The holster and the belt as a whole.

amin ledbetter · February 21, 2010, 04:06:16 PM

I have looked to try and find the answer to my question elsewhere but I have been unsuccessful. So again I turn to the experts! That's all of you on this forum by the way!

All seriousness though, is it common with a compete rig to some how attach the holster to the gun belt, either via rivets or stitching? Or are they commonly left as separate pieces.

I guess the reason I ask is, I have my belt finished and I tried it on with the right side holster I have finished, and it almost seems to move around to much on the belt. I don't know! Maybe this is a common problem and I have done something or not done something to cause it. Any advice, is as always pards, greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

St. George · February 21, 2010, 04:17:43 PM

Not being able to see your holster, but figuring it's a pretty standard style - do two things:

Cinch the belt tighter and put a cartridge 'behind' the rear edge of the holster to 'anchor' it in place.

Try that.

Vaya,

Scouts Out!

TN Mongo · February 21, 2010, 05:11:31 PM

Most cowboy action shooters like to be able to shift their holsters back and forth on the belt. They do not, however, want their holsters to pull up with the revolver when they draw. Many top competition holster makers will put a small piece of leather on the front side of the holster skirt to act as a belt guide. This extra piece of leather allows the shooter to move the holster back and forth but eliminates up and down movement. There are a couple of good methods to do this. Two of the best are well illustrated on Kirpatrick Leather website: www.kirkpatrickleather.com

Go to the Old West collection and click on the Long Hunter model. I've used similar belt guides on my holsters (two different types are displayed).

Ten Wolves Fiveshooter · February 21, 2010, 05:46:08 PM

amin, there are different ways to do all things, I've used rawhide through slits in the the skirt to fasten things up, but what I do now is build a lock in the back of the skirt to secure the holster, like TN Mongo pointed out you want to be able to move the holster around when in the game, but being able to reposition them is a nice advantage, here are some pictures of how I make my locks, it keeps the holster secure to the belt, but allows movement to the side if you want, but your holster won't be moving freely from side to side like holsters without this lock.

Regards

tEN wOLVES

Ten Wolves Fiveshooter · February 21, 2010, 05:47:09 PM

MORE PICTURES

Ten Wolves Fiveshooter · February 21, 2010, 05:50:11 PM

more

TN Mongo · February 21, 2010, 06:06:11 PM

Good stuff Ten Wolves!!

Ten Wolves Fiveshooter · February 21, 2010, 06:09:53 PM

Thanks Mongo

tEN

Curley Cole · February 21, 2010, 07:06:11 PM

What others above have said. But I know some folks have used chicago screws to postition a holster on their belt. I like mine to move around abit. When I go to the shootin line, I will shift my crossdraw closer to the middle of my body, and often times I will shift my strong side holster back a bit. This is so they are where I want to draw them from, and they move to a slightly more comfortable position while walking standing etc.

good question tho
curley

GunClick Rick · February 21, 2010, 07:22:27 PM

I know gun spinners like them fixed so they are always at the same spot everytime.

amin ledbetter · February 21, 2010, 08:57:32 PM

Thanks guys for all the reply's I knew I could count on you all to head me in the right direction on this.

Thanks Mongo for the link to Longhunters holsters. I see the block set up under the belt in the holster, looks like that would do the job. I wander if it is sewed to the flap and the back side of the holster body or just to the flap? I guess it could be riveted also. I really like the hammer thong on that rig also! Very cool idea.

Ten Wolves! Thanks for the close up pics of your lock setup. Is the lock leather covered metal? or is it leather formed in that shape? I like that design, and I think I could easily adapt it to the finished right hand holster as well as the unfinished left hand without any major problems. If it is leather covered metal what glue did you use to secure the leather to the metal?

Thanks again pards!

JD Alan · February 21, 2010, 10:08:20 PM

10 Wolves, that side shot showing the wedge under the tab answered a question for me. Great idea and great pics. Thanks for taking time to do that, JD.

Ten Wolves Fiveshooter · February 21, 2010, 11:11:48 PM

Quote from: amin ledbetter on February 21, 2010, 08:57:32 PM
Thanks guys for all the reply's I knew I could count on you all to head me in the right direction on this.

Thanks Mongo for the link to Longhunters holsters. I see the block set up under the belt in the holster, looks like that would do the job. I wander if it is sewed to the flap and the back side of the holster body or just to the flap? I guess it could be riveted also. I really like the hammer thong on that rig also! Very cool idea.

Ten Wolves! Thanks for the close up pics of your lock setup. Is the lock leather covered metal? or is it leather formed in that shape? I like that design, and I think I could easily adapt it to the finished right hand holster as well as the unfinished left hand without any major problems. If it is leather covered metal what glue did you use to secure the leather to the metal?

Thanks again pards!

amin, I don't use metal, the pitch you see is caused by the belt thickness pushing the tab outward, I use of a filler piece of leather half the thickness of the belt, the tab its self is 12/15 ounce saddle skirting, nice and thick, I put a few grooves in it so it can bend outward when the belt is placed in the lock. the filler doesn't allow the belt to sit completely down until the tab is pushed away, if you wanted more pitch, you can make the tab longer, the thickness of the tab over the bullet loops works out great, you can do the same thing on a plain belt, by just adding a leather block to the tip of the tab, or you can line a piece of bent spring metal and use that too.

JD, I'm glad that helped you pard, some times seeing is the only way to understand.

tEN wOLVES

MontanaSlick · February 21, 2010, 11:25:12 PM

TW, more piks Pard, great leather and good ideas.

Thanks

MS

Ten Wolves Fiveshooter · February 21, 2010, 11:29:27 PM

Thanks Slick

tEN

EE Taft · February 22, 2010, 08:49:20 AM

Very nice design TW.

~EE Taft~

Farmer · February 22, 2010, 02:18:51 PM

I normally will punch two small holes in the holster skirt, and two matching holes on the belt,...and then I tie them together with a piece of latigo or rawhide lace. It's removeable, cheap and easy for all parties concerned.

JD Alan · February 22, 2010, 09:59:11 PM

Farmer, how do you know where to punch those holes if you are selling on E Bay? It seems like each guy might want a different location, but I could be wrong ( I was once in 1962)

I think it's a great idea. I'm just not tricky enough to figure those kind of things out.

Farmer · February 23, 2010, 11:22:44 AM

Quote from: JD Alan on February 22, 2010, 09:59:11 PM
Farmer, how do you know where to punch those holes if you are selling on E Bay? It seems like each guy might want a different location, but I could be wrong ( I was once in 1962)

I think it's a great idea. I'm just not tricky enough to figure those kind of things out.

I just put it on like I'd be wearing it,...and set it dead center on each side,....or one side ,..depending on the setup.
Right where my hand falls down at rest if you know what I mean.

JD Alan · February 23, 2010, 02:40:39 PM

I could see that working if the guy you made the rig for was the same size as you. If you had a 33 waist and the guy wanting the rig has a 52 waist, I'm not sure it would work out as well.

Don't you just love people like me with their picky questions

Remember that I think your work is great and I like the idea of the holes in the belt!