Cast Bullets Sticking

CavSoldier3ACR · January 10, 2011, 02:13:46 PM

I have been casting for my 45-75 and have had a problem with my bullets sticking in my Lyman mould. I end up having to rap on the handle with a wooden stick and it actually broke one of the arms off the mould handle. Is there a product that you can spray on the surface form of the mould to help keep the bullets from sticking? if so, who sells it?

Shotgun Franklin · January 10, 2011, 05:29:37 PM

You can smoke the mould on occasion.

Sir Charles deMouton-Black · January 10, 2011, 06:09:43 PM

Generally the advice is to rap the hinge bolt with your mould hammer/stick. If you smoke (the mould that is;), don't use a candle, as that leaves wax in the mould. Not sure what doobies do to the mould? It seems,though, that the problem diminishes after the mould acquires more experience, but each mould has it's own quirks.

Buck Stinson · January 10, 2011, 06:35:36 PM

Midway sells a product called Drop Out. It is a spray graphite product that works wonders if you follow the easy directions. I use it in ALL of my bullet molds as the S.O.P.

Adios,
Buck

CavSoldier3ACR · January 11, 2011, 09:53:58 AM

Thanks Gents, that is the advice I was seeking.

john boy · January 11, 2011, 07:03:27 PM

... and I use no mold releases of any kind. Just cleaned good with a 5% solution of Micro-90. Better than 90% of the bullets drop freely when the correct casting temperature is reached... sprue puddle frosts in 5 to 10 seconds depending on the bullet weight. Another key item to allow bullets to drop is ... if while holding the handles, they wiggle up and down, the mold halves are not in proper alignment. As such, the bullet will be 'bound' in the cavity by either the the left or right half when you try to open them. So, tighten them.
Finally, watch the mold halves when you try to open them after whacking the handle bolt. If not in alignment, the top of one will be higher than the other = bound bullet in the cavity

larryo_1 · January 13, 2011, 11:58:30 AM

I have read about the cast bullet sticking and until today I have not been able to get out to my shop due to a total knee replacement but today I was able to go out and get the information that I think may be of help. Some years back, I got a couple of bullet molds from Rapine for my .33 Winchester along with their "Rapine Mold Prep". That stuff really works--at least for me that is. I just take a cold mold, a "Q-tip" dab a bit of the mold prep on it and coat the inside and outside of the mold blocks and then just let it dry. The rate of application depends on how much you use your mold. I have never had any problems with sticky bullets but it is a bugger to get off your fingers if you get sloppy. Now I don't know if their address has changed but this is what I took off the bottle: "Rapine Bullet Mould Mfg", 9503 Landis Lane, East Greenville, PA 18041. I suppose if one were interested, you could Google and maybe get the correct one if this one is no longer good. I dont know if this will help anybody but were I interested, I sure would check it out. The stuff works!

JimBob · January 13, 2011, 05:04:42 PM

Quote from: larryo_1 on January 13, 2011, 11:58:30 AM
I have read about the cast bullet sticking and until today I have not been able to get out to my shop due to a total knee replacement but today I was able to go out and get the information that I think may be of help. Some years back, I got a couple of bullet molds from Rapine for my .33 Winchester along with their "Rapine Mold Prep". That stuff really works--at least for me that is. I just take a cold mold, a "Q-tip" dab a bit of the mold prep on it and coat the inside and outside of the mold blocks and then just let it dry. The rate of application depends on how much you use your mold. I have never had any problems with sticky bullets but it is a bugger to get off your fingers if you get sloppy. Now I don't know if their address has changed but this is what I took off the bottle: "Rapine Bullet Mould Mfg", 9503 Landis Lane, East Greenville, PA 18041. I suppose if one were interested, you could Google and maybe get the correct one if this one is no longer good. I dont know if this will help anybody but were I interested, I sure would check it out. The stuff works!

I believe Rapine has closed the doors.That is one of the best mold release agents I have used.It appears to be finely powdered graphite in a denatured alchohol solution.The alchohol evaporates quickly leaving the graphite coating.

larryo_1 · January 13, 2011, 09:01:07 PM

Jim Bob:
I did look at what BACO has to offer and it looks as though the stuff that they have is the same stuff as Rapine sold. Guess I will have to get some when I run out of the stuff that I have.