How to Remove Rust from an Original Spencer Carbine? *** Photos Added ***

Started by Two Flints, January 09, 2011, 05:08:52 PM

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Two Flints

Hello SSS,

Is there a best way to safely remove rust from an original Spencer Carbine that may have been stored in a damp area?  What methods have you tried with success?  Please DETAIL your technique ;) ;)

Two Flints

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Herbert

For me it depends on what type of rust has formed eg surface rust or deep shale formed rust or somthing in between,all can be improved some by just using a good oil(I realy like Edds red recipe)if slitly worse I youse a bronze wool for scrubingand very fine steel wool to finish off,always soaked in Edds red,if that does not do the jobe there are some harsher metods that work but jenraly they remove the finish and are last resort methods for me,the fist methods are what I would use on a original spencer and if it did not work just keep trying or remove all wood and soak in kerosine for a week

Arizona Trooper

Herbert's method ought to work well. I use OO or OOO steel wool (or brass wool) with Automatic Transmission Fluid. It is fantastic penetrating oil and cheap. Plus, I usually have it laying around the shop. The more agressive you are, the more finish you risk loosing to the cleaning.  If you have scale rust, you can soak it with ATF and then very carefully work on just the scaled area  with a sharp, fresh exacto knife. Be very careful! One slip and you have a scratch.

Two Flints

Hello SSS, and thank you Herbert and Arizona Trooper,

I've added a few photos to show the extent of the rusting on this carbine.  Also, note the, maybe, kill??? notches on the stock?  Any other suggestions on what they might be?













But, the rust is my main concern.

Two Flints

Una mano lava l'altra
Moderating SSS is a "labor of love"
Viet Vet  '68-69
3/12 - 4th Inf Div
Spencer Shooting Society Moderator
Spencer Shooting Society (SSS) #4;
BOSS #62
NRA; GOAL; SAM; NMLRA
Fur Trade Era - Mountain Man
Traditional Archery

Herbert

That carbine will come up very good with good oil and bronze wool,just dont be in a hury,it will take a few aplications but you will be amazed at the diffrence,I belive S&S still has original cartridge guides if you do not want to repair that one

JimBob

Brownell's has a stainless steel sponge(product no.080-000-321) that I have used for removing rust from guns in that condition.It will not remove any underlying finish that is left.I have found "Kroil" to work the best in soaking rust loose before using the sponge.

Fox Creek Kid

You can use a piece of flat solid brass on flat surfaces in conjunction with oil, e.g., Ballistol, Kroil, etc.

River City John

Those notches seem fairly regular in spacing. Have you held a ruler up to them to see if they align? I wonder if it's markings for measuring. Would be handy.

RCJ

p.s. On looking more carefully, maybe not. There appears to be some variation in spacing.
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You all have given your tips, and advice, thanks.

This is one that I have used for old guns, though it may not be as economical as some;

http://www.g96.com/gun_treatment.html

Let it soak and then brush with an old toothbrush.  Wipe up with paper towel & repeat as necesary.
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Herbert

Quote from: Fox Creek Kid on January 11, 2011, 05:09:55 AM
You can use a piece of flat solid brass on flat surfaces in conjunction with oil, e.g., Ballistol, Kroil, etc.
that is how to achive the best results and keep every thing square and smooth,this is how the best in the job do it

DJ

In addition to bronze/copper wool or pot cleaners and oil, one "tool" I use is a brass scraper.  I pound the neck of an empty cartridge case "flat" and use it as a blade to scrape away loose rust.  Used judiciously it leaves bluing intact.  The brass streaks it can leave behind clean off easily with Hoppe's #9.

Another tool I use is a dental pick in conjunction with a jeweler's loupe.  This has to be done carefully, but with the aid of the magnification, it can really help get rid of live rust while steering clear of undamaged areas of the metal.  Even if you shy away from the dental pick, I highly recommend using a loupe to examine rust, because it reveals what is going on much better than the naked eye and also allows you to see pretty clearly how successful your efforts have been.

Good Luck.

--DJ

SGT John Chapman

Regards,
Sgt Chapman

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El Tigre

Quote from: Two Flints on January 09, 2011, 05:08:52 PM
Hello SSS,

Is there a best way to safely remove rust from an original Spencer Carbine that may have been stored in a damp area?  What methods have you tried with success?  Please DETAIL your technique ;) ;)

Two Flints

Hello Two Flints,

After a long time of sickness I am back. To remove rust remove the wood and store the metal in Pettroleum for 4 weeks. Than you can wipe off the rust and you will not scratch the metal.
If you want to clean the wood than use a oven cleaner. It is a spray, sorry I do not finde the right wording. Spray the cleaner onto the wood, let it there for 2 days and wipe it with water. The wood will be as new.

El Tigre

Hope I could help

Capt'n Jack

I use OOOO (that is 4 ought) steel wool and gun oil (3in1 oil) and lightly rub the rust.  It takes a lot of very light rubbing but the finish should not be harmed and the rust can be removed.  Pitting will just have to give the gun some character.  For really expensive guns, I switch to a really good grade of linen paper and oil, to reduce further the cutting action.  The real key to any method is to work slowly and with a very light touch taking the rust off slowly.  Time is your friend.  Under no circumstance do you want to polish or refinish.  Just clean and coat with a good micro crystal based wax.
Capt'n Jack was my great great grandfather, a Captain of the Ky Cavalry in the Civil War.  He lived to a ripe old age.

Fox Creek Kid

Sgt. Chapman, I would not recommend that shower hook formula as vinegar will remove gun blue right now.  ;)

Arizona Trooper

Watch out with the oven cleaner!!!! The lye actually disolves the top layer of wood. I cleaned a WRA M-1 stock this way and lost most of the cartouches. It looked nice when done, but declined in value about 90%. I have had a lot of success cleaning stocks using a 50-50 mix or Windex and water. Dip OOO steel wool on the mixture and gently rub down the stock. The gunk that comes off will amaze you, and the cartouches will still be there. In fact you may find ones you didn't even know were there. If you have a significant other, wait until she will be out of the house for a few hours, put lots of old newspapers on the floor and have a big roll of paper towels handy. You are guarinteed to make a mess! Once you are finished cleaning, the stock will look really bad. Let it dry over night and start putting on linseed oil. After a few coats of oil it will come back to life.

L4aeronca

Howdy

Just found your forum and just joined. Love it.
I read an article awhile back from a man that restores antique firearms and his recommendation is to use WARM OLIVE OIL to clean the metal and wood. NOT motor oils. motor oils contain soaps,detergents and other harsh chemicals that can actually damage metal and wood parts. Having been in aviation for 35yrs we always used a special oil when we preserved engines for long time storage. This oil is different from what you run in the engine and cannot be used to run an engine. We even used just regular lindseed oil for preserving. So I would be careful of motor oils.
I found my spencer at an estate auction and it was listed as "antique gun with ring on side" its the best buy I have ever made. $250.oo and its in really good shape. minor rust, original cartridge holder and the wood fits nice and tight to the metal. the wood does not show any signs of having been reworked becasue there is no difference of level going from metal to wood. The only change made to this rifle is that it has a buckhorn rear sight. BUT looking at the pics postedyou can find several in there with these sights.
Thanks for a great forum.

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