Cylinder Pin lube?

ZVP · April 25, 2011, 05:00:56 PM

I have read of many lubes that do double duty as both a Cylinder Pin lube and a chainfire preventive. I was wondering that the often suggested Lubriplate Marine is the best to use as it is not petrochemical based and would be most compatable with most Propelants?
I have tried lubing the Pin with CLP Break-Free. I use it as a general gun metal treatment and lubriucant. It really resists the surface residue Black Powder and Substitutes produce. Residues just wipe free and clean when I use it! The Break-free seemed to lube the part but dried too quick.
I have both Moly Hi Temp Wheel bearing grease and Lubriplate Marine White. Which would you suggest for this job?
ZVP

Cemetery · April 25, 2011, 05:07:10 PM

I was having binding issues with traditional gun oil lubes on the base pin while shooting black.....so for a spell I was using plain Olive Oil...problem with that was about halfway through a match I got a hankerin' for some tomato's and garlic.....

But since I ran out of Olive Oil, I've been using Balistol with no problems...cylinder still spins fine after 5 stages.

August · April 25, 2011, 06:14:14 PM

Mobil 1 Wheel Bearing Grease. Count on it !

Springfield Slim · April 25, 2011, 07:02:56 PM

The Lubriplate is too thin, use the wheel bearing grease for base pins. I put little balls of bullet lube over the balls on my C&B guns, less messy

hellgate · April 25, 2011, 08:31:10 PM

I just use rotgut automotive bearing grease that is about $3 a pound can. Works fine in Colts. I need to put a drop of oil on the cylinder/frame junction between stages on my Remingtons if I shoot 30gr charges.

Mad Mucus · April 25, 2011, 08:54:34 PM

White lithium grease spray

rickk · April 25, 2011, 09:13:59 PM

Ballistol

Jefro · April 26, 2011, 08:59:08 AM

Gun Butter!! Use it on the moving parts of all fireams, BP or smokeless. Not to be confused with bore butter, that stuff is a joke.

http://www.gunbutter.com/

Jefro

Driftwood Johnson · April 26, 2011, 08:35:32 PM

Ballistol

Montana Slim · April 26, 2011, 09:40:04 PM

My universal recommendation would be to use TC Bore Butter (in the yellow tubes). A very small dab is all that is needed on the cylinder pin. It stays "put" adequately & works for at least 6 stages on my C&B, & cartridge conversions.....50+ rounds on my Old Smith & Wesson .44s.

A wise BP shooter also carries a small vial of liquid ballistol oil. This is great to add a drop to the cylinder pin during a match, if it happens to feel a bit sticky (usually due to extremely dry conditions).

Slim

Noz · April 27, 2011, 09:48:42 AM

Quote from: Montana Slim on April 26, 2011, 09:40:04 PM
My universal recommendation would be to use TC Bore Butter (in the yellow tubes). A very small dab is all that is needed on the cylinder pin. It stays "put" adequately & works for at least 6 stages on my C&B, & cartridge conversions.....50+ rounds on my Old Smith & Wesson .44s.

A wise BP shooter also carries a small vial of liquid ballistol oil. This is great to add a drop to the cylinder pin during a match, if it happens to feel a bit sticky (usually due to extremely dry conditions).

Slim

I too am a fan of Bore Butter. I tried some high tech stuff packaged like the gun butter and it was a disaster.

Deadeye Dick · April 27, 2011, 10:18:22 AM

Slim, Noz +1

Fingers McGee · April 27, 2011, 11:56:10 AM

Slim, Noz, Deadeye +1. Can go 10 stages with no further lube.

FM

ZVP · April 28, 2011, 04:55:08 PM

Lots more good advice1 I'm going to trey and get most of that stufff and see which works best out of the bunch. I should be able to find most ofthat stuff on line!
New gun (Colt Clone) gets here Monday!
Thanks,
ZVP

Wagon Box Willy · April 29, 2011, 03:45:12 PM

I hope to get the time to shoot a coupla hundred rounds in the back yard on Saturday and lube one pin with Ballistol and the other with BB. I've tried Mobil 1 Synthetic grease but it didn't seem to work all that well on my last outing.

I'll be shooting my Remmy 1875's which seem to seize up pretty quick.
-Willy

Fairshake · May 11, 2011, 07:33:47 AM

I have used the Mobil 1 for the past 3 1/2 years without a problem. On SAA revolvers that have the removeable cylinder bushing,it needs to be removed and grease added also. The base pin should also be smooth and not with high or rough spots. If you are not putting it to where the cylinder pushes out the excess then you are putting too little. The barrel cylinder gap should also be over .007 or it will fill and cause sticking.

Wagon Box Willy · May 11, 2011, 08:01:29 AM

Thanks for the replies.

The barrel gap is not my problem, it is cylinder pin binding around the bushing. As you can see below the Uberti 1875 does not have a very large bushing and the pin itself is quite small in diameter. Even with Mobil One it starts to seize up fairly quickly.

In another test I swabbed the inside of the cylinder pin hole with Mobil One as well as the pin and the front of the cylinder. After 35 rounds it was time to clean it all. It didn't seize but it was definitely getting tight. So far the Mobil One keeps my guns running the longest though I'd love to get another 10 or 20 rounds out of them.

Willy

August · May 11, 2011, 08:59:41 AM

Quote from: Wagon Box Willy on May 11, 2011, 08:01:29 AM
Thanks for the replies.

The barrel gap is not my problem, it is cylinder pin binding around the bushing. As you can see below the Uberti 1875 does not have a very large bushing and the pin itself is quite small in diameter. Even with Mobil One it starts to seize up fairly quickly.

In another test I swabbed the inside of the cylinder pin hole with Mobil One as well as the pin and the front of the cylinder. After 35 rounds it was time to clean it all. It didn't seize but it was definitely getting tight. So far the Mobil One keeps my guns running the longest though I'd love to get another 10 or 20 rounds out of them.

Willy

I find that it's not the lube on the base pin, or inside the bushing that's important. The trick seems to be to get lots of grease on the face of the bushing (i.e. between the bushing and the frame of the revolver) in an effort to keep the fouling from migrating down into the base pin.

I've noticed that, when my pistols bind up, only one small grain of powder has gotten past my "barrier" down into the base pin itself.

I have a sense that the more carefully I "seal" up the base pin to frame juncture, the longer the pistol will run. Usually, it goes the whole match without any problems. However, without "sealing" the juncture, the gun will get sticky after three or four stages.

Again, I use Mobil 1 for this purpose.

Fairshake · May 14, 2011, 10:45:38 AM

August, I agree with you 100% about the sealing of the bushing area. After I grease up the bushing and insert it back into the cylinder, they always have the excess grease push out around the base of the bushing. I don't clean this off and allow it to build a mound of grease so that the inside is sealed. I also leave a small mound where the base pin meets the cylinder. I shoot 5 or 6 stages and my revolvers are turning the same as they did at the start.

Wagon Box Willy · May 14, 2011, 11:01:29 AM

Howdy,

I agree with both August and Fairshake and do gob up the grease at the bushing but to no avail. With the latest experiment above I did get 30 rnds (5 stages) but I would not have chanced a sixth with the way the cylinder was turning.

Willy