black powder measure

[rickk]

I am afraid to ask a question starting with "what is the best..." so I won't.

Let me ask if anyone has experience with, and comments pro or con, on either the Hornady, or the Lyman, or the RCBS Black powder measure?

I plan on bench mounting it. I don't plan on ever putting it onto a turret press. It will always be bench mounted.

My primary purpose right now is for shotgun reloading, but I can see it getting used for handgun cartridge reloading eventually as well. It is possible that I would get a second one specifically for handgun, so if there is some reason to use one brand for shotgun and another brand for pistol I would be interested in hearing about that too.

Rick

[Ranch 13]

I have used the Lyman 55 for several years and it works well.

[Montana Slim]

standard lyman model 55.

Slim

[Blackpowder Burn]

I've got the Lyman 55 black powder version.  I use it as you describe for shotgun and rifle cartridge reloading.  I find the accuracy and repeatability are excellent.

[rickk]

Let me add one thing.

I use 1F in shotgun loads. Has anyone tried 1F in any of the three mentioned measures and are there any problems doing it...crunching of grains, causing binding for instance?


Montana Slim, I see you are using the standard Lyman 55. Ranch 13, are you using the standard 55 or the Black Powder version?

Rick

[Ranch 13]

 1f isn't a problem in the lyman.

[Dick Dastardly]

Depending on your needs, I'll put in a plug for the little LEE Perfect powder measure.  It's graduated in CCs and is very repeatable.  Being all polycarbonate construction, it won't corrode.  That means you can leave it with BP in for extended periods of time without it seizing up.

DD-DLoS

[Flint]

Hornady makes a brass drum and aluminum hopper powder measure for black powder.  It is made just like the normal bench mount type with a rotating drum.  I can also be set up with a Hornady case activatred assembly under it if you want it on a progressive press.

[rickk]

Flint, any criticisms of the Hornady, either Pro or Con?

[Flint]

No problems.  The only fault I found is the adjustment plunger is held in place with an o-ring's friction, so you have to be sure it is holding the position you put it in when you tighten the collar.  There are marks on the plunger in 5 and 10 graqin increments for reference.

http://www.hornady.com/store/Black-Powder-Measure-1-Each/

[Pettifogger]

Flint, any criticisms of the Hornady, either Pro or Con?

Again, it depends on how precise you need you powder charges.  The Hornady has a brass drum and powder slide.  However, it is only adjustable in 5 grain increments from 10 to 50 grains and in 10 grain increments from 50 to 120 or where ever it ends.  I forget and the slide isn't marked.  What it has is a series of annular grooves cut in the powder slide and a rubber "O" ring in a cap.  You loosen the cap and slide the powder slide in or out and the O ring drops into the grooves.  Hard to adjust and non-repeatable if you want to try and get the O ring to go between the grooves.  Nicely made, but not completely "adjustable."  I know some will scream in horror, but I use a Dillon measure with an aluminum hopper.

[rickk]

All good info... please keep it coming!

[Mako]

6 Years on a Dillon XL-650 and no problems.  Load 4 calibers in BP with it.  I have a Dillon Tool Plate for each caliber I load, in some cases one for BP and another for Smokeless in the same caliber.  I Have 4 different tool plates for BP with a Hornady Case Activated Lower Assembly on each, I just move the measure from one plate to another.

http://i627.photobucket.com/albums/tt358/Mako_CAS/Lube%20and%20Loading/t-17795.jpg

I have a "standard" for powder volume made from a case with every die set, usually made from a shortened .45 Colt case with the caliber marked on it with a sharpie.  If you use a charge which correlates to the Lee dippers you could use those. I throw a charge  with the powder I am using that day into a small scoop and then pour it into the standard.  I adjust it up or down until the powder level is flush, then I throw one into an actual case and double check the volume visually.  I then attach the spring to the arm and I am ready to load.

This is my Dillon with the measure:http://i627.photobucket.com/albums/tt358/Mako_CAS/Lube%20and%20Loading/IMG_334924.jpg

/Mako

[rickk]

Very cool Mako... very cool.

Have you ever used it with 1F by any chance?

[Mako]

Yep, I have a stand on a base, but I rarely use it.  I use Fg in shotshells, but I scoop now.  The brass drum has no problem shearing grains.  You can feel a difference between Fg and FFFg, it feels "gritier" when cycling.  I don't notice as much of a difference between FFFg, FFg or Cowboy when rotating the cylinder.  Because of the relatively large cylinder diameter it is about as good as you will get.

~Mako

[Blackpowder Burn]

Pettifogger,

I also use a Dillon powder measure with an aluminum hopper for all my pistol caliber stuff.  Works great.

[Pettifogger]

What's the big deal with the 1F?  2fg works in pretty much everything and meters better.

[Ranch 13]

What's the big deal with the 1F?  2fg works in pretty much everything and meters better.

1f will give you less recoil, and in many instances less fouling.

[rickk]

.

What's the big deal with the 1F?  2fg works in pretty much everything and meters better.

What you say about 2F metering better is absolutely true. Within a certain range, 2F does work in pretty much everything. There is a range however. It certainly is too course for good performance in a .36 caliber revolver. On the other end, it starts to be too fine around .70 caliber or so.

I won't debate it, but in many people's opinion, including my own, 1F gives less peak pressure. As long as the barrel is long enough to burn it all, you can get the same velocity with less pressure.

Much of my BP shotgun  shooting with with a Damascus Barreled Crecent SxS. It is in good shape, but I see no need to abuse the 80 year old any more than I need to. I haven't done much comparison patterning in it between 1F and 2F in it, but it is possible that 1F gives better patterns due to less shot deformation. Much of modern shotgun load developement is all about being nice to the shot to prevent deformation. First plastic wads happened, then buffer happened. It is all about keeping the shot round.

I know that 2F is commonly used in 12 gauges, but I suspect that much of the reason is that 2F is easier to get. 1F is rare in gun shops. As the bore starts exceeding .7 or so, 1F should be thought about. This is especially true with "hot loads". As long as the barrel is long enough to burn it, 1F will give more velocity for the same pressure. For knocking down steel targets hot loads aren't needed. When deer or bird hunting it would offer an advantage.

I don't use it for hot loads, if I really want that, I have other guns more suitable for the purpose. I use it in 12G  to be nicer to the older guns.

I also use lots of Cannon Grade, but that is another story for another day.

[Mako]

What's the big deal with the 1F?  2fg works in pretty much everything and meters better.

It makes more fire come out the end of the barrel  (isn't that enough just by itself?)...Lots of smoke and flame, looks pretty cool.  

There is also less transferred heat and a longer pressure curve.  Barrels heat up less with Fg (an actual  measurable amount per shot) which is a small plus in hot weather on stages with a lot of shotgun targets.

FFg does measure better than Fg, it's simply a matter of large grains at the shear point.  So for Fg I have lately been using an older MEC 600 Jr,  I just stick a funnel in the case in between the priming station and the powder/wad/shot station and drop a scoop of powder.  As a side note the 600 JR is probably the perfect BP press for those that use plastic wads with BP and just need a few boxes a month.

I  have been modifying one of my MEC Grabber progressive loaders to make it a BP "safe" loader. The measure assembly is entirely redone.  I can drop FFg and FFFg without problem, the Fg is still a bit sticky, it need some refinement.  It is made entirely of non-sparking materials including the powder side drop tube and the powder reservoir.

~Mako