Another Knife Sheath Question

[JD Alan]

I'm making a knife sheath for a friend, and I'm wondering if there is a guideline you follow as to where the knife rides on the belt.  He thinks that he wants the hilt at the bottom of his 2 1/2 inch wide gunbelt.  From what I recall seeing if it rides that low then it tends to flop around. If it were to ride high, then it would tend (I think) to be more solid, though you would have the handle sticking up a ways   

Sorry for the poor picture but you get the idea. The knife blade is 5 inches, the handle 4 1/2. The handle is rather thick and heavy.

This is my first sheath; I'm not a knife guy so I don't carry one, and I can't rely on my experience. But I can ask about yours

Thanks guys, I appreciate it. JD

[St. George]

Take a good look at Chuck Burrows' sheaths - you can extrapolate easily from there.

A knife hanging that low will just get in the way - raise it to where the top of the handle is about even with the top of your friend's gun butt when holstered and it'll be both handier to grasp and more importantly - ride more securely.

Good Luck.

Vaya,

Scouts Out!

[JD Alan]

While I appreciate St George's reply, I sure wouldn't mind some other thoughts on this subject.

I know we've got several knife makers on this wire who make sheaths as well.

Any words of wisdom? JD

[TwoWalks Baldridge]

JD I can not really help by speaking from experience making a knife sheath.  I have had a few made for myself.  What the knife is for and how I am going to wear it determines where the loop is.  I hold the knife handle and place the knife where I want it to be worn and that pretty much determines the belt loop location or length.

[Sir Charles deMouton-Black]

I think St George has it about right.  For a modern hunter, a knife handle too high above the belt is hard to grasp, and could become a dangerous thorn in your side in a fall.  Too low and it impedes riding in vehicles.

For range use during a match, a knife is mostly image.  As the gun butt is at a convenient height for the individual shooter already, matching the height makes eminent sense.  (For a persona as a cowboy, you might consider how practical the carry would be while on horseback.)

JD; As 2Walks intimates, you might want to discuss the issue with your friend.

[Forty Rod]

I had one made for my 8" bladed Bowie where the top of the belt sits at the halfway mark on the handle.  It's a real PITA riding that low. 

I'm looking at a couple of ideas for one that rides higher and where the belt loop is snug enough to make it difficult to slide it around. 

On the other hand, I'm also looking for a more reasonable 5"-6" blade, too.

[Dave Cole]

JD,here's my take. If I am doing a pouch sheath I usually put the top of the sheath about 1/2"-1" above the belt.On flat sheaths, I like to put the top of the sheath about 1"- 2" below the top of the belt.That being said,most of my customers vary widely in what they want.I have some that like very low ride sheaths and one of my better customers that prefers his ultra high ride.I have done at least 20 sheaths for him and he likes the handle riding fully above the belt.Regardless, after you explain the pros and cons of certain types of carry, it is up to the customer as to what he wants.Also if the sheath is properly made, low carry doesn't flop around.Dave

[KidTerico]

Dave thanks for the info. I know whenI have you make them for me I have you change the position depending on how I want to carry it. It will change on length of knife, length of handle and where I position it on the belt.I also change the angle of the sheath.KT

[Wild Billy Potts]

Did they even commonly carry large knives on their belts beyond the age of reliable revolvers? I know most Civil War soldiers would ditch the large knives after the first few miles of their first march. Pockets knives were, for the most part, the rule after that.

[St. George]

No - those big knives didn't work too well for general camp chores and their weight was prohibitive.

There's an old period cartoon "Sy and His Pards' - that shows 'How Sy Went In' - all festooned with 'have to have' gear,  and a huge bowie - and 'How Sy Came Out' - with a blanket in a rubber poncho and a canteen.

I based my advice on carrying a fighting knife in the real world.

Operationally - my Randall  Model 1-6 rode on my webbing immediately behind my .45 - the butt at the same height as the .45's grips - and carried that way, it was easily reachable as a weapon and as a tool.

Later in time, when I got involved in C&WAS - I put my Wild Rose Trading Company Bowie in the same position out of habit and comfort.

It's going to boil down to your customer's needs and comfort.

Vaya,

Scouts Out!

[Cliff Fendley]

For cowboy action you might want to consider a mexican loop style because not only is it easy to make them go over cartridges and large belts you can make them hang different heights by adjusting the way you make the skirt and where you position the loop over the pouch.

[Sir Charles deMouton-Black]

For cowboy action you might want to consider a mexican loop style because not only is it easy to make them go over cartridges and large belts you can make them hang different heights by adjusting the way you make the skirt and where you position the loop over the pouch.

I think the Mexican Loop knife "holster" fits into a stylistic niche but are there any historical examples of its use In-The-Day?

[ChuckBurrows]

Yes there are original period examples - Ivve seen them in a couple museums as well as in some private collections. Probably the easiest example to research is the won by Texas Ranger Bill McDonald - the author of "one riot one Ranger". I;ve got a pick of it some where but can't find it right now........with over 40,000 period images on my computer sometimes things get "lost"  

as to how best to wear it - I prefer high ride (actually mostly often a MOB carry), but many other folks prefer drop loops of various lengths - all depends on the user. IMO there is no single right way and as Dave noted, built right a drop loop won't be particularly floppy dependent on other factors such as size of blade, handle and how weighted/balanced.

As for big knives - the big "problem" is many if not most modern repros are overbuilt. The standard 8-10" blades on original Sheffield and American commercially made Bowies are usually no more than 1/8" thick, not the 1/4" or more made by so many today - knife weight is generally around 10-12 ounces max, dependent on handle material, etc. While it's true that the bigger knives were less popular with the advent of cartridges arms (which wasn't an overnight phenomenby any means) there are still plenty examples of post ctg arms knives with blades from 8-12" made and cataloged by the makers up until at least WW I - if there was no market for them they wouldn't have been made. Like anything else using a bigger knife is a matter of experience and having a well made and balanced knife

[JD Alan]

Wow, thanks for al the helpful replies. This knife is going to be worn on a CAS rig for decoration. I don't believe this shooter is worried about being period correct. His gun rig is classic TV western, plain black, but done well. He's fairly new to the sport, and I don't think he's completely sure what he wants, other than this knife in a plain black sheath.

It's not a bad looking knife, but IMO it's not balanced very well; the handle is quite long and heavy compared with the blade. It came with a sheath that won't fit his gun belt, it's brown, and ill fitting to boot! 

Thanks again for all of the helpful advice; it will also come in handy for future sheaths.

JD