New holster (in progress)

Slowhand Bob · September 04, 2009, 01:01:28 PM

Here is a front and rear view of a new competition style cross-draw after the first few steps have been completed. The holster will be tan with with a black liner and the actual pattern shows up in a couple of places if you look carefully. The hardware is in place and as soon as the glue has set well I will cut to finished size. More later.

JD Alan · September 04, 2009, 02:01:46 PM

I'm looking forward to seeing the finished holster Bob. What size and model are you making it for? People sharper than me can probably figured it out, but I'm kinda slow!

Slowhand Bob · September 04, 2009, 03:32:36 PM

Hi JD, this will be a 20* cant for Colt size guns with up to 5 1/2" barrel length. I am using 6/7oz for the holster and 2/3oz for the liner and you should be able to get a good feel for that 2 1/2" belt snugger (use 8/9oz here) with it laying open.

In the picture shown here, I have cut the pattern to final fit, finished and sewn all edges except main seam and am now ready for folding and doing the main seam. Now might be a good time to mention that the one attachment currently holding that belt guide is a rivet, blind on the liner side, and the other two fittings are tee nuts, also blind on the liner side within the holster pouch. I cut the tee nut barbs to about half height with end nippers so they can be contained within the first layer of leather but still prevent the nut from rotating as Chicago screws so often do.

There are at least two critical pattern errors that I missed until it was to late and also a sewing error that shows here. First pattern error is the tee nut spaced to close to the toe which prevented me from properly stitching this area (about two stitches are missing here). The pattern was laid out with the safety strap holes spaced to close together, which causes for a very hard manipulation. On the bottom stitching I started to close to the edges by about one stitch length and this will make fitting and dressing the bottom corners very critical. The biggy is the bottom tee nut which, without the stitch support, will likely pop the liner loose there, possibly when I actually install the screw or more surely later.

Since this is being made for myself, as a companion to the pair I posted on here a few months back, I can live with the errors. I just do not think that leaving the cross draw style is in the cards for an old goat like me, I'm just to set in my ways.

Ace Lungger · September 04, 2009, 04:11:21 PM

Howdy Bob,

Man I think it looks AWESOME!! Since it is for you, couldn't you make a few stitches in a light color just below on the seam edge and get by??
I think it looks great!!
Later ACE

JD Alan · September 04, 2009, 04:14:51 PM

It looks good to me Bob. Just before the stroke I switched over to a two sided rig, and tried to leave the cross draw. I used it one time at a match, plus practice before hand, then the stroke came along, and I've not been able to go back to two strong sides since.

I think the muscle memory of the cross draw is affecting me. I'm still practicing some with the stong side rig, but I 've not felt comfortable with it yet, so in the half dozen matches I've shot since the stroke I'ver stuck with the crossdraw.

I'm just grateful I can still shoot at all! I'm still having some trouble holding the shotgun to my shoulder one armed while reloading, but it's getting better month by month. I'ts only been five months, so I'd best not complain.

Thanks for sharing the pictures and the explaination Bob, JD

Slowhand Bob · September 04, 2009, 07:06:45 PM

I was actually thinking about finishing this tonight but lost interest so it may be a day or three or four. One of my problems is memory, if I wait to long I will forget to make pattern corrections and have to go through the process again! JD, I know you are not complaining pard and we both know that it is by the grace of God that makes all things possible for us. I have several projects in mind for posting here and hope to remember a couple of promised ones.

Actually I was getting sloppy by the time this came up Ace or I would have caught the problem. It was apparent to me that I had goofed up before starting to sew but I still took the shortcut. A small drill bit in the Dremel would get about two tiny holes through the thin metal plate and a few hand stitches would fix it right.

The tee nuts are also available in a version that has two small holes rather than the spikes and these are actually better for leather work. The Chicago screw is a more attractive attachment for applications that must show but when possible invisibility is the best solution of all. My biggest problem at the moment is finding a source for small lot bulk purchases of the tee nuts. Seems you either get three or 50,000 and not much middle ground!

WaddWatsonEllis · September 05, 2009, 12:25:07 AM

West Marine, kinda like the Sears of boating, has stainless or aluminum T Nuts; I have bought then there .... but can't find them on their website.

