Repairing a Spinning Chicago Screw

[JD Alan]

Guys, I have a problem with the holster I just built. It's the first time I've sandwiched a Chicago screw between the front and back of the holster, and one of them is spinning pretty free, so it won't snug up tight. I would imagine I'm not the first person to have this happen to him, so I'm thinking about injecting some sort of glue under the leather around the embedded post with a hypo & needle.

I thought I glued those down good, even getting glue under the heads. I'm using Tandy glue

[St. George]

Oddly enough - glue doesn't stick well to metal...

Try shortening the screw, so you have to really draw it up when you tighten it.

Good Luck!

Vaya,

Scouts Out!

[JD Alan]

I forgot to mention that this holster was made to swap out with a SAA holster in a Buscadero rig, so he will be using the screws on a semi regular basis.

[GunClick Rick]

When i had my first rig made i had the feller named Dave make it so i could change out the conchos if i wanted.

[Ned Buckshot]

her's what I have done to fix this very problem. Just a thin bead of super glue around the "barrel" of the screw where it comes through the leather and let it dry well. Be carefull not to get glue in the threads.

It's fixed it for me, maybe it will work for you?

Ned

[Slowhand Bob]

JD, its a bit problematic at best an for your needs I would give the super glue a try, as mentioned by Ned.  Using one of your heavy needles might let you poke and otherwise work a bit down between the shank and the leather.  Though it is not a problem or solution that you wish to pass along to someone else but, there is actually a pair of specialty pliers that does this job pretty good for the leatherworkers bench.  Another problem that is common with the Chicago screws nowadays is that they all seem to have sloppy threads and do not stay tensioned well.  I try to use blue Loctite and a small piece of leather, from the small hole punch, in the bottom of the hole, it lets you pull those threads tighter against each other.  For your purpose, either Chicago screws or tee nut with screw are great and the old line twenty four just cannot compare.     

[Trailrider]

I agree with the use of a superglue (cyanoacrylate).  You may need to experiment with different types if Krazy Glue doesn't do the job.  There are some thick types, probably available at your local hardware store or hobby shop.  CAUTION! Wear gloves (I buy the vinyl ones (NOT latex) at my local Walgreens.  They come in handy to keep leather dye off your hands, too, cleaning up doggie do-do, etc.), and PROTECT YOUR EYES FROM THE VAPORS!  When I work with CA glues, is use a full-face clear plastic mask (Sears, your hardware store, etc.)  Sounds like a lot of work and expense, but believe me, the gear comes in handy for a LOT of projects!

[Ned Buckshot]

I use Loctite Super glue, Ultra Gel. It's the Blue and Black bottle.

Works great on most anything you don't want to come apart.

Pretty thick so you may want to just put a little on some tin foil and use a toothpick to apply it, otherwise it can get messy in a HURRY!

Ned

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

JD, I've done what Slow Hand Bob suggest, and it works well, what has happened is you have bottomed out on the cylinder because it's closed, for this reason I usually use open ended Chicago screws on hard to get to areas. Do as Bob points out , and drop a punched piece of leather ( what comes out of your punch ), and carefully drop it down the screw hole, this will allow you to tighten up the screw, but if there is just too much screw left to be able to tighten it down, you will need to use a shorter screw or cut off the one you have, having that piece of leather in the cylinder should allow you to tighten it firmly, you could also make up a leather washer to take up the distance needed and put that under the screw head, I've done this too with good result. I also use BLUE Lock-Tite, but if this is going to be a screw that's being unscrewed over and over you might not want to put that much pressure on the tightness of the screw, it might cause the cylinder to spin again, if you just snug it down, you should be fine, but over tightening will cause the leather to compress, and after that it will be hard to keep tight.


                     tEN wOLVES

[outrider]

I have always had good luck with clear nail polish...also use it on the screws on my guns...holds well and if you have to loosen them they come loose alot easier than lock tite.

[Ned Buckshot]

Or JD if the screw is in fact too long just grind it down a bit and dress up the threads, that will easily take care of that problem!

Ned

[JD Alan]

Howdy guys, I really appreciate all the info, especially the comments about safety. I have a full face mask and some good gloves (not latex)
Ned, I've got the glue you are talking about, and the foil and toothpick are good ideas

Just to be clear I don't have a problem with the screw staying tight, the post is twisting between the face and the liner, with hardly any pressure on it at all. I have three screws embedded, and two of them are working fine.

Kid Terico gave me some ideas about the main seam, so I reworked it to be a little thinner and better looking. I also shaped the silver diamond on the keeper strap, and tightened it up. 

The before and after pictures are posted below. Hopefully you can see the difference. Thanks Terry for the other pointers as well.
Hopefully you tell which is before and which is after!




 

[Marshal Will Wingam]

Nice touches, JD. It looks really nice. Good work.

[JD Alan]

Thanks Marshall, I really appreciate Kid Terico giving me some pointers, including the issues with the edge.

I finally got that screw to settle down with some Loktite super glue in gel form. The new owner is very happy with the holster, and I got a chance to learn a few more things to do with leather.

Thanks for all the advice, JD

[Arizona Cattleman]

JD, nice holster.  You did a great job and KT is a great Pard to give constructive help because it did improve it a tad bit.  Keep up the good work.

AC

[Freedom]

Wow that looks great!! Love the spots and diamond!

One thing I keep on my bench for the chicago's is a small piece of innertube ruber. I can place the rubber under my thumb and it really gives me something to grip/press with..I have actually been able to strip the threads off of chicago's after they bottomed out with this method.. if she stops turnin before it is tight it is usually because something is too long.

On my thicker pieces I use a long thread and a short shank fiirst and then the next day remove it and add a shorter thread side and things will work better for me.

You can get them too tight and compress the leather to a point where the screws will pull right though leaving a big hole...

[MontanaSlick]

Changing the length of the screws is helpfull and at times I use a dab of rubber cement. Works great.

I tried cement and it's impossable to get the screw out if ya need to.


Screws fer thought.

Slick

[TN Mongo]

I've found that I have better results with using open ended (female sides) Chicago screws when I glue them between the main body of the holster and the lining.

A little tip for keeping the male end of Chicago screw from working lose is to wrap it with a little teflon tape.  It helps keep the screw in place and the screw can still easily be removed if necessary.

[Kid Cavalier]

Here's a pro trick for keeping the female part of a C-screw from rotating.  Don't use it! instead go to Lowe's, Home Depot, or your favorite hardware store and get one of these pronged flange nuts.  I don't remember what they are called in the stores but here is a picture.

If the prongs are too long for the thickness of your leather, just clip them short with nippers.  The female post pokes through to the face of the leather and gives you a solid place to screw the male part into.  No messy glue, stays in place for repeat uses. These come in various thread sizes so be sure to get the correct one. 

Hope this helps you on your next project.

Kid.........Now back to the bench

[MontanaSlick]

Dang, we lern sumtin everday, thanks Kid and TN.

I'm doing a lot less stitching and gone to the C-screws for my billets.