Quality Bag Punch

Started by JD Alan, March 22, 2010, 10:13:02 AM

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JD Alan

Howdy Gentlemen, I've got a question.

Does anyone have any experience comparing Tandy's heavy duty bag punches with Osborne or any other brand?

I know generally speaking Osborne is going to produce a higher quality tool, but I'm wondering about this specific tool. I bought a 3/4 in punch from Tandy to use for weaving cartridge loops, and It doesn't punch all that well as far as I'm concerned. I am using a very solid surface so I don't think bounce is an issue.

I'm trying to punch through 8-9 oz leather, adding loops to badge holders. Any suggestions would be most appreciated. 
The man with an experience is never at the mercy of a man with an argument.

knucklehead

JD,

i use the same bag punches osborne, they need to be sharpened.
i have the same issues hard to punch through the leather.
i did purchase a video from hidecrafter on sharpening leather tools. i need to sharpen the bag punches.

I'M #330 DIRTY RAT.

Ten Wolves Fiveshooter



         I polish mine, and dampen my leather first, and they work fine.
NRA, SASS# 69595, NCOWS#3123 Leather Shop, RATTS# 369, SCORRS, BROW, ROWSS #40   Shoot Straight, Have Fun, That's What It's All About

Dalton Masterson

Are you talking about the black ones they sell? I have been using them, and they all need sharpened badly. I basically end up reshaping mine. The last one I got a few weeks back had a nick in the curve part of the blade, that made me have to file down and resharpen. Works pretty good now in 9-10 oz, with 2 whacks of the maul.

I do have one of the fancy Al Stohlman polished ones. Its the same way. It needs sharpened badly too.

SASS #51139L
Former Territorial Governor of the Platte Valley Gunslingers (Ret)
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SCORRS
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44 spoke, and it sent lead and smoke, and 17 inches of flame.
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cowboy316

i agree with Dalton the heavy duty bag punchs are in need of serious help in the sharp department im still workin on mine and getting frustrated with it im no good at sharpenin things LOL
Cowboy316

JD Alan

Well, at least I'm not alone!. I have a hard enough time sharpening straight edges; I don't even want to think about round ones :o

Rod, I thought about dampening the leather, but I was concerned about shape issues; I guess I'll give that a try. How do you polish the inside, if you do?

Kuncklehead, I assume that sharpening video included things round, like various punches?

I wonder if anyone has a Weaver Master tool punch?

Thanks guys, I appreciate the comeback, JD 
The man with an experience is never at the mercy of a man with an argument.

Ten Wolves Fiveshooter




   JD, I polish the outside of mine on a power buffing and polishing wheel, just like I do my round knife, it makes a ton of difference, and after a while if it starts to get harder to punch through, I polish it again, just like you would your round knife, it really helps to keep a sharp edge. I dampen my leather with a wet sponge, just enough to soften the leather a bit, that also helps to get a smooth cut, IMHO.
NRA, SASS# 69595, NCOWS#3123 Leather Shop, RATTS# 369, SCORRS, BROW, ROWSS #40   Shoot Straight, Have Fun, That's What It's All About

outrider

JD,

As the others have mentioned...these are cutting tools just like a round knife or a straight knife and they have to be stropped every once in awhile.  If you want real quality punches...you may want to entertain the idea of buying some of the "Master" tools from Weaver.  They are expensive but they are also very good.  I am slowly but surely replacing all of my punches and buying the Master brand.  The entire set is well over $500.00 so I am buying them one or two at a time.  I keep the others for back ups
Outrider  (formerly "Dusty Dick" out of PA.)
SASS #2353
BOLD #895
Custom Leathersmith
Ocoee Rangers

JD Alan

Thanks 10 Wolves and Outrider for your expertise. I wondered if those Weavers were worth the $$$.

I guess I've got to get a buffing wheel of some sort set up. My buddy with the paper wheel set up is not available that much

Any recomendations? I've got a standard 2 wheel grinder I'm not doing anything with.

