Not a Remmie, But I Need Help.

[Patrick Henry Brown]

I posted this in the Gunsmithing forum, but figured that there are enough similarities that my SCORRS smiths might be able to help.I have a Palmetto Arms Whitney revolver that I bought a few weeks ago. I was getting ready to take it out to the range and was cycling the action when I noticed that the cylinder wasn't turning sometimes. Other times it wouldn't cycle all the way. And other times it operated perfectly. My first thought was a broken hand spring, but such was not the case. Interestingly, when I point the muzzle downward, the hand seemingly does not engage the ratchet on the cylinder. When I tip the muzzle almost straight up, it cycles as it should (most of the time, but not always). There is no excess gap between the cylinder and the barrel. No side to side play. Locks up tight as a drum and no early bolt engagement symptoms. I thought that perhaps the handspring was weak, so I replaced it with one off of an 1858 replica. Same problems as before. Need some thoughts, hints, and advice. This is a really nice example and I bought it to shoot. 

[Raven]

Sound like it could be excessive end shake
When you point the gun down the cylinder/ratchet moves away from the hand ..... so no engagement.
When you point the gun up cylinder/ratchet moves back into engagement.

Raven

[Patrick Henry Brown]

I thought about that, but the gap is minimal. I also noted that pressing the cylinder rearward with my other hand while cocking the revolver in a normal position did not make it work any better. Is it possible that the hand is just a bit short?

[Raven]

If the hand was short it would not rotate the cylinder into battery.
Check to see weather(I wish this site had spell check ) the hand/pawl can move outward away from the hammer overriding the ratchet.  If so bend the hand/pawl slightly inward toward the hammer.

Raven

[Patrick Henry Brown]

So you're talking about whether there is side-toside play in the window of the frame where the hand extends through? BTW, I sent you an email asking about your professional assistance.

[Patrick Henry Brown]

BTW, thinking about it, I did notice that the old hand is thinner and bears evidence of much polishing and suck. The edges are all rounded on it. and the outside is highly polished, as is the engaging surfaces.

[Raven]

Correct! you do not want the hand to be able to push to the out side of the hand window. You want the hand pushing to the inside toward the cylinder pin. May need a new hand.

Raven

If all it needs is some tuneing an hours labor at $65 should take care of it, if it's something really easy less. return shipping is $20, parts are extra.
Try the hand first and if you can't get it worked out let me know

[Patrick Henry Brown]

Will do. I've got the two extra Uberti 1875 hand/spring assemblies that are very close, though about 1/8" too long. They are also a bit thicker but fit alright in the channel in the frame. I may try trimming one down and fitting it in the next few days. If my shadetree gunsmithing fails to produce, I will definitely be sending it your way. I've also seen some interesting cartridge conversions done on the original Whitneys. Not sure if anything you and Walt currently make would fit, but it does have me wondering. 

[Patrick Henry Brown]

BTW, THANKS!!

[Patrick Henry Brown]

Raven:

Thanks, pard. Put the new hand in and all is great. Had to do some judicious stoning, but everything operates great unless I get hamfisted when cocking the revolver. Then it will over-rotate. I probably need to do just a bit more stoning. I actually think the problem is that the hammer opening in the frame was enlarged too much, allowing the hammer to cock way too far. The Whell on the hammer actually will travel over-center.

[Patrick Henry Brown]

Just an update. I ended up taking 0.002" off of the bolt and everything locks up great with no over-rotation at all. Now to test fire. Thanks again Raven!