Hoarding For Shotgun-BP

Pitmaster · December 17, 2009, 07:55:17 AM

I've not started reloading for shotgun yet but plan to in the spring. I've read a little on shotgun reloading and have a couple of questions.

I've been collecting and saving the fulls I've been shooting but from what I've read shotgun loading data says that wads, hulls, shot, etc. is load specific as to brand and types.

I've decided that I want to start from scratch and start out buying everything new until I get some more experience. I'm looking for some suggestions on purchasing the various supplies I'll need such as primers, shot, hulls, and wads over the next few months. Which ones should I buy to load 12 ga. I have a case of Pinnacle FFFg all ready started.

Thanks

litl rooster · December 17, 2009, 08:11:22 AM

you might want to start here....http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php/topic,9733.0.html

Noz · December 17, 2009, 10:14:38 AM

<papcharlie2@copper.net> will sell you once fired or twice fired hulls for little money. The twice fired work quite well for CAS. I just got 1000 STS Green twice fired and they look good. I prefer the STS because of the ease of getting them out of the gun.
Contact Deacon Stone for shot. He has a shotmaker.

Sir Charles deMouton-Black · December 17, 2009, 10:48:27 AM

Pitmaster; Welcome to reloading.

Having a big bag of cases is OK. You Might find some use for them later. I usually put a specific load in a different case to make ID easier. Meanwhile sort them. The most desirable would be the older compression formed AAs, the new two piece hulls are a question mark. In my old TOZ66 Baikal any R-P case slips out with a moderate flip backwards with the gun. RTS have been mentioned and if any case is better than the AA this is it. I have found that CLUB shells are quite good as well. I wouldn't bother saving the ultra discount promo hulls from any company. They work fine, once or maybe 2 or 3 reloads, but are really not durable.

Components being load specific is a bit too strict. Before you start, get several reloading pamphlets from the powder companies. I've usually got them as handouts from my local gunshop. You will notice that they list data for many combinations of components. The rule should be; ONLY USE TESTED DATA, for the specific components. There is usually lots of choice in the manuals.

Loading blackpowder is a different game, as there are fewer sources for data, but also fewer pitfalls. Simply pick a fairly light shot load to start; e.g. 1 oz. (You can go higher for hunting loads after a bit of experience.) Then find a powder load of an equal VOLUME OR UP TO 30% LESS. More powder than shot is counter productive. More blast & pressure but no more MV and more blown patterns. Then select a wad column to permit a reasonable crimp. Plastic works, I often use a 1 1/4 oz. field wad with 1 oz. of shot and just under 60 Gr of GOEX FFg. You might have to vary a load slightly to get a proper closure. Older guns like fibre wad columns for better patterns with older forcing cones. I'll leave that for later, or let someone else contribute.

READ A LOT before you start. The link posted above is a GREAT start.

Wills Point Pete · December 18, 2009, 03:43:15 AM

If you have not already bought the Pinnacle, stop. Buy real black instead, it is much easier to work with. With genuine black powder there is no big problem with components, your only problem is to get a combo of powder, wads and shot for a decent crimp. The only way to blow yourself up is to smoke while messing with it or to check powder levels with a lit match.

The replica "black" powders are trickier. The only reason to use any of them is if you live where there are restrictions on having it.

Steel Horse Bailey · December 18, 2009, 06:36:19 AM

Quote from: Wills Point Pete on December 18, 2009, 03:43:15 AM
If you have not already bought the Pinnacle, stop. Buy real black instead, it is much easier to work with. With genuine black powder there is no big problem with components, your only problem is to get a combo of powder, wads and shot for a decent crimp. The only way to blow yourself up is to smoke while messing with it or to check powder levels with a lit match.

The replica "black" powders are trickier. The only reason to use any of them is if you live where there are restrictions on having it.

Wise words of advice!

And real Black (at least around here in my part of Indiana) costs about half of what the Pinnacle or other subs do. There's one other advantage ... you actually get FLAMES with real BP! (and perhaps Pyrodex, but not the citrus-based subs)

Pitmaster · December 18, 2009, 07:00:48 AM

I've all ready bought the Pinnacle. I went in on a couple of cases with others. Once this is gone I will get the real stuff. Maybe sooner if a few extra bucks comes my way.

The main reason I asked this question is that I want to begin to purchase the correct supplies from the get go. I will continue to save the hulls I use and sort them. Most of them are rounds I bought from Powder, INC.

I still need a press and am watching for a PW or MEC. I need to get together with someone who is loading so I can watch the process to increase my understanding.

There's a local gun shop I frequent and prices are reasonable. I always like to buy something every time I go in. I was thinking shot, primers, and some other things each time. I want to get a list.

Dick Dastardly · December 18, 2009, 08:26:01 AM

Howdy Pitmaster,

I'll add that I got shot from my local gun club. They did a shot reclaiming scrape and came up with more than 30 barrels of shot. I've found that it's not hard to clean up and it works well for SASS shooting. You will find that this stuff is selling for scrap prices.

Good luck

DD-DLoS

Jamie · December 18, 2009, 09:14:11 AM

While I realize the considerable increase in quality of the PW and any MEC press, and they can be found used at good prices, don't turn up your nose at a LEE load-all press. I had a 12 gauge and a 16 gauge conversion unit and loaded very happily and accurately for a number of years. Then a friend that was getting rid of their shotgun stuff GAVE me two more LEE's - another 12 and a 20 and two Mec's with conversions units. I can now load 10, 3" 12, 2 3/4" 12, 16 and 20 with Mec's and I still use my LEE's more due to my familiarity with them. I recently loaded 500 one ounce loads for the 12 gauge, and have no complaints. I've got to get used to the Mecs, but as I said, LEE's are often available at nearly (or ACTUALLY) give away prices, and while you can still shop for the Mec or PW you have something to work with. On top of which they come with all the bushings, etc. Just a thought as you're getting started.
Jamie

Steel Horse Bailey · December 18, 2009, 07:32:59 PM

Pitmaster, I don't even use a press. All my hulls SO FAR have been the all-brass type, but I have collected some paper hulls, too.

This can be problematic when it comes to re-priming but I have a Bonanza Coax single-stage loader in addition to my Dillon RL 550B. I modified the priming fixture on the Coax press; the rest is easy to do by hand.

reloader4410 · December 19, 2009, 07:01:28 PM

RCBS makes a 12 ga shell holder. I use it & a lee ram prime for priming brass hulls.

Montana Slim · December 19, 2009, 10:14:51 PM

Other than basic mechanics of shotshell loading, what you learn about using Pinnacle won't apply when you do switch to black.

Regards,
Slim

ol' poke · December 22, 2009, 01:39:13 PM

Another option would be the brass shotshell reloading kit sold by Rocky Mountain Cartridge (RMC). There is a link to it here: http://www.rockymountaincartridge.com/page10.html
I first bought their hulls and have never retired one yet. Pricey hulls? - you bet, but darn near indestructible. The loading kit comes with a brass mandrell to re-size them, but I haven't had to use it yet. It does get some getting used to hammering the shells over the 290 primers, though!

ol' poke