Sears sells leather several revolving punches. Which one though?

[Tallbald]

On a whim, I looked at the Sears website and see they carry several different revolving punches, but I don't know which would be best. Prices about 10 to 30 dollars, with the 30 dollar one looking to have solid metal handles not stamped steel. How do I choose a good tool from the lineup? Thanks, Don

[Dalton Masterson]

I have not had any luck with a rotary punch unless I am doing medium to light weight work.

I prefer the individual punches, or a set of tube punches with the interchangeable handle.

DM

[bedbugbilly]

I have a "Crafttool Pro Rotary Punch" (item 3230-00)that I purchased from Tandy.  The handles are solid, not stamped and it is heavyweight.  They weren't cheap though - they list them now at $59.99.  They will last a lifetime plus though.  We had a pair on the farm that had stamped handles - don't know the brand but they were alright for the occasional hole in a bridle or something but on heavy leather, they didn't just didn't have the "beef" to make it easy.  I believe in buying good tools which will last and thus I bought the heavy pair from Tandy - usually the punch tubes can be replaced on most of the brands.  With the pair I have, I have no problem punching holes in heavy leather and they seem to work as well on 16 oz as they do on 8 oz.  I also have several sets of hollow punches that I got from Harbor Freight - their item number 3838 which is a nine piece set with punches from 3/32" up to and including 1'2".  They are on their website for $6.49 a set and can be mail ordered or picked up at one of their stores.  They seem to work well and I use them quit a bit.  They also sell a "rotary leather punch" (item 97715) for $6.49 but it looks pretty flimsy and I would imagine you get what you pay for.  My advice would be that if you are going to buy a rotary punch, buy the best one you can afford within reason - as you do more and more leather work, you'll be using it more and more and a good one makes the work that much easier.   

[Tallbald]

Thanks you all. I guess I'll wait for now because it may be something I will grow into, but don't have to have right now. Don

[bedbugbilly]

Don - in regards to the rotary leather punch - don't know where you are located, but you might check flea markets and antique stores as well.  I've run across them at places like that and sometimes they are priced cheap - sometimes not.  You can also leave your name and number so you can be contacted if somebody runs across sometihing.  A little rust on the handles can be cleaned off with oil and steel wool - the mechanics of the rotary wheel and condition of the punches on it are the important thing.  Also, I wouldn't be shy about letting friends and acquaintances know that you are getting in to doing leather work.  You never know what might come out of it or possibly someone knows somebody who has some tools they want to get rid of.  I've collected Civil War and military relics for over 45 years.  When I had my custom woodworking/millwork shop, I often had people stop that heard I collected those things.  Some wanted something identified, some wanted to sell and others wanted to give them to me as they knew they would be appreciated and taken care of.  The same thing went for old woodworking tools.  In turn, I used to go to a lot of auctions and if I saw something that I knew somebody collected, I'd pick it up if it was reasonable and pass it on to them.  Karma is a wonderful thing.   

[rickk]

I've had an Osbourne forged rotary punch for many years. It looked real cool, so I bought it. I think I used it maybe 5 times max.

99.9% of my holes are made with the hammer struck punches... the ones that take the same replaceable tubes as the osbourne rotary punch. I bought several punch sets so that I don't have to constantly be changing tubes to change hole sizes.

The holes are typically cleaner with hammer struck tools, especially on thicker leather. Also, one can not punch a hole with a roraty tool that is further into the piece than the jaws will allow. It is way less work to just whack a punch with a hammer and be done with it. I use a fairly heavy urethane hammer (one of those orange ones). The hammer does all the work on the down stroke.

The rare cases that justify a rotary punch for leather work would be if one was making a hole on something that was already mostly assembled and it would be difficult to position the punch and also a poundo board behind the piece. For those few occasions a cheaper stamped metal rotary punch will do the job as well as a high end one.

The only thing I would personally insist on would be that the punch tubes and the anvil are removable so they can be easily sharpened or replaced if needed. Some of the real cheap ones do not have replaceable tubes or a replaceable anvil.  

But, if you have an excess amount of money and for some reason do want the best rotary punch available, the Osbourne forged punch is the way to go.

http://www.csosborne.com/NO155.HTM

[Chuck 100 yd]

I bought my Tandy pro rotary punch using the 1/2 off coupon that came in the black Friday sale flier.
Also have a set of hammer type from Tandy. The rotary is a fine tool. Between the two sets I have most hole punching chores covered.

If you can wait,Tandy will have a sale on them. Go to their web site and sign up for their e-mail fliers. They send them out every two to three weeks.