How to use EVOO as finish?

[larrupin]

Hey pards, I do alot of reading but very little posting and I have tried to search for this but just keep finding bits and pieces.

I have made a few sets of holsters and used atom wax and super sheen etc as finishes but I am making a set of holsters right now and I want to try using EVOO as finish but want some tips on the process.

I have carved and molded the holster.
Does holster need to be completely dry before I oil?
How many coats?
Do you topcoat with something else?

Thanks so much for your help

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

Howdy Larrupin

  Welcome to the Leather Shop forum, in answer to your question, I like to let my leather completely dry before I do any oiling, my reason for this is I want the holster to keep its form after I have wet molded it, I assume you will be wet molding, anyway after the leather has set up and dried, you can then apply as many coat as desired to get the depth and darkness your looking for, but let the EVOO, or Neatsfoot oil dry between coats, you don't want to over do it, and cause your leather to become too soft and flimsy, for me about three light coats and drying in between has worked well for me, for a top coat/ final coat/finish coat, I use Skidmores Leather Cream, it makes a great final coat and protects well, and down the road if it needs a little more conditioning just rum in some more Skidmores, this will help keep your leather looking natural and beautiful, without having a glossy shin to it, I just rum it in and let it dry over night and then buff it up to a nice sheen, usually about three coats too. I used this method on dyed and natural veg-tan leathers, with good results. This is the way I do my leather, every one has there own method, but a lot of pards find this method works well for them too, hope this will help.
       
             You will also want to visit our FAC/AND HOW TOO's thread, there's a lot of information there as well
                         http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php/topic,13207.0.html

                          Let us see your new rig when you finish, we love pictures around here

                                       tEN wOLVES    

[Marshal Will Wingam]

I use Lexol conditioner after all the dying and such is dry. Once that has soaked in completely, I put a LIGHT coat of EVOO on and buff it after it has soaked in. That gives a nice soft luster to the finish.

[Arizona Cattleman]

Hey Larrupin, I used a few more coats than TW, but let dry and then placed in the sun for a few hours between coats.  I keep a rag with a lite amount of EEVO in it to rub down the leather every once in a while.  I did not put a finish coat on the leather like Skidmores.  This rig will darken with time.

AC

[GunClick Rick]

I have an older holster that's a little dry,i can rub a little on it?

[Freedom]

I have to "Very Respectfully" say that Olive oil is for salads ....100% pure NeatsFoot oil is for leather

I don't wait for my leather to completely dry before applying oil.. I have found that seams can sometimes open up if the leather is allowed to dry too much before the oil is applied. Leather can also tend to "drink-up" too much oil if it is really dry.. the moisture in the leather seems to inhibit it from being over oiled...(over oiling is a big cause of over softning and a floppy product)

+1 on the Skidmore's,,,this is what I would use Rick

[larrupin]

Thanks for your help and input!

I just wanted to make sure I wasn't skipping anything important in the process.

I have made a few holsters but this is only my second set to floral carve and I wanted to go with a more natural finish so the carving would show up better.  I really like floral carving but I have a long way to go to get them to stand out like I would like them to.

Pics below of the current holster, no finish yet, three of the rigs I have made, the bottom one is my sons, he shoots b-Western and one of the holsters from my first attempt at floral carving.  Sorry for poor pic quality, taken in my basement with a cell phone camera.

Thanks for a helpful and information packed forum!!!

[Freedom]

Wow that is some nice work!.. some guys just make it look easy ... love the old finish on the 1st holster.

That B western looks reall fancy.. love to see a bigger pic of it if you get a chance.
Wes

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

 Very nice, Larrupin  

     That center West Texas rig is my cup of tea, but really, nice work all around, if you are going to use EVOO, make sure it is extra virgin, and not just olive oil, like Freedom says the olive oil is for salads, but Extra Virgin Olive Oil, works fine on Veg -tan leathers, and also like Marshal Will pointed out, a good coat of Lexoil conditioner after wetting or drying, work great too, just don't put too much of it in areas that you want to be firmer like the rim of the bucket, or it won't keep its shape for long, you will find that sun tanning as AC said  will also darken your leather, if the suns out, if not it will turn when you do get out in the sun, you can do this with EVOO or Neatsfoot, during the Summer months I like to suntan between coats.

