Neatsfoot oil blotchy absorbing even when careful. Normal?

[Tallbald]

I made my wife a nice embossed flap holster for her Single Six, and was as careful as I could be to keep any contamination off of the leather. I did gum trag the edge before oiling, but even areas not tragged are blotchy. Some improvement after hanging in  the sun, but still blotchy. I had used tea to stain,  but don't think that would do it. Makes me love my vinegaroon even more (besides preferring  Basic  Black to begin with). Is this usual? Thanks everyone, Don.

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

   Don, that can happen, if it doesn't blend in after 24 hours, try another light coat, I find my best results are doing two to three light coats to get the look I'm after, hope this helps.

        tEN wOLVES 

[TN Mongo]

I've had problems with blotchy spots from neetsfoot oil and sometimes dye.  I've come to the conclusion that the better the leather I use (like Wickett and Craig) the more consistant the finish.  I use to like to use pre-cut belt strips from Tandy to save time.  I've quit doing that because of the problems you have described.

[rickk]

Neatsfoot oil will spread with time.

What does "blotchy" mean in this case? Is it insufficient coverage in spots?  If so, do like 10 Wolves says and add more. Leather can hold an amazing amount of neatsfoot oil.

If blotchy means too much in some spots, it will spread itself out over a week or two. It is pretty hard to use too much.  I never saw any reason to be careful with neatsfoot oil. I put a couple of heavy applications on about a day apart.

How many days have passed since you put the neatsfoot oil on?

Rick

[Johnny McCrae]

What do you use to apply it with? Initially I use my fingers and then a well soaked rag for subsequent coats. I usually stir it real good also. Any blotching or uneveness seems to disappear for me with time and additional coats. I also try to let it dry thoroughly between coats.

[Tallbald]

Thanks for the input you all. Well I guess I jumped the gun, so to speak. I applied the oil with a foam brush. The oil did indeed spread as yesterday progressed. The blotchiness was that in areas the leather had been handled and clamped in the stitching horse, it was not absorbing and left the leather very light in contrast to the flap, which although I had embossed, took the oil quickly. I left the holster in the sun yesterday which probably helped too. I explained to my loving wife that this was another part of my learning curve. Her reply was, as usual, "Baby you did a beautiful job. It's so pretty! You have so much talent!" . I always reply "Honey you're silly! ". It does occur to me that my vinegaroon use is like caulking a baseboard---it can cover a lot of my mistakes. Thanks, Don.

[rickk]

I just smear it all over with a paper towel. The first couple times I really lay it on heavy. It all goes in and spreads out in a couple days.  I really think it moves dye with it to some extend, helping to fix a slightly blotchy dye job at the same time.

Tallbald, as you just discovered, a few days of simply waiting seems to fix many problems with no effort at all.  If the leather is still a bit stiff you probably want to add additional applications of neatsfoot oil.  If in doubt, do it a little at a time to gain confidence.

Yes, it IS possible to add a bit too much. I HAVE done it, but it takes quite a bit. The solution for that is to first wait a week to make sure you really have added too much, and then wrap it with paper towels and put it some place very warm. The excess will be absorbed by the paper towels.

It normally really does take quite a bit of neatsfoot oil to be "too much" though.

Rick

[Marshal Will Wingam]

I've gotten too much on a holster and it doesn't hold it's shape well. On a belt, that isn't as important, but for a competition rig, it can make a big difference. Oils always spread evenly through the leather with time. If you are patient, you'll probably find the blotchiness will dissipate.

[TN Mongo]

I have to agree with Marshal Will on this one.  I have gotten a competition holster too soft by applying too much neetsfoot.  I have also found that if I oil after dyeing a piece,  applying extra oil to help get rid of the blotchiness, will make that piece much darker than the rest of the rig.

[Cliff Fendley]

I've never had a rig made from good firm/dense carving leather get too soft from Pure Neatsfoot and I have applied it very heavy to darken them sometimes. Some of my personal rigs have been coated very heavy to darken them and even after a lot of time they are still nice and firm and hold their shape well.

