Edge Beveling, and other advice needed.

amin ledbetter · February 04, 2010, 10:29:17 PM

Well I went and done it. I beveled the edges on both Holster kits. That is not an easy task. Is there a secret to getting a nice perfectly even? Don't know what I'm doin wrong. Heck I think it's safe to say I just don't know what I'm doin! Period!

I slicked the edges a bit and worked them with with some Gum Tragacanth. That stuff is kinda cool! Slicks the edge up nice. It made the uneven bevel less noticeable that's for sure. I used a number 2 beveler. It seemed very hard to keep moving and it wanted to snag from time to time. Any advice??

Also I will hopefully be starting the tooling on the main portion of the holsters next week. ( Finally getting the rest of the stamp tools I needed ) I know I will not be able to sit and do the entire pattern in one sitting. So I will have to do some one evening, then pick back up the following night and so on until it is done. What are the rules , or techniques when it comes to re-moistening the leather when I pick back up with the tooling?? Is there any draw backs, or problems that could arise by doing this?

Dalton Masterson · February 04, 2010, 10:43:56 PM

You need to sharpen your beveler, and practice on some scrap. I use a piece of cotton string tied to my bench to sharpen. I run the string through a bit of red rouge, which basically strops your beveler to sharpness.

Also, I have better luck if my leather is just a little bit damp. Not damp enough that you are going to stamp it, but give it a spritz of water with a spray bottle, and bevel.

Some guys will put their cased leather in plastic bag in the fridge until they come back to it. If you remoisten too many times, it can make your leather seem to harden up. (So I have read, I just recase it the next day myself)
DM

cowboywc · February 05, 2010, 04:22:43 AM

Howdy
Dalton has given very good advice. The only thing I can add is learning to keep the proper angle when using the edger. It takes practice and then some more.
WC

Dalton Masterson · February 05, 2010, 08:38:31 AM

To add to what WC said about the angle. Practice being consistent in how you hold it. You will get varying degrees of cuts with it if you let the handle move up and down in relation to your piece.
DM

JD Alan · February 05, 2010, 08:59:13 AM

Amin (great handle by the way) you're gonna keep hearin practice practice practice. There just isn't any other way to pick up the needed skills. You can gets lots of great advice here, the best as far as I'm concerned, but after hearing or reading it, nothing beats putting your hands on tools and leather to get a feel for what you need to do.

I'm new to this, and I've made about a dozen holsters now plus a few belts. The last holster I made is the only one I'm reasonably happy with. Now maybe I'm too picky or self-critical, but I learned something from each holster I made; mostly how NOT to do something!

Don't be too disapointed if your first attempt doesn't turn out like you want, the experience of building it will work in your favor for the next one.

Good luck, JD

Ten Wolves Fiveshooter · February 05, 2010, 10:10:52 AM

Howdy Amin

Dalton and WC, and JD, have pointed you in the right direction, with more practice and hands on, and following these suggestions, you'll get the hang of it in no time.

tEN wOLVES

Cutter Carl · February 05, 2010, 01:25:02 PM

Amin,

That's some good advice already posted. Something that helps me. I stand at my bench when using the beveler and also when cutting leather. Seems easier to do even with the bench being built to allow working when seated. Also I use a #3 beveler most of the time, just seems to make a better looking bevel on my work, IMHO.

There is some really good tutorials at www.leatherworker.net. There is a good one on casing leather that also covers your questions on keeping it in condition for tooling and not drying out between sessions.

Keep at it, just like the rest of us, you are your worst critic.

amin ledbetter · February 05, 2010, 05:52:20 PM

Thanks a bunch guys! I bookmarked the the leatherworkers website CC! Thanks. I will check that site out later! I ordered a remnant bag from Tandy so I will practice my beveling some more when it gets here. I was wandering if the leather needed to be moistened before beveling. I will try that as well. I think I have some string that will fit within the beveler tips. I will sharpen it tonight and try another piece of scrap leather I have.

I will heed you all's advice and keep practicing. I may not have got it perfect my first time, but I dang sure had fun doin it!

GunClick Rick · February 07, 2010, 12:27:02 AM

Is beveling the last thing you guys do?After the holster or whatever is sewn and ready to go?Ned Buckshot does really nice edging..

Dalton Masterson · February 07, 2010, 12:33:14 AM

GCR, on a holster, I bevel the parts that are hard to get to first, such as the curves around the trigger/hammer area. Then I stitch.
The rest of the stuff I bevel after stitching, as I usually end up touching up with a sanding drum before I am happy with my stitching.
DM

GunClick Rick · February 07, 2010, 12:48:52 AM

Got it.Well i aquired a pattern and Ned sent me a beveler and a punch,i guess that's what it is,everytime i pick it up i stick myself with it,sharp man...Guess i'll give it a go at some point..

