thru the slot are "remington cappers" if so many people are having problems with them?  The solution to not getting the capper stuck in the slot is to not use the slot, but to go straight in from the back.

Damn, I wish I could find a big stash of the old cappers. At least I have two of them, and there is the modified Ted Cash inline that I made that works pretty good too.

[rickk]

ordered something else... let's see how much money I can waste.

Damn, the ones that worked that aren't made any more were only about 5 bucks each.

[Noz]

I don't understand. A single pass with a Dremel tool with a 1/4" sanding drum down each nipple slot in a Remington cylinder removes about 1/16" of metal from each side of the slot and all of the capper woes are gone. Even the wonderful snail cappers will work well.
Is it just that you enjoy the pain in the butt that you endure with the unmodified Remingtons?

[wildman1]

No sir did not like that at all, NOZ. Thats why I did the NOZ-MOD.  WM

[rickk]

Ironically though, modifying the cylinder just ain't needed with the proper capper, which is no longer made.

I just am resisting the urge to dremel away at a cylinder when the real problem is that the capper manufacturers just don't care to fix the problem on their end. As my pictures showed, there is a solution... a capper that is no longer made that worked well.  The manufacturer's need to address this.

In the mean time, I am going to maybe find a capper in current production that does work to put the other cappers to shame. Shame does wonders for improviing a product. 

Rick

[rickk]

Well, I now have a few Thompson Center "Star-7" cappers in my possession.

Mixed feelings so far.

At first, I thought they would not work at all, but maybe they need a little use to "break them in". On the flip side, does that mean they will wear out just as quickly as they wear on?

I dunno, but I will play with them a bit.

Rick

[ZVP]

 Do cappers "crimp" the cap at all? My problem has been no matter what brand of caps you buy, it's inevitable that you will get a loose fitting cap that will fall off at the worst time!
This is why I gave up after purchasing several different Cappers.
Even the Ted Cash model looks as though it does not crimp the caps.
When I put the caps on individually and pinch em they stay put. I suppose this is the way of the future for me?
ZVP

[wildman1]

Get caps that fit the nipples yer usin. Or get nipples that fit the caps yer usin. Check some of the past threads like in the Dark Arts. UNLESS ya like unexpected booms. Ya should not be crimpin yer caps as it will leave gaps. WM

[Montana Slim]

Get caps that fit the nipples yer usin. Or get nipples that fit the caps yer usin. Check some of the past threads like in the Dark Arts. UNLESS ya like unexpected booms. Ya should not be crimpin yer caps as it will leave gaps. WM

This is the ticket......

My method has been to make the cone (nipple) fit the caps I use...specifically, CCI #10's for my Uberti revolvers and CCI #11s for my Pietta revolvers. I select appropriate candidate cones from my "stash", then reduce them (when needed) to fit. Amazing what you can do with a power drill, some emory paper, files etc and a little patience.

BTW, I also have one of the mystic Italian in-line cappers from the 1970s that pushes the cap straight-on the cone. Works great...and I bought mine from a drugstore for about $1.99....I'm down to my last tin of Rem #11 caps cost a $1.50, too (not including sales tax).
Still have some "Dixie" caps, too.

Sorry, the capper isn't for sale...but, there is hope....it will be part of my estate someday.

Slim

[Slowhand Bob]

Here is what I have figured out, my old style  brass Hornady large primer pick-up tube will pick up caps and hold them very well.  All that would be required to convert this to a straight in-line capper will be a plunger rod with a small button or ball on the end.  No doubt this will not allow enough pressure to securely seat the caps but I have always been one to go back over them with an antler point anyway.  I have not yet checked with Hornady to see if this style pick-up tube is still available, any other brands that still use the brass tubes with slits for primer pick up? 

My biggest problem is that I do not think this would be practical on lengths of brass tubing much longer than would accommodate around six caps and the rest of the expensive tube would be wasted.  If there were a way to duplicate the tiny slits on the pick-up end then several could made from each pick-up tube.  The best idea so far has been a Dremel cut-off disc but even this would be much wider slots than what came from the factory??  I will try to find pictures from the person who originally posted the idea and scan them in, it had been my hope that he would spot this and join in.

[Rototiller]

Sorry, new guy here, a greenhorn? Any way I purchased a Cash snail and inline capper last week. I loaded the snail with #11 caps for my Pietta 1851 Confederate and the Rogers & Spencer needs #10 so I loaded them in the straight line capper. The snail capper seems to work just find, I had one or two turn sideways but worked great. Now the inline, getting the cap in the spring jaws is nothing but a pain. There seems to be areas in the body that the #10's hangup in, my thumb is too sore to push the caps into the spring arms anymore so I must take a pen and push a cap into place by sticking the pen into a cap a few places behind the black steel area, if you see what I mean. Before I bend the spring arms is there something I can do. I did get the steel end off and filed the brass a bit but it didn't make that much difference.

Donald

[Lefty Dude]

Does your in-line capper have a wire lanyard loop on the rear end of the capper ? If so pull back the brass follower knob, place the wire lanyard loop over the knurled brass knob. this will hold the spring & follower back so you can place the caps in the filling window.

If no lanyard loop, on the rear of the slot channel there may be a hole for the brass knob to be placed when the spring follower is pulled to the far rear position.

This should ease the Finger sores. Hope this helps

I just Love new C&B Remington revolver shooter who buy from cabella's. They always buy a snail capper. When the Snail Capper is returned for credit .  It goes to the Bargain Cave. I usually buy 1/2 price for a Cash Capper.

[hellgate]

rototiller,
It looks like you have the capper loaded wrong. The caps need to be loaded cup side up so you can see the inside of each cap. The capper then is applied at a 90 degree from the nipple not end on like you have in the photo. Great photo BTW.