Confused on holster finishes, stains and sequence

[Tallbald]

I'm trying to learn to select a few basic stains and finishes for the holsters I want to make, but there's so much information out there I am confused. Advice would really be appreciated. On the advise of a leather store employee, I got black alcohol based stain and used a water-based sealer finish on top. A really stiff holster resulted which is fine for now, but could I have stained my holster then finished with the neatsfoot oil I bought at the farm store? Or can oil finish be used only over unstained holsters? Does neatsfoot oil finishing cause embossing to swell and lose definition? Thank you, Don

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

I'm trying to learn to select a few basic stains and finishes for the holsters I want to make, but there's so much information out there I am confused. Advice would really be appreciated. On the advise of a leather store employee, I got black alcohol based stain and used a water-based sealer finish on top. A really stiff holster resulted which is fine for now, but could I have stained my holster then finished with the neatsfoot oil I bought at the farm store? Or can oil finish be used only over unstained holsters? Does neatsfoot oil finishing cause embossing to swell and lose definition? Thank you, Don

   When I use a spirit dye, I do my dyeing after I done all my tooling and stamping, I then let my leather dry, if you don't let the leather dry first ,then you can lose some of your definition, when dry I go ahead and dye my piece, I watch it as it dries and if it needs more dye I go ahead and put on another coat, then you want to let it thoroughly let it dry, usually 24 hours unless you live in a damp environment, then give more time, then I buff the heck out of it, until I don't get any rub off, after that, I use Lexoil conditioner, one coat , after letting it dry, ( about an hour ), I'll put on usually two coats of Neatsfoot oil, this will soften the leather , if you want the top of the bucket a little stiffer don't use too much conditioner or oil in that area, I then let my leather dry, 24 hours, if your satisfied with the looks of the leather,  then you can put on your finish, I like Bag-Kote ( more of a soft satin look) or Tan -Kote,( more glossy ) but there are several products out there that are also good, just pick one that works well over oil. when the finish is dry, the last thing I use is www.skidmores.com leather cream, put a nice coat on and let it dry over night, then buff it up, two coats is best. Hope this helps, there will be others giving there methods too, so you can get several ideas on how to do this.

                  tEN wOLVES   

[marine-mp]

Tallbald,
   My S.O.P.  1) Tool    2) Sew    3) Dye or Vinegaroon    3) Finish edges   5)  2 light coats 50/50 Resolene   6) Couple rubbings of Kiwi Neutral Shoe polish (takes away any slight tackiness from resolene.  7) Start bussin' caps!!!!!  Semper-fi   MIke

[JD Alan]

I have a suggestion for you Tallbald; take a look at my posts (JD Alan) from a couple of years ago and you'll find all your questions, along with some very helpful answers. I was asking these very same questions and sure appreciate all the help I received.. The advantage of going to my posts is you will get to read days or even weeks of posts in a few minutes.

Good luck and keep experimenting, it's a real good way to learn things. JD       

[Slowhand Bob]

I know that sometimes a dollar can be in mighty short supply, for me that seams like always, but if you have a few dollars to invest in some really good education, try to get the DVD series put out by Chuck Burrows over at Wild Rose Trading.  I think he devotes more and better space to the finishing steps than any video, with the possible exception of JBs 'Frontier Gun Leather' video.  The methods that Chuck uses are for more in depth than the plain oil immersions used by Bianchi though and work well as custom techniques.  For anyone who has not watched the set, and yes the knife DVD adds greatly on top of the holster DVD, you are missing some great leather work information.  Im still confused over who is the boss over there, Chuck or Noland!   

Check down the left hand column.  http://www.wrtcleather.com/

[rickk]

Tallbald,

Assuming your water-based sealer is "Resoline", neatsfoot oil will penetrate it. It doesn't seem to make sense to me that it can, but it does. Put enough on that it is obvious that it is there, and wait a day. Repeat the next day if needed.

Also, did you seal the inside of the holster? If not, you can apply your neatsfoot oil on from the inside.

I have yet to see Neatsfoot oil cause any significant swelling of leather, or alter carving or stamping noticably. Now, I have never soaked something in Neatsfoot over night or anything insane like that... I am talking one or two applications of it.

Neatsfoot WILL cause some dye running, especially in the first few days after application of dye. If you have done something artsy with more than one color you are on your own and some experimentation is in order. At the same time, an application of neatsfoot oil the day after applying Resolene will fix any splotchiness in the dye (which always seems to happen because variations in the leather do not soak up dye uniformly). Put the neatsfoot on a somewhat splotchy die job and look at it again the next day. The dye will be much smoother in distribution. A couple days later and it will look perfect. I do not know if this trick will work on old dye - it is part of my normal routine. I apply die one day, apply Resolene the next day (usually 2 coats of 50-50 with water), then I apply neatsfoot the next day. If needed, I will do another coat of neatsfoot the following day.

Every once in a while I will get some leather that does not seem to want to suck up dye, even when I use dye prep. I am usually having this happen when I am doing black for some reason. I wind up putting several applications of dye on before it seems to color well. As a result, there is a serious buildup of black powder (carbon maybe?) on the surface of the leather. I wait one day after dying, and rub the surface powder off with a paper towel wetted with neatsfoot oil. I let it soak in overnight and it seems to help the dye penetrated deeper. I then pick up where I left off with the Resolene, and then the next day with more neatsfoot oil if needed. More neatsfoot oil is almost always needed on leather like this as all the solvents in all the multipile applications of dye have removed much of the natural oils and the leather is pretty stiff.

Rick