holster metal lining question

Outlaw Gambler · June 19, 2011, 04:39:31 PM

I am going to make a holster that will require metal lining in it to help hold its shape in the loop that goes over the belt. I want to form it so that it stays away from the body and is more contoured to the hips. What is the best material to use for this lining? I assume it will be some sort of tin, but I don't know for sure. Also, is there any place particular that it can be purchased? Thanks for your help.

Ten Wolves Fiveshooter · June 19, 2011, 05:42:01 PM

Howdy pard

Not sure what type metal they use for that, I have several rigs that were made that why, but that was before I got into leather, maybe one of the other pards will chime in on this.

And Outlaw Gambler, Welcome to our forum pard

Regards

tEN wOLVES

Marshal Will Wingam · June 19, 2011, 07:09:15 PM

Howdy, OG. I would think that 24-20ga mild steel sheet would work great for that. I've never done it, but that's where I would start. I'm sure one of the pards who puts metal liners in holsters will be better qualified to answer this.

Welcome to the forum, looking forward to your posts.

JD Alan · June 20, 2011, 03:49:53 AM

That's just what I used, and I've made two sets so far. I was a little concerned about the glue sticking to the metal rather than the leather, but it wasn't a problem.

Ned Buckshot · June 20, 2011, 04:39:22 AM

Howdy Gambler!

I used the galvanized sheet that's the same stuff as heating ducts are made from. I got it at Ace hardware for a couple bucks.

Take care Pard!

Ned

outrider · June 20, 2011, 07:19:39 AM

I am quite sure he will chime in here later...but Tenn. Mongo, uses aluminum sheets to line his holsters....hobby store or hardware store

Jamie · June 20, 2011, 08:48:37 AM

Having some issues with carple-tunnel, and no, I obviously don't know how to spell it, I wear wrist braces at night. (Coupled with my breathing machine mask, I no longer have to keep a gun in the drawer by the bed, I would scare any intruder to death on sight!)
Anyway, the braces encased in the "mitten" - sewed under panels of nylon webbing are aluminum, and work really well. They're fairly thick. I was wondering about doing something like this, and was worried that ungalvinized steel might rust, especially if any wet forming was done. Any observations?
Jamie

Boothill Bob · June 20, 2011, 12:33:09 PM

I want to have some instruction video or pics on metal lining. Will try to make a metal lined holster
sometimes. Whats 24-20ga? We have the nettovinst system here $:-\$

Slowhand Bob · June 20, 2011, 01:32:31 PM

I have lined at least a half dozen of my competition holsters in the past and used 24ga galvanized steel, as purchased from the hobby metals at Home Depot or Lowes. Im thinking this was two or three years back(?) and I have not been out to the shop much since but do have a large sheet of 22ga stainless waiting there for me to visit (I wanted 26ga but had to settle??). I consider the hand cutting and shaping of the metal to take more time than all other holster construction combined, excepting hand done decoration and it is dangerous for the fingers. For my pattern the metal was anchored in four locations and the metal had several holes to aid in compound folding areas and for a couple of glue through spots (necessary??). If I were going to do this commercially I would definitely seek outside help from sheet metal workers to find ways to speed up the process but the holsters looked good and seem to be performing good service based on feedback. I suspect the larger shops use metal punching and forming machines to cut and shape quickly.

Outlaw Gambler · June 20, 2011, 09:43:43 PM

Thanks Slowhand Bob, I had not thought of how to get the glue on both pcs of leather.

Matter of fact I assumed that by sewing the edges it would hold the metal in place. I can see that I will have to reconsider exactly how to place the metal, holes for glueing, and bending the top. I am hoping to only do two holsters for my wife. Let me ask you one other question, is the best method for using the metal in the leather to glue it and then sew the two pcs of leather together, let it dry and then bend and mold it? Thanks for your advice.

GunClick Rick · June 20, 2011, 10:19:00 PM

I think Mernikle leather does those..
http://www.mernickleholsters.com/bm_fastd.html

LoneRider · June 20, 2011, 10:22:49 PM

IMHO if you make the holster right and wet-mold it you don't need metal, Kydex or rawhide!

Cliff Fendley · June 21, 2011, 06:43:28 AM

Quote from: LoneRider on June 20, 2011, 10:22:49 PM
IMHO if you make the holster right and wet-mold it you don't need metal, Kydex or rawhide!

