Advice needed on Project

JD Alan · January 13, 2010, 11:17:14 PM

Howdy Gents,

I've got a project here I could use a little advice on. I've been asked to create a 1911 holster to fit and look like an existing Buscadero rig, complete with buku spots (at least for me)

Tandy did not carry this size spots, so I bought them from Standard Rivet, along with a setter, which really works great.

Here's my question. As the photo shows, this is going to be a lined holster. The original one has Chicago screws embedded between the two layers of leather to attach the back to the front, a common practice. Problem? I've never tried this before.

Everyone says to cut the liner larger than front piece, which I understand. It seems that you measure carefully, punch the holes for the screws, place them in the holes, glue it up and slap it together. I'm concerned about aligning the two pieces and wondering if I'm missing anything than just to be extra careful.

If you can give me any hints on assembly I would appreciate it.

Thanks, JD

JD Alan · January 14, 2010, 01:11:44 AM

Well, just to confirm that I am not an intuitive person, I went back out to the shop after pondering this so called dilemma and figured out what to do. If I was intuitive I would have figured it out before resorting to writing this.

I honestly don't know if I over think or under think these things, but an engineer I am not. I would have a Duh! moment here, but it wouldn't do any good! I would delete this particular thread if I knew how.

Arizona Cattleman · January 14, 2010, 05:40:42 AM

JD, takin a break always helps me figure out a problem. There is no such thing as over thinking a problem, nobody gets the answer on the first try, ask anyone with a waste basket full of mistsakes. Keep up the good work

AC

Gun Butcher · January 14, 2010, 06:15:53 AM

JD, sometimes just getting it straight enough in your mind to write it down( or Type) will allow your brain to look at a problem a different way and Bam there is your answer.

JD Alan · January 14, 2010, 09:19:25 AM

I put one more coat of dye on the front last night, so I will start putting the spots on sometime late this afternoon or evening. I'm not sure what to do about the screws sticking out the back when I glue the two sides together, except try to cut around them.

If anyone has some imput on that aspect of this project: gluing the back to the front with Chicago screws sticking out I would appreciate it.

Thanks AC and GB for your comments.

Slowhand Bob · January 14, 2010, 01:45:00 PM

JD, not exactly sure that I understand the question but a couple of thoughts on this. When the option would allow the female part of a Chicago Screw to have its head sandwiched betweeb layers, such as a lined holster, I always use a Tee Nut with just the Screw from a Chicago set. The Chicago screw is much prettier than something from the hardware store BUT the Tee Nut offers many more advantages for this type construction. The Tee Nut can be set much flatter internally, eliminating a visible bump under the liner, they also do not turn while being tightened, like the Chicago's nut does, thanks to the barbs and the threads are not as sloppy as those in most Chicago nuts. I do clip about half of the Tee Nuts barbs off with end nippers to avoid the excess protrusion through the leather. Though I cut my liner slightly oversize, it has the pattern precisely outlined and I always go for that same precision in placement of the holster to that outline. Any through holes should line up correctly if everything is placed right and the pattern is correct. Probably the best visual example I have seen of performing this is in the John Bianchi tapes.

Marshal Will Wingam · January 14, 2010, 02:28:13 PM

Bob, the Tee Nut idea is a really good one. I've never buried Chicago screws for exactly the same factors that the Tee Nut works. Thanks for the tip.

Dalton Masterson · January 14, 2010, 03:06:42 PM

I have ground the chicago screw flat on other projects. Might work in this instance too. Never tried to trap one in leather before.
DM

Slowhand Bob · January 14, 2010, 03:56:35 PM

It is gives a very neat appearance to products that are not required to maintain any semblance of a historical appearance such as the competition rigs or those featuring a mechanical tension adjustment. I have the beginnings of both type projects started and will post some pictures whenever I get back to them. If they turn out well enough I will also post the patterns.

Ten Wolves Fiveshooter · January 14, 2010, 05:34:29 PM

Quote from: Slowhand Bob on January 14, 2010, 03:56:35 PM
It is gives a very neat appearance to products that are not required to maintain any semblance of a historical appearance such as the competition rigs or those featuring a mechanical tension adjustment. I have the beginnings of both type projects started and will post some pictures whenever I get back to them. If they turn out well enough I will also post the patterns.