They also have Barrel Nuts, which might work ... here is the webpage:

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SiteSearchView?catalogId=10001&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&keyword=Barrel+Nuts&Ntt=Barrel+Nuts&N=377+710&storeId=10001&Ntk=Primary+Search&ddkey=SiteSearch

Slowhand Bob · September 05, 2009, 08:00:54 AM

Wadd, thanks for the heads up. I actually go in frequently for some book or chart or etc to go with our yakking but, I never thought about browsing their hardware. Frequently, finding the right item in small packs is just a small part of the quest if one would like to buy in lots of a hundred or so. I have scanned the leather catalogs and sites available to me and found no one, so far, the markets tee nuts to leather workers. Is there not a beneficial use in saddle making for them? They are not only great for the use displayed here but they make really great tension devises for modern competition/concealment holsters.

JD Alan · September 05, 2009, 08:21:10 AM

Hey Bob, could you explain what you mean By "Tension Devices" For modern holsters? I've seen references to them, but I don't know what it means, or how it would work. I don't know what would be under tension, or where on the holster it would be used.

Just trying to expand my knowledge of holsters. Thanks, JD

Ned Buckshot · September 05, 2009, 08:59:35 AM

Howdy JD, I'll try and explain that one for you.

A tension device as applied to holsters is generally a barrel nut and a screw going from front to back to adjust the opening size for the gun to slide in and out of, with that you can get the exact "grip" on the holster you want for ease of drawing while still providing rentention.

Usually placed somewhere around the trigger guard on the upper 1/3 of the holster, If I remember correctly Safariland was one of the first if not first to use such a device.

Hope this helps

Ned

Now off to work on someones knife that is going to be TOO cool.

Ned

WaddWatsonEllis · September 05, 2009, 09:07:46 AM

Slowhand,

I worked for them at one time, and West Marine will offer individual and small number bags of an item for sale. The price may be high, but the number that you need to get is right on the money ....

Slowhand Bob · September 05, 2009, 01:36:53 PM

Ned has it right on the tension devices and I might include that on my home brewed concoction, I used a vinyl tubing inside that protected the guns finish as well as offering a spring open affect. Speaking of the old Safariland brand, back in the 70s I also mimicked their their sight track line with a layered leather version.

Fearing that I would truly forget the necessary pattern changes needed I went out to the shop and finished things up. These two pictures show the front of the completed holster (except for safety thong) and a quicky unlined version (with safety thong). Notice the little dip in the stitching at the bottom, due to the stitching layout error.

Slowhand Bob · September 05, 2009, 01:47:23 PM

Here are two additional views, seam side and back. The side view shows the really large tapered tunnel which provides an extreme amount of turn out for the revolvers grip (a really gamey thing). Also note the fact that there was not enough room to really bring that edge to an invisible finish (the earlier stitch layout problem). On the back it is hard to tell from the picture but those inletted screw heads offer a nice touch. If anyone is interested in trying this item I will scan and post the pattern.

Marshal Will Wingam · September 05, 2009, 03:19:45 PM

That's a fine holster, pard. I like the way you assembled it with the screws. It looks great. Thanks for sharing.

cowboywc · September 05, 2009, 03:27:14 PM

Howdy Bob
That's a good lookin holster. Very clean.
WC

Ten Wolves Fiveshooter · September 05, 2009, 04:49:16 PM

Nice work Bob, I use a similar leather stop on some of my holsters, where I don't want the holster to ride up.

tEN wOLVES

JD Alan · September 05, 2009, 05:26:51 PM

Scan and post Bob, scan and post

Thanks from the perpetual pest, JD.

Slowhand Bob · September 05, 2009, 05:38:05 PM

Thanks guys. JD, a friend is never a pest and I will try to get it on as soon as I research how I done the last one to get a true size print out. The pattern is actually ready for print now.

Ace Lungger · September 05, 2009, 08:05:57 PM

Howdy SB,

That is one AWESOME crossdraw holster! It realy look nice!
thanks for sharing!
ACE

Slowhand Bob · September 05, 2009, 09:54:13 PM

I am going to resurrect the post from the original patterns I posted here some months back (see post named "Patterns"). Remember, though this cross draw was made to go with the earlier set, it is a totally different pattern, using lighter weight leathers but all construction details are pretty much the same. I do have another set of patterns for a lighter weight competition rig that this x-draw evolved from, thats another project for another time! The measurement line is exact to allow scaling of image until I can do better (any reproduction help would be appreciated). If you need explanations, please ask and I will try to help in any way I can. Let us know if you make one and post some pictures. These should now print out to exact size.