I kinda feel the same way. A couple of my friends used to do fast draw and I've looked at their metal lined rigs. Good high quality carving leather wet formed will do the same thing without the metal lining. Especially if you double the leather with a couple layers of 8-9oz which appears to be the same thickness of the lined ones anyway.

The right kind of high quality leather is the key though.

outrider · June 21, 2011, 07:29:20 AM

I also agree with Cliff on this one

Slowhand Bob · June 21, 2011, 09:21:25 AM

The question marks I placed concerning the extra holes indicates my lack of conviction as to the necessity of this step, so far the glue has held the leather to the metal on both sides. The one hole that I really feel was necessary was the larger hole that was placed at the point where my bend was a compound that transitioned from the rounded tunnel entrance at the throat to a bend going back to form the stand away belt loop. I think the first pair I made used Tanners Bond while Barge was used on the rest. The metal liner anchor points were a pair of Tee-nuts through the holster body and the matching holes at the belt fold over bottom, these were all skirtless designs.

I do my dyeing first and the construction glueing/sewing while still flat and do not form metal area until right before wet molding. Not sure but I feared alcohol in dye might damage the metal to leather glue bond, though it has never affected leather to leather bonding in the past? I agree with those who say you can make holsters that are just as stiff by using heavier leather laminations or rawhide for construction BUT there are a large number of shooters who want a more rigid liner installed. I never go above 8/9oz over 4/5oz for my holsters but have made some that stood well out and they held the shape for years. Normally I use 6/7 over 4/5 for a lighter weight competition rig and this was what I put the metal in. If I ever get back out to the shop I will post whether the heavier gauge stainless will work or not but I do prefer the stainless over galvanized when possible. I have found a source for the stainless tee-nuts if anyone is interested.

TN Mongo · June 21, 2011, 11:40:52 AM

As Outrider stated, I have used aluminum to line (from Lowes or Home Depot) several holsters. I run the aluminum the full length of the skirt and down the back side of the holster pocket. This allows the shooter to adjust how far the pocket of the holster stands away from the body. My holsters are very heavy and do not need any metal around the mouth to keep them open.

I glue in the aluminum with Barge cement and the metal is 1/4 - 1/2 short of the stitching holes. I have also lined the holster slots of buscadero belts with aluminum to help keep them from sagging. That also works very well.

Slowhand Bob · June 22, 2011, 07:47:32 AM

TN, what weight aluminum are you using, I really fear that the stainless sheet I have is going to be to heavy to work with. The guy at the sheet metal shop gave me a really good deal on what would be a large sheet, for my use, and I couldnt resist. I would also like others opinions on the use of galvanized metal for leather, I have some stuff out there that has galvanized tee-nuts, etc for many years and liners that are perhaps three years old and no problems, yet. I just can not get past how quickly galvanized can break down under some situations that would seem less taxing than strong glues and tanning chemicals.

TN Mongo · June 22, 2011, 04:23:39 PM

Slowhand,

I just walked into the shop to look at a piece of the aluminum; the sticker says .025 aluminum sheet. I cut it with a small bandsaw and then I knock down the edges with a file before I glue it between the holster and the lining. One shooter has a buscadero rig with aluminum in it around the belt slots that I did seven years ago and it is still fine. The first time I used it in a holster was about 3 years ago and I shoot with that fellow at least twice a month. He's had no problems with the holsters. I've done several more since then and I haven't had anyone bring one back with a problem.

Outlaw Gambler · June 23, 2011, 07:19:03 AM

After reading everyones posts I think I will do the holsters in good double leather and see how they turn out. Mainly interested in keeping the top of the holster out a little from the hip for easier re-holstering. I normally use double 6-7 ounce veg tanned leather and if I wet mold the top of the skirt and the bend that goes over the belt it may do as good as metal lining and a lot easier. Thanks to all that replied.

Slowhand Bob · June 23, 2011, 08:12:28 AM

A great pattern for the competitive shooters is Will Ghormlys Black Canyon holster. This uses an 8/9oz with a 4/5z liner is what I think it calls for. It is a slight bit large for Colt sized guns but but if you put a closely spaced double row of stitches down the main seam and a thinner filler it will work great without the need for resizing. Ill see if I can find a photo of a pair I made several years ago, pictures actually might be searchable on here??