Problem with Uberti Schofiled .45LC

Started by Doug.38PR, October 11, 2010, 02:42:17 PM

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Pitspitr

I've had 2 Uberti Schofields. The first was a little Wells Fargo model in 45lc. The Second is a Cavalry model in 45lc. The WF model would shoot all day even with BP. The cav model would bind after 5 shots even smokeless. I had done some spring work and had the internal action smoothed up before I really found the problem (thus voiding the warranty) There wasn't enough clearance between the top of the main frame and the cylinder. It would clear until the cylinder started to heat up then it would rub. At first you could make it run by turning the cylinder by hand. After a while you couldn't do anything to make it turn. Ground a bunch off the frame and eventually got it to work. It works now but isn't very accurate. I've had lots of uberti's and they were all good guns but this one, it's a lemon!
I remain, Your Ob'd Servant,
Jerry M. "Pitspitr" Davenport
(Bvt.)Brigadier General Commanding,
Grand Army of the Frontier
BC/IT, Expert, Sharpshooter, Marksman, CC, SoM
NRA CRSO, RVWA IIT2; SASS ROI, ROII;
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WaddWatsonEllis

Pitspr,

I am so sorry that you are havinge a problem with your Schofields ... I have an old pair of Navy Arms (Uberti) Schofields that has done yeoman's duty without a hitch ... but they are 1990 vintage and I have never had a problem with them ...

There are two differences in our shootting though. I use Schofield ammo ... the friend who does my reloading feels he does not have to use a filler with the shorter  case ...

The second difference, which should cause some problems, is that he reloads with Goex.  But the only time I have ever had a problem, it was the primer rather than the powder. They go through all six stages withought a problem ....
My moniker is my great grandfather's name. He served with the 2nd Florida Mounted Regiment in the Civil War. Afterward, he came home, packed his wife into a wagon, and was one of the first NorteAmericanos on the Frio River southwest of San Antonio ..... Kinda where present day Dilley is ...

"Courage is being scared to death and saddling up anyway." John Wayne
NCOWS #3403

Doug.38PR

OKAY...I was planning on shooting the gun to get them in a malfunctioned state so I could take them to a gunsmith named Jim Clark down here in Louisiana Friday.

I just got a Rio Grande rig with 25 cartridge loops to go with my schofield's John Wesley Hardon crossdraw holster with 6 cartridgeloops on the side.   Strapped on the rig, went out back planning to put 6 rounds shooting at some tin cans......the gun DID malfunction as has been described in original post....but....I was having so much fun that I just went through the entire 36 rounds  8) (I'll tell y'all what, there is something about unloading and picking brass cartridges off the back of my belt and holster on dropping them in the cylinder that adds so much more fun to shooting rather than a modern speedloader or magazine)   By then end of the 36 rounds, while the gun still occasionally malfunctioned through the "shootout" with the Campbell Gang (soup cans)  by the time I was through shooting, the gun was performing ALMOST perfectly.....I don't know what to do now....should I pay money to have gunsmith look at it or just leave it alone and hope the problem stays gone or works itself out?

Trailrider

If you have or can find a gunsmith that KNOWS how to check these Uberti Schofields, then I WOULD have it checked out professionally.  IMHO a gun that can't be depended on has no place in my gun room!

Happy Thanksgiving!
Ride to the sound of the guns, but watch out for bushwhackers! Godspeed to all in harm's way in the defense of Freedom! God Bless America!

Your obedient servant,
Trailrider,
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Southern District
Dept. of the Platte, GAF

Doug.38PR

^
Good idea.

BTW, now that the gun has cooled off, it is starting to hang up bad.

Virginia Gentleman

My Navy Arms Schofield was fixed by the Taylor's & Co. gunsmith, he told me the cylinder pin had a few machine marks that were making it bind and he polished them out.  Now it is as smooth as butter! ::)

Doug.38PR

Okay, I took it to a local gunsmith.  He sent it to Uberti.  They sent it with a letter back saying they had delead the barrel explaining that the force cone had too much lead buildup and needed to be deleaded every so often because the gap between cylinder and cone was very short.  The gunsmith even called them on the phone for further detail.  They said their "gunsmith went went through two" lead remover tools (Lewis Lead Remover I think is what it was) to get all the lead out.  

As little as I shoot the gun I found that hard to believe.  (since I sent it to the last I probably have shot about 250 rounds through it.) The gunsmith can't deny that they made the gun and they should know what they are talking about.  On the other hand, most frequently I shoot 200 gr Speer LSWC bullets (made of soft lead) through it using loadings from Speer #14 (which are probably a little higher than average CAS loads).  A lighter bullet going that much faster might cause faster lead build up.   In any event, them deleading the barrel and cone seemed to have cleared up the problem, for now.

What do y'all think?

Drydock

Well, couple of things here:  Measure your chamber mouths, I'd bet their around .456.  Those Speer bullets will be .451.  That will give you a lot of blow by and lead depostits.  Velocity is not the problem, but pressure. Rule of thumb: Lead at the muzzle, too much velocity/lead too soft. Lead at the breech, not enough pressure/lead too hard.  THe bullet needs to obdurate(swell) and reduce the blow by/gas cutting that is leaving lead in the cone.

Have you tried jacketed rounds?  That would be a quick check to see if lead deposits are causing drag that quickly.

