What does gum tragacanth do?

[Messerist]

I have a question on the uses of gum tragacanth.  What does it do for the leather?  I have Chuck Burrow's DVD on holster making and it looks like he uses it for a burnishing agent.  Am I correct in my assumption.  I want to make some holsters and was wondering if I need to use it for a unlined holster.  Thanks for any help in advance.   Now back to surfing for more holster po#n!!!!   

[Trailrider]

I sometimes use gum t for burnishing the edges of leather articles.  Other times I use Fiebing's Sole & Heel Edge dressing, which is a liquid wax-like substance.  Regardless, what you do is apply the gum t to the edges, allow it to dry for a few minutes, and then burnish the edge with a ceramic burnishing tool or sometimes a piece of deer antler.

I would NOT apply this to the entire unfinished surface of an unlined holster.  I often apply Bag-Kote to the unfinished surface, depending on how rough the leather is.

 

[ChuckBurrows]

Gum trag is a natural glue type substance on on edges it helps stick the fibers together to get a better burnish. On the back (flesh side) of leather it can also help to smooth it out and also acts as a sealer.

As to it's use as a top coat I must respectfully disagree - the Amish have used it for a very long time as a top coat on harness and other using leathers and I use it as one of mine and have for over twenty years. It gives a nice satin shene - apply a thin coat, wipe off any excess, let dry and burnish with a coarse cloth (canvas, old jeans, etc.)

[Cliff Fendley]

What Chuck said.

The Amish that built harness for my uncle when I was growing up used it as a top dressing all over. When I was growing up saddle soap, neatsfoot, and gum trag were about the only things used on working leathers. I still have most of those saddles and harness today. I regularly still use gum trag today on all my edges and flesh side of leather and accasionally use it as a top coat. Bag Kote and Gum trag are about all I use for top coating. They both give that nice satin look I like.

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

 I've followed Chucks method on this for a few years now, and it has work well for me, and like Cliff pointed out, Gum T, Bag Kote, I'll also use Tan Kote on  some pieces, but usually diluted with alcohol these three are a great combination, when a satin finish finish is desired, or just wanting to seal your leather on dyed pieces without the plastic look.


         tEN wOLVES  

[Slowhand Bob]

I keep both Gum Trag and Bag Kote on my bench and almost use them interchangeably.  I will say that BK, mixed with water, seems to find itself as an overall top coat on the leather more often while GT gets burnished in on the ruff side more often BUT neither is a set in stone rule for me.  I have always preferred a bees wax/paraffin/NF oil mixture worked into the project edges.

[buckskin billy]

if i may drift a little off subject here,
slowhand bob would you mind giving the ratio to beeswax, parifin and neats foot oil?
i have a friend that raises bees and i get bees wax by the bag full on a regular bases. i would love to find more uses for it besides bullet lube

[knucklehead]

hey buckskin,

you can use bees wax to make leather waterproof like a canteen.
i found the information on a blackpowder reenactor website.
make a leather pouch like a tear drop shape or any shape you like but leave one side open. wet form it using lead shot.
after dry dip it into melted beeswax then cook it in oven so the beeswax penatrates the leather completely.
let dry.

now it is able to hold water and no leaks.

dont remember the specifics on cooking in oven but i do remember the basics.
havent tried it yet. its been one of those to do projects.

hopefully someone here can point us in the right direction on this.

i have been told bees wax also works to harden leather for armor. havent seen this done yet but have been told it works.

[Slowhand Bob]

Im not sure where the old 50/50 ratio for bees wax and parrafin came from but I think I read or heard it at least back to the 70s.  I used this for many years to slick/seal edges, prep punch points and prep thread for sewing, until I found Chucks thread wax recipe.  At some point I decided that I wanted it softer and being a fan of neatsfoot oil, thats what I tried.  The last large pot I mixed was 1lb of each wax and, I think, I used two tablespoons of oil """"""MAX""""".  Make a smaller batch with less oil and adjust oil to suit your preference but do not get to soft or the edge will not hold up well, been there also.  Im sure others have similar recipes they will share with us.   

[Skeeter Lewis]

I've heard some folks dilute gum tragacanth. Any thoughts, pards?

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

Skeet, I use Gum Tragacanth  straight out of the bottle, and also dilute it with water so that it will work with a spritzer spray bottle.

[Messerist]

Ok, First thank you for all your responses.  Gentlemen all!   I have another question that sort of dovetails with the original querry.  Do any of you make your own liquid gum tragacanth?  I read a post here on how to make your own.  It may be what I have to do since The Wife gave me the "double bug-eyed, female fun limitation factor, are you crazy?" look when she saw how much it cost to buy a quart.  If I wanna keep my wiskey ration I gotta find a cheaper way.   Thanks

[TwoWalks Baldridge]

are you crazy?" look when she saw how much it cost to buy a quart.  If I wanna keep my wiskey ration I gotta find a cheaper way.  

Or you could get a 4oz bottle.   

[rickk]

A quart lasts a long time... a smaller bottle will get you through for a while.

Also, look here for decent prices on quarts (and 4 oz)

http://zackwhite.com/xcart/product.php?productid=18117&cat=0&page=1

http://zackwhite.com/xcart/product.php?productid=18116&cat=0&page=1

[Messerist]

Thanks for the link!

[rickk]

I was working on a holster tonight and something popped into my mind that I thought I would mention...

If for some reason you buy a quart, pour some of it into a 2-4 ounce container and work from that.

As you use it, if some of the leather tanning stuff works it's way back into the container, wierd things happen to it. It turns brown. I assume that some sort of chemical reaction (oxidation?) is taking place. Not sure what it is, but it can't be good.

Better to eventually have to dump an ounce or two than have to dump an entire quart.

[KidTerico]

Weaver sells it by the QT. for $10.95.. KT

[Professor Marvel]

Thanks for removing the AI sapmmer...

But a nice historical note, if one wants to harden leather "like armor" or for a hard shot or powder bittle, or for a drinking tankard, the best wax to use is carnuba wax applied to the finished product, then "baked in gently" on a low temp like 125 to 150..
.... YMMV

Not so good for a holster as there is little flex, and it comes out "too hard" ....

BTW for drinking vessels like a tankard one wants a food grade liner. Not varnish, etc...
For a leather flask, safest bet is to wrap and sew leather around a glass bottle .

Leather drinking vessels are not really pleasant... thus I use "modern tin" which was used all the way back to pre Rev War eras....

Yhs
Prof mumbles

[Marshal Will Wingam]

I agree with you that leather tankards aren't great fun. There are times, though, when one wants a larger leather vessel like a canteen or such for carrying water to be waterproofed. For that Brewer's pitch is the best solution.

[Professor Marvel]

Thanks Will!
I never thought of Brewers Pitch!