MontanaSlick · February 07, 2010, 05:18:55 PM

Quote from: Dalton Masterson on February 07, 2010, 12:33:14 AM
GCR, on a holster, I bevel the parts that are hard to get to first, such as the curves around the trigger/hammer area. Then I stitch.
The rest of the stuff I bevel after stitching, as I usually end up touching up with a sanding drum before I am happy with my stitching.
DM

What you just said Dalton, I only fergot once.

Finally found out what my dremmel was for. Duh

What kin I say after 52 yrs. of leather.

knucklehead · February 07, 2010, 05:42:44 PM

everyone gave great adivse on edge beveling.
i think i use the #3 beveler as well.
i have used the tandy edge beveler but do not care for it cause i always gouged a line on the leather from the tip of the edger.

also its not that sharp.

i picked up a barry king edge beveler, the tip was bent up so to aid in doing curved areas. also keeps the tool tip away from gouging the leather.
i will not use my tandy beveler again after using the barry king beveler.

hidecrafter has a dvd on sharpening leather tools. you may want to pick it up. good information.

barry king and hidecrafter both have websites. www.barrykingtools.com
just google hidecrafter to get the website i forget what it is exactly

Dalton Masterson · February 07, 2010, 09:27:12 PM

I made my own tight curve beveler last week. I took one of the extra bisonette bevelers I picked up an auction last fall, and shortened the prongs until they were almost nothing, then polished and rounded the heck out of all of the edges that might touch leather, other than the cutting edge. It seems to work very well, and is at a steep angle, so it cuts the inside curves very well. Not so easy to use on straight parts tho.

DM

Slowhand Bob · February 08, 2010, 09:23:10 AM

I just mentioned this on another post earlier, sometimes your results can be as simple as needing to change the grip to accomodate the best angle for the tool. For me, and this is an important concept, the cheaper craftool edgers were a bargain because they always cut well at the angle that is most natural for me. Sharpening and good steal are probably the most important aspects of good tool performance and you cant have one without the other. There are two really good ways to go after edge bevelers, one is the edge beveler sharpening stand(?) sold by Weaver Leather and the other is the powered leather sharpening wheels sold by high end wood carving suppliers. I will try to post a picture of the one made by Weaver, its very simple and very handy. Also get a copy of the LEATHERCRAFT TOOLS book by Stohlman, its one of the three best basics books on the market.

JD Alan · February 08, 2010, 10:03:37 AM

Amin, if you are trying to bevel dry leather, that's going to be your biggest challenge. You need to get it cased (dampened correctly) before beveling. I'm no expert on getting the leather cased properly, but if you wet down the edges, then let them come back to the color of the rest of the leather while feeling cool to the touch you will be in the ballpark

Some guys wet the entire piece each time, so as not to leave lines on the leather. You might want to do a search on this site for Casing Leather.

If you plan on doing any more holsters or leatherwork in general, I can tell you the best investment I made was purchasing Chuck Burrow's holster making DVD. That was money well spent.

amin ledbetter · February 08, 2010, 02:07:39 PM

Quote from: JD Alan on February 08, 2010, 10:03:37 AM
Amin, if you are trying to bevel dry leather, that's going to be your biggest challenge. You need to get it cased (dampened correctly) before beveling. I'm no expert on getting the leather cased properly, but if you wet down the edges, then let them come back to the color of the rest of the leather while feeling cool to the touch you will be in the ballpark

Some guys wet the entire piece each time, so as not to leave lines on the leather. You might want to do a search on this site for Casing Leather.

If you plan on doing any more holsters or leatherwork in general, I can tell you the best investment I made was purchasing Chuck Burrow's holster making DVD. That was money well spent.

Where is the best place to find ( buy ) Chuck Burrows video from???

Slowhand Bob · February 08, 2010, 02:26:25 PM

http://www.wrtcleather.com/

Dalton Masterson · February 08, 2010, 03:53:44 PM

Yep. Thats direct from Chuck.....
Well worth getting.
DM

TN Mongo · February 11, 2010, 07:52:19 PM

If you do leather work for any amount of time, you will eventually have a sanding drum or belt sander and a power burnisher.

But you can still do an awful nice job by hand if you use some sandpaper after you use your edger. If you have a lot of leather to even up, start with 100 grit paper and then go to 200 or 220. Don't be to aggressive; take your time and just get it even and nice and round. You can finish the sanding with some 400 grit (I go all the way to 600 grit paper). This gives me a nice smooth edge.

Then I dampen the edge and rub it with a small piece of natural colored canvas. You can get a great looking edge by proper sanding and hand burnishing after you use your edger.