Just a simple Russell knife.

[1961MJS]

Mustard or vinegar will give a PC finish. However be aware mustar bluing, salads etc will only work on carbon steel not stainless.

From what I've seen, the Russel's are all Carbon Steel, not Stainless.

Thanks

Mike

[Grogan]

Here's how some original I. Wilson's looked.

Nothing fancy about these, and they're not "browned" either.

[Paladin Gun For Hire]

Very nice, I would be happy to put that right next to my Randal and use the snot out of it.

[1961MJS]

Hi

I'm far enough along to show some of my Green River knives that I'm putting together for my son's old Scout Troop in Wichita.

The first picture is of a seven inch Green River Butcher blade with Osage Orange scales (from my backyard).  The Middle knife is a ten year old four inch ripper blade with maple handles.  The Right picture is of a six inch Green River boning blade with the cheapest walnut scales that Jantz sells.  The second picture is just a close up of the three handles.  The third picture shows an arrangement for a single sheath to hold all three blades.  The set will all have better walnut.  The patrols will just get a butcher blade and a ripper blade.

[1961MJS]

This post just shows a close up of all three handles.

Later

[1961MJS]

Hi

The two walnut handled blades I'm working on were sanded with 600 grit paper (the lightest Home Depot had), but they still show what look like knicks.  Should I be using Walnut wood filler on Walnut.  I'm sort of new to this and have worked with Maple, Pine, and Osage Orange before I tried Walnut.

Thanks

[Camano Ridge]

Show us some pictures if you can. You said you sanded with 600 grit. Did you start out with a courser grit first. Normaly I start out with 80 to 100 grit for shaping, move to 150 for smotthing and getting any smaller nicks left then 200, 400, by now yoou should have smotth wood starting to show a polish. 600 should start to show a very nice polish you can go higher if you want. If I am using Highly figured wood I will go 1500 grit or higher.

Because you say there are nicks my guess is you did not start out with course enough grit to take out the nicks and imperfections. On the other hand if these are Green river style knives and not a show knife you might want to leave the nicks alone to give the knife character.

[1961MJS]

Show us some pictures if you can. You said you sanded with 600 grit. Did you start out with a courser grit first. Normaly I start out with 80 to 100 grit for shaping, move to 150 for smotthing and getting any smaller nicks left then 200, 400, by now yoou should have smotth wood starting to show a polish. 600 should start to show a very nice polish you can go higher if you want. If I am using Highly figured wood I will go 1500 grit or higher.

Because you say there are nicks my guess is you did not start out with course enough grit to take out the nicks and imperfections. On the other hand if these are Green river style knives and not a show knife you might want to leave the nicks alone to give the knife character.

Hi

I started out with 80 grit on a belt sander to shape, and went down from there.  The wood feels VERY smooth.  Can I get 1500 grit sand paper from Jantz?  I hadn't looked.  Home Depot / Lowe's / Walmart are kind of sparse even on 600 grit sandpaper. 

I'll take a picture when I get home.  I experimented with painting a fairly thick layer of Tung Oil Finish on the top and letting it dry, but it didn't work that well.  If I can do it tonight I will, otherwise pictures will be next week.

The knives are for the Scout Patrol Boxes, and one for me so they'll eventually have lots of character.

Thanks

[1961MJS]

Hi

I DID work out one problem.  I'm using the last bit of a pint of Tung Oil Finish and it's getting thick.  I'll put a couple of teaspoons of paint thinner in it tonight.  I figured this out by using a little of a new can and it's MUCH thinner.

Later

[Bruce W Sims]

Hi, Folks:

I'm not here to rain on anyone's parade but I recently purchased a very nice "sticking knife" and am
looking to detail it a bit. That said I'm curious about the following.
a.) Since there is no guard on my double-edged knife I am particularly concerned about having a good grip so.
     1.) Why are you folks polishing these handles like they were Bowling Alleys?
      2.) I think a bound leather grip would be best but I can't find any info on how such is done. My knife has two slabs held in place by two brass rivets.
b.) I will hand-stitch a nice sheath for this but most of the patterns I am finding are for a single-edge knife or are
intended to be worn around the neck on a thong. I'd like to find a decent belt-sheath pattern for what is
essentially a spear-point knife.  Thoughts?

