Leather thinning

Started by Devil Anse Hatfield, September 16, 2009, 09:22:09 PM

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Devil Anse Hatfield

Here is a my solution to a problem . I  bought a saddle grade side because price was right.
But that weight leather makes it to thick for some things.
I have solved the problem by using my electric hand plane.
Works very slick makes for a smooth clean back side.  It will leave a little ratted edge on the end  of the pass.
Other than that its that cats  :o for makin er thinner .

Devil

Ten Wolves Fiveshooter



  Neat idea Devil Anse Hatfield, let us see how it came out when you have a chance.


                                      Regards

                                  tEN wOLVES  ;) :D ;D
NRA, SASS# 69595, NCOWS#3123 Leather Shop, RATTS# 369, SCORRS, BROW, ROWSS #40   Shoot Straight, Have Fun, That's What It's All About

Slowhand Bob

What a neat idea and I will add an untried thought to it also?????  At one time or another I saw a very old machine that was described as a 'thickness sander' for leather!  This got me thinking that the thickness sanders used on wood might work BUT it seems their feed belts are probably to coarse and would damage the leather grain but a hand held belt sander might work almost as well.  Lots of the guys on hear are using the small bench mounted belt sanders for dressing projects already.

Devil Anse Hatfield

I will add that I used a small angle grinder on a holster I made this week.
It has  a sanding disk on it. I used it to finish off edges and add a taper to the top as i rolled the cylinder edge out when I shaped it.
I was pleased with outcome of sanding. Sure do miss my line machine nowdays.
I used the Hand planer on the whole  holster because it was too thick.
I plan to use it today on a strip for some boolit loops.

Back in the early 90s when I was rodeoing my partner and I had a complete saddle and boot shop. Rodeo took way more time and at that point made more money. So the shop was let go and I got out of it.  19 years later Im back at doing some leather work again.

Devil

Dalton Masterson

I also use an air die grinder for doing my edges. I have a selection of sanding drums I chuck into it, and it makes the edges very even. I use it before I do any stamping or carving, to get the shape exactly how I want it on the front.
Then after the stamping is done, and its glued together, I go over it again, to true up the back side.
Then I put a stitch groove on the back, and aim my needle into it. Works great, and keeps my stitches looking good too.
There has been a time or two I have used a sanding disc to thin out an area. It works good, and seems to be easier to feather out than using a skiver.
DM
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JD Alan

My local Tandy has some really nice Russett saddle skirt sides for sale for a great price. They are real big and great condition, but 13 oz, too thick to be practical for most applications. I have a hand held belt sander, and I'm wondering it that would work as well as the electric plane you're talking about? I'm not sure that I have ever seen an electric plane, so I'm not sure how they work. What to do think?
The man with an experience is never at the mercy of a man with an argument.

Devil Anse Hatfield

The electric hand plane I have came from Harbor freight . Bought it for a remodel project honey do.
I think it was like 40 bucks. it will only plane about 3 inch wide strip.The front table screws up and down for thickness adjustment.
Warning it will suck the end of a strap up.
Belt sander should work as I have used it on some ragged finished back sides. I would cut it out and the sand the project out vs whole side.
Having a hold down clamp will help. I dont think it would work very well with any latigo or harness leather that is pre oiled/greased stuffed.

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