Thanks very much, JD   
The man with an experience is never at the mercy of a man with an argument.

cowboywc

Quote from: JD Alan on March 22, 2010, 01:01:00 PM
Thanks 10 Wolves and Outrider for your expertise. I wondered if those Weavers were worth the $$$.

I guess I've got to get a buffing wheel of some sort set up. My buddy with the paper wheel set up is not available that much

Any recomendations? I've got a standard 2 wheel grinder I'm not doing anything with.

Thanks very much, JD   

Howdy JD
Watch for UPS around Fri.
WC
Leather by WC / Standing Bear's Trading Post

outrider

I would like to try that paper wheel someday..but for now I strop everything by hand with rouge
Outrider  (formerly "Dusty Dick" out of PA.)
SASS #2353
BOLD #895
Custom Leathersmith
Ocoee Rangers

Springfield Slim

I punch out mine with the leather on a white plastic kitchen type cutting board on top of an old steel bench grinder stand. I also use a 1.5 lb lead hammer. Lots of momentum against a solid base. Sharpening helps, so does some beeswax on the blade if it is a hole punch. 
Full time Mr. Mom and part time leatherworker and bullet caster

Arizona Cattleman

 ;D  What a timley post, I have the same prob, and had purchase some large punches on e-bay, but they need sharpening.  Soooo.. I just bought a 6" Buffer at Harbor Freight, $49.00 and some red rouge and white alum oxide, and I am going to spend the next few days sharpening stuff.  I also want to order the paper wheel system.

AC
SASS Member #86387
NRA Member
USCCA Member

Devil Anse Hatfield

We had a Poplar stump belt buckle high that we used for any punch type work . Put the smack down with a heavy rawhide hammer. Right into the wood . They were weaver pro line punches I dont remember having to sharpen or buff any of them .

TN Mongo

Besides sharpening, using a heavy maul helps.  I also like the soft poly white plastic boards from Tandy.  They work a whole lot better than the rubber mats I use to use years ago.

Ten Wolves Fiveshooter

Quote from: TN Mongo on March 22, 2010, 05:33:59 PM
Besides sharpening, using a heavy maul helps.  I also like the soft poly white plastic boards from Tandy.  They work a whole lot better than the rubber mats I use to use years ago.
\\


    +1  the poly boards work the best, with these punches, being in the meat business all those years, I have some that they replaced with new, there about an inch thick, 24"x24 " I have two of these, an I'm looking for more to cover my large cutting table, I'll get lucky one of these days.

NRA, SASS# 69595, NCOWS#3123 Leather Shop, RATTS# 369, SCORRS, BROW, ROWSS #40   Shoot Straight, Have Fun, That's What It's All About

knucklehead

I'M #330 DIRTY RAT.

KidTerico

I bought 2 comlete sets of Weaver Because I thought I woud be sharping all the itme , I havent had to sharpen yet. Dampen leather like  TW said and I dont know how long they will stay sharp. I use mine a lot more than most do. KT
Cheer up things could be worse, sure enough I cheered up and they got worse.

JD Alan

Well Shoot WC, I wasn't fishin for free stuff! In any even that's mighty kind of you. I had Oregon Leather (Not Tandy) order a weaver Master tool bag punch today. I trust Outrider; if he says they are worth it then they are worth it, period!. Until then I will polish my Tandy model, dampen the leather and see how it goes.

Kid Terico generously sent me some tools to give to a couple of budding leatherworkers in my church. I've been giving tools away too, so one more bag punch will be leaving me soon.

Thanks everyone for all the great info. Knucklehead, I will most definitely get the sharpening DVD, and I need to get your Knife Sheath DVD back to you as well (Haven't forgotten it  :D)   

Once again Thanks WC, JD
The man with an experience is never at the mercy of a man with an argument.

cowboywc

Leather by WC / Standing Bear's Trading Post

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