I don't need to age the blade or anything. I would just like it to fit-in a bit better with the rest of my 1870-s personna.

Best Wishes,

Bruce

[Blair]

Bruce,

Got photos you can post of what your talking about?
This may help folks address your questions.
My best,
Blair

[St. George]

Make your own pattern by using a piece of cardboard, folding it, and placing the blade where you want it, then mark off enough room for the lacing/stitching holes and belt loop.

Add decorations and fringe as desired.

And if you don't want a smooth handle and can't figure out something simple like wrapping wetted leather around it and securing it by pulling it through a loop until tight and letting it dry hard, then get a couple of high-topped brass tacks and put them in place to give you a grip - three per side should do it.

This isn't rocket science - any Boy Scout can show you how, or you can look at your public library under 'Indian Crafts' to see numerous examples of simple leatherwork.

Scouts Out!

[Camano Ridge]

I was going to suggest wrapping it in wet raw hide and using brass tacks . It would still be nice to see a picture to give you some more ideas espescialy for the sheath. Go to Chuck Burrows site http://www.wrtcleather.com/ and spend an hour or so looking at his knives and gallerys. Many of his might be a little over the top, however they can be simlified and will possibly give you some ideas.

[Bruce W Sims]

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I'm posting a link to PHOTOBUCKET so you can get an idea of what I am talking about.
The knife is a double-edged spear-point with a simple wooden handle. I saw a very nice, simple
drop-loop sheath on

http://www.westernleatherholster.com/western-leather-holsters/
(See: KS-3; KS-6)

and I feel myself moving that way as there would be no problem with wearing it regardless of the belt. Of course the problem is that this little dandy is razor-sharp on both edges so I imagine a blade-catcher in my future.

Hope this helps.

Best Wishes,

Bruce

[1961MJS]

Hi, Folks:
...
I    1.) Why are you folks polishing these handles like they were Bowling Alleys?
...
Best Wishes,

Bruce

Hi Bruce,

I'll just comment on the one part above.  There are a few reasons:

1.  I put a lot of linseed and stung oil finish on my kitchen knives like the Russell Green River blades to make the handle somewhat water resistant.
2.  I also do it because it is prettier.
3.  I also guess I'm following the crowd, most knives pictures show finished wood.   

Later

[Bruce W Sims]

Thanks, Mike:

After you do your treatment is there anything in particular you do to make sure you
have a good grip? Thoughts? I'm thinking of binding my handle with either a leather or
cord wrap....


Best Wishes,

Bruce

[1961MJS]

Thanks, Mike:

After you do your treatment is there anything in particular you do to make sure you
have a good grip? Thoughts? I'm thinking of binding my handle with either a leather or
cord wrap....


Best Wishes,

Bruce

Hi Bruce

Not really, I was told on the Bullseye-L forum that even wood coated with Tung oil gave a good grip and so far that's been right.  Of course my 1911's grips are checkered, but they still grip when wet.  I've been using several of my knives and I'm confortable with the grip even when it's wet.

Just my $0.02

[1961MJS]

Hi

These two are a 7 inch Russel Green River Butcher blade and a 4 inch Ripper blade.  Both handles are curly maple treated with Aquis Fortis (weak nitric acid).  In order to get the darker color, you heat the wood.  I'm concerned that I've melted at least some of the epoxy in heating the handles.  Home Depot doesn't carry anything in the glue realm that seems to be heat resistant.

Any ideas?

[Sir Charles deMouton-Black]

I saw a reference on "Ebonizer" (or Ebenezer??) in a PopMech article within the last month or so.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Steel-Wool-and-Vinegar-Wood-AgingEbonizingWeathe/

Sounds like "vinegaroon" used as a traditional leather dye? As a leather dye, I can vouch for it, but I have not tried it on wood. It sounds like it will work, after some trials on scrap

[Camano Ridge]

Vinegaroon can be used on wood here is a thread from blade forum. Chuck burrows gives his recommendations. There are some examples of wood treated with Roon. http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/823443-Vinegaroon-on-wood