Do you get your T-nuts any place special , or just any good hardware store.

tEN wOLVES

JD Alan · January 14, 2010, 05:46:14 PM

Not sure what a T nut is, but I need to find out pretty quick, because I need to get this thing done. I wonder what Mongo uses on the holsters he showed a picture of on that Metal Liner thread?

I need to be able to attach the back of the holster to the front in such a way that it will be reasonably easy to take apart and switch back and forth between the original SAA holster and the 1911. The current holster uses three embedded screws; two up near the throat of the holster and one directly below the keeper strap

The strap is put togehter with two large staples, and is tight enough that it won't slip past the screw sticking out below it.

Is there some other way I should consider attaching the back to the front besides screws?

Thanks

Marshal Will Wingam · January 14, 2010, 09:52:54 PM

JD, here's what a Tee Nut looks like.

Slowhand Bob · January 14, 2010, 10:52:49 PM

Thanks Marshall, your my hero. As mentioned earlier I like to get these in the 8x32 size and use the attractive screws that are sold for conchoes and Chicago nuts. Those points are long enough to protrude through 6/7oz leather to much so I shorten them with end nippers. Also remember the problem I ran into with the tee nut on that competition holster I made on here sometime back and do not get to close to a stitched edge. Right now I am up to my ears in some non leather projects but hope to get to the shop again soon.

JD Alan · January 14, 2010, 10:54:43 PM

Thanks for that Marshall. Now I recognize those as being used in some higher end guitar cabinets I've owned.

I went to Home Depot, the only place close tonight, and found some, but not any decent looking screws for the other side. The threads are not the same as Chicago screws. They were a coarse thread. Tomorrow I'll have an opportunity to check out a cabinet shop and the best Hardware store in the Northwest, Parkrose. If they don't have something, no one carries it.

In the mean time I set all the spots on the holster and the keeper strap. Using Standard Rivet's setters really makes spot setting easy. Whoever recommended their spot setters is right on. I bought two at 18 dollars a piece, and worth every penny if you plan on setting spots, which I do

I'm also gluing a test piece together with Chicago screws punched in to see how it goes. It's tough to keep the screws in the leather while applying glue. I think when I apply the glue for the real holster I'll do something like putting holes in the cardboard so the screws have somewhere to go rather than up and out of the leather.

Thanks for the help everyone, JD

Ten Wolves Fiveshooter · January 14, 2010, 11:10:24 PM

I've been looking for the T-NUTS in brass, for a while now, but all I have ever seen is stainless steel, guess I'll have to settle for them, I'd also like to get them in the 8/32 and be able to use the Chicago screws in different lengths, what's nice about the Chicago screws is you can get them in brass, black and nickel. I have one hardware store I haven't look at yet, hopefully they will have what I'm looking for.

Thanks for the information on these SHB and Will

tEN wOLVES

Marshal Will Wingam · January 15, 2010, 12:28:03 AM

Where are you finding the stainless ones, TW? All I can find around here are plated steel. If you find a source for brass, post that, too.

Slowhand Bob · January 15, 2010, 07:49:04 AM

Marshall, it is my understanding that if you have a marine supply store handy they carry them and that would be where I would look first for brass BUT extensive searching on the web has never turned up brass ones for me. (Perhaps a search specifically for 'brass tee nuts'.) I see them available on line for bulk purchases but who needs 3600000000000 Tee Nuts? I have never found a souce for smaller lots of say 50 to 100 at a discount but then, it doesnt look like I will ever even use that many. Jd, could you tell me what size you found at your local Home Depot as thats where I get mine and I think the number eight is available in two thread sizes 24tpi and 32tpi. The 32tpi is what I think fits the nice nickled screws.

Marshal Will Wingam · January 15, 2010, 08:54:47 AM

Thanks, Bob. I'll check West Marine or one of those.

Marshal Will Wingam · January 15, 2010, 09:00:02 AM

Yep. They have the stainless ones. Thanks.

West Marine - Tee Nuts

outrider · January 15, 2010, 09:21:02 AM

I have been using "tee" nuts two sizes 8/32 and 6/32..both available at Lowes...but much cheaper if you go to a local bolt distributor and get them by the 100 count. Another nice finishing touch is to use a nice round head phillips screw with a surface finishing washer.

Also, you can clip the pointed "ears" on the Tee nut so it does not penetrate so deeply into the leather...but will still grasp it