                       Thanks for sharing, and keep up the good work


                              tEN wOLVES

[ChuckBurrows]

I have to "Very Respectfully" say that Olive oil is for salads ...100% pure NeatsFoot oil is for leather

Olive oil has been used for leather since at least the time of the Ancient Greeks and was used in the Old West as well based on purchase records from various shops. Even more common than neats foot oild or EVOO during the historic western period was rendered beef tallow (basically the same as hog lard, just a different source.) They often mixed the tallow with oil and beeswax to create dubbin and it was considered one of the best conditioners of all by those in the harness and saddlery trade. Skidmores and Montana Pitchblend are some "modern" versions of dubbin.

Pure Neatsfoot oil today is almost all made from refined hog lard or bovine tallow (this info per the manufacturers)...............traditional Neats Foot oil was made from the lower leg bones of cattle mostly, but since the 1930's various other sources have been used to make it.

As for using EVOO - use it like any oil as a conditoner - LIGHT coats are best.......

[MontanaSlick]

I agree with Chuck, EVOO, I'll take it over animal fat anytime. A little daba daba do will do too.

[larrupin]

Mr. Burrows,

My hat is off to you Sir!
I never did any leatherwork until I started cowboy shooting and I was too cheap to spend much on holsters so I started searching on the web for how to do leather work.
Your tutorial on making a knife sheath (and the stitching pony) was my intro and made me feel like I might be able to give it a try.  I have heard nothing but good things about your DVD's as well and they are on my short list to aquire soon.

I have been regularly drooling over your website pictures ever since.  I really like the aged finishes and authenticity of your work, KUDOS to you! 

It amazes me how many professionals leatherworkers are active and amazingly generous with their time and knowledge on this board.  Thanks from all of us!

Larrupin

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

            I had to split this thread after this last post, again it got off topic, the post that were split were sent to the " Show your Stuff "thread,

                             Pards please try to stay on topic with these threads.

                                        Thanks ahead of time for your cooperation

                                                  tEN wOLVES

[larrupin]

Another question on the EVOO finish.
Probably not too smart of a question but what the heck-

Since sunlight is in short supply right now would a UV grow light do any darkening like sunlight or is the
reaction with sunlight not UV related?

Thanks

Larrupin

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

       The UV and the warmth of the sun will help to oxidize the finish/color of the leather, I put my oil on in light coats, and let it penetrate into the leather before I put in the sun, otherwise wet oil in the hot glaring sun will cook the leather and darken it more than you want, I've never used a UV lamp on leather, but I would say keep a close look on the leather if you do, I know what UV lamps can do to human skin, and it aint pretty, I'd try a test piece of scrap leather of the same type you want to use. IMHO.

        Regards

       tEN wOLVES 

[larrupin]

Thanks TW!

These are actually fluorescent lights that my son uses to start seedlings in the basement, so pretty low energy, don't think they
are really going to have much effect but just thought I would check.

Larrupin

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

      In that case it can't hurt, when the sun does come out, just let your leather sit out  in it for a spell, I've done this over a period of several days to get the look I was after.

             Have fun, and let us know how it comes out

                      tEN wOLVES 

[Marshal Will Wingam]

I've darkened my leather when the dye was still wet and long before oiling or conditioning. at that point, it darkens quite fast. This holster was done that way. Notice that the leather around the strap is uneven. I had to keep turning it every few minutes to expose the leather as evenly as possible. I wanted the slightly uneven coloring for an effect.

[MontanaSlick]

Great effects there MW, and a nice holster I might add.
Saw the 1911 bunch on tv tonight, and some of those holster is a real work of art..
Still thinking about it.

MS

[GunClick Rick]

I got bottles of that stuff all over the kitchen,wife uses it to decorate her antique cupboard.Probably got a few more in the fridge One had balsamic vineger in it though.