You may need to try softer lead alloy bullets, in .454 diameter.  If the problem is indeed as they say, this should help/fix it.  I would also suggest having your gunsmith recut and polish the forcing cone, and slightly open the gap.
Civilize them with a Krag . . .

Doug.38PR

WELL.....45 minutes ago (the first time I'm shooting it since I picked it up yesterday from the gunsmith that sent it off Uberti) I put 5 rounds through it, unloaded, loaded 6 more....and it started acting up again.   Rough action and binding on one of the chambers.  After working the action a little it backed off some but it's still a little rough again.  

I just got back from taking it back to the gunsmith who will send it out Tuesday and call Uberti and talk to their gunsmith.  Obviously this shouldn't be and it's not a leading of the barre/force cone problem.  

This shouldn't happen after 5 rounds

Pettifogger

Hate to ask the obvious, but what is the cylinder gap?

Drydock

Clean it up, then get some jacketed rounds and try them.  If the problem still occurs, then you've confirmed that it is NOT Leading, and you can shove that in Uberti's face.  If the problem goes away, then you may very well have lead flash binding on the cylinder face, indicating insufficent breech/cylinder gap.  That is a problem that should also be corrected by Uberti.  But at least you'll know!
Civilize them with a Krag . . .

Doug.38PR

Quote from: Pettifogger on September 08, 2012, 07:31:09 PM
Hate to ask the obvious, but what is the cylinder gap?

I don't know.  I haven't measured it myself.  BUT it has been to the factory....twice...and now a third time.  They say everything is within factory specifications.


Doug.38PR

Quote from: Drydock on September 08, 2012, 09:19:33 PM
Clean it up, then get some jacketed rounds and try them.  If the problem still occurs, then you've confirmed that it is NOT Leading, and you can shove that in Uberti's face.  If the problem goes away, then you may very well have lead flash binding on the cylinder face, indicating insufficent breech/cylinder gap.  That is a problem that should also be corrected by Uberti.  But at least you'll know!

Oh I've already confirmed that.  5 rounds and it gets rough?  That isn't leading.   The gun is on it's way back and the gunsmith is going to have another talk with their gunsmith

Pettifogger

Quote from: Doug.38PR on September 09, 2012, 05:33:11 PM
I don't know.  I haven't measured it myself.  BUT it has been to the factory....twice...and now a third time.  They say everything is within factory specifications.



You know that old saying, "if you want something done right, do it yourself?"  It's a pain to have to mess with a new gun.  However, sometimes it is easier to just do a few adjustments yourself than trying to mail it back and forth.  "Factory specifications" covers a lot of ground.  A lot of mechanical devices are within "factory specifications" but don't work well.  You keep talking about wiping the cylinder face and everything works fine.  That indicates fouling on the cylinder face.  I have had several Rugers that would not accept a .0015 feeler gauge (the thinnest I have) and would foul quickly with certain powders.  Open the gap to .003 to .005 and they will shoot thousands of rounds between cleaning.  Adjusting cylinder gap is an easy, cheap adjustment that any local smith should be able to perform.  Just asking if you have checked the easy things first.

Pitspitr

Not to beat a dead horse, but I feel the need to re-relate my expirience with my Uberti Schofields. The first one would shoot bp all day no problems. The second one woould bind after 5 rounds of smokeless, factory loads or my reloads didn't matter. I didn't find the problem until after I and a local gunsmith had done too much work on it to have it fixed under warranty (my cowboy guns get action jobs out of the box) Anyway The problem turned out to be not enough clearance between the cylinder and the frame above the trigger guard. When it starts to bind will the cylinder turn freely when the action is open? If you put a strip of paper between the frame and the cylinder ahead of the bolt will the cylinder turn? If not there isn't enough clearance between the frame and the cylinder.
I remain, Your Ob'd Servant,
Jerry M. "Pitspitr" Davenport
(Bvt.)Brigadier General Commanding,
Grand Army of the Frontier
BC/IT, Expert, Sharpshooter, Marksman, CC, SoM
NRA CRSO, RVWA IIT2; SASS ROI, ROII;
NRA Benefactor Life; AZSA Life; NCOWS Life

Doug.38PR

The cylinder turns freely whether the action is open or closed.  It's when you are cocking it that it binds.  If I give it aid with my fingers suring cycle it would continue into place

Doug.38PR

okay, are y'all ready for  this?   I just got a call back from the gunsmith that sent the Schofield back to Uberti.  He said their gunsmiths have determined the gun  needs  to be replaced.  They are going to send a new gun.   (y'all might want to sit down).........(ok)....BUT their estimated next production line of the schofield model is in 6 months.  So I may have a half a year to wait before the replacement gun comes back.

Abominable Bill

Ugh... That is a long time to wait. Cimarron had just gotten some Schofields in around the end of August of this year.
I don't think that they have any left.

rickk

Doug,

tell us a bit more about your rounds and the hardness of the lead that is being used for the bullets.

Might yours be extremely soft by any chance?

Most (all ?) factory loads are moderately hard... Lyman #2 or so. For no other reason that I can think of, it would be because it is the cheapest alloy to come by.

What are you running thru your 6-shooter?

Rick

Flint

Have a gunsmith check the cylinder/barrel gap.  If it's too tight or not parallel, he can square the barrel throat with a Brownell's or similat currer, or if he's a good old fashoined type, with a file.  Sounds like cylinder gap closing with heat and powder fouling.
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