Years ago I noticed neatsfoot would make them soft but back then I was using cheaper quality leather.

I've learned the type and quality of the leather makes much more difference then the amount of oil or conditioner you put on it.

If I want an item to be softer and more supple I use skirting or bridle leather, it does seem softer and will soften a little more when I put oil on it.

To the original question, yes it does even out with time. I've oiled the edges with darkened neatsfoot to add highlights only to have it even out to one solid color with time.

[TN Mongo]

The leather that got soft on me was from Tandy.  I have been using Wickett and Craig leather recently and I have been happy with it.  I haven't really soaked any of the Wickett and Craig in neetsfoot, so I have no personal experience as to how it would hold up.

[Cliff Fendley]

Wicket and Craig carving leather stays very firm even when I oil it heavy. If I want a piece to be softer and more supple I use their skirting or bridle leather.

A lot of the leather from Tandy will turn into an old rag if you put much oil on it. They do have some good stuff available from time to time but the special pricing pieces is what I'm referring too. If you get Tandy's better quality leather it will be the same or higher price as W&C.

[DUKE DEADEYE NUKEM]

Wicket and Craig carving leather stays very firm even when I oil it heavy. If I want a piece to be softer and more supple I use their skirting or bridle leather.

A lot of the leather from Tandy will turn into an old rag if you put much oil on it. They do have some good stuff available from time to time but the special pricing pieces is what I'm referring too. If you get Tandy's better quality leather it will be the same or higher price as W&C.

Good info and thanks guys. 

[ChuckBurrows]

One "trick" nobody mentioned is to warm your neats foot oil to between 90-110° F and use the warmed oil - it will spread more evenly and absorb much better. Also lightly dampen with water first before applying the oil......both are tricks I learned old timers beaucoups years ago.......

[Trailrider]

I have my flame-resistant gear and Daddy's M-1 helmet on as I write this:

I NEVER use Neatsfoot oil on holsters or belts!  Neatsfoot oil is intended to prevent cracking of horses' and cattle's hooves. That is living tissue and will regenerate. The fibers of tanned leather will eventually disintegrate!  I use Bag Kote exclusively, and lightly applied at that.  I know there is some neatsfoot oil contained in the Bag Kote, but the other stuff they put in it neutralizes the bad effects of straight neatsfoot oil.  In 40 years of making leather goods this way, I've never had a complaint, not has my own equipment suffered, cracked or dried out, using Bag Kote.

Okay. You may flame when ready, Gridley!

[rickk]

Trailrider... it's a big world, to each his own, etc.

[Ned Buckshot]

Oddly enough I have had just the opposite!

I use nothing but pure neatsfoot oil and I've never had leather or stiching degrade and I built my first holster over 30 years ago and still have it!

Ned

[Cliff Fendley]

My experience is same as Neds.

I have leather gear from ball gloves to saddles that were handed down to me from my elders that had neatsfoot applied to them liberally. It's that gear that we used oiled and cared that is still in fine condition today. The old harness and gear that was just hanging in the barn not being used or oiled that has degenerated, cracked, and basically ruined.

From my experience I'm in no way convinced pure neatsfoot oil will hurt leather or stitching but more convinced that is what has preserved some of my older gear. We never used anything but neatsfoot oil on leather when I was a kid, it's all we knew I guess.

[Cliff Fendley]

Just to add, note we are saying PURE NEATSFOOT...... NOT the neatsfoot oil compound, I've been told neatsfoot oil compound has stuff in it that will rot stitching and may or may not be so good for leather but I have no experience with it.

[Trailrider]

Just to add, note we are saying PURE NEATSFOOT...... NOT the neatsfoot oil compound, I've been told neatsfoot oil compound has stuff in it that will rot stitching and may or may not be so good for leather but I have no experience with it.

I believe you are correct. Neatsfoot oil compound is a sure NO-NO! But I'll stick to Bag Kote.