Uberti 1860 problem

[TMMonroe]

Hello all.

I own a Uberti 1860 Army and it's a great pistol except for one small thing. Everytime I load it and fire it, from two to three caps fail to fire. When I work my way around the cylinder, these fire. Now is this a problem with the brand of caps I am using, CCI, or is it that the hammer is weak, or what?

I surely would appreciate any advice i recieve that would enhance my enjoyment of this fine weapon.

[Flint]

The problem is most likely the caps.  CCI caps are a bit smaller than Remingtons.  The tendency is to not seat fully on the nipple, and the misfire strike from the hammer seats the cap, and the next strike will fire it.

The cap size from smallest to largest is CCI #10, Remington #10, CCI #11, Remington #11.  Remington caps also seem to be more reliable in general.  Many shooters complaint seems to be the relative unavailabilkity if Remingtons, as many gunshops don't stock them.

Using either brand of cap, be sure to seat the cap with a wooden or antler push stick after placing them on the nipple.  Do not use the hammer to seat them, or your thumb.

Treso or Ampco nipples are more consistant in size and shape than the Italian factory made nipples.

[TMMonroe]

Thank you for the response. It's a relief to think that I don't have something wrong with my baby! I'll be sure to order some Remington caps and see if they don't work better.

The nipples I use are after market and not Italian made...I figured since the weapon was used prior to my buying it that I would just change out the nipples to begin with. I wish I could remember the make or where i bought them but I can't.

[Major 2]

I prefer RWS Green label  # 11's  on my second Gen's  ( they are a tad longer than the Red Label which worked better on my Ubertis.)
CCI's have failed me as you state because they did not fit the nipple all the way down , sometimes the hammer just seated them and they fired the second time ( annoying )
If you want to use #10's ... I suggest Tresco Nipples.

Unless you or someone (smith) has lightend the Main spring,  I think a simple Cap manufacture change will do you
or a Nipple change to Tresco's .

you guy's answered while  I was typing 

[TMMonroe]

Thank you Major2, I will certainly heed your kind advice.

[Mako]

Hello all.

I own a Uberti 1860 Army and it's a great pistol except for one small thing. Everytime I load it and fire it, from two to three caps fail to fire. When I work my way around the cylinder, these fire. Now is this a problem with the brand of caps I am using, CCI, or is it that the hammer is weak, or what?

I surely would appreciate any advice i recieve that would enhance my enjoyment of this fine weapon.

TM,
Flint has a lot of experience with '60, but I believe he prefers Piettas.  I have a lot of Ubertis and I can tell you the hammer Springs are way too light.  I have seen after market light hammer springs that aren't any lighter.  I wish there was a quick trick to making them heavier like the trick of placing a leather washer under them to make them lighter.

You can call VTI and ask (usually one of the girls, who know more than most men) if they have any of the old Uberti '60 springs left.  I'm not sure where they got them but they are marginally a bit heavier.  I have been putting USFA (made for their SAAs) springs in mine.  They are just a skosh too long and you can file or grind them to match the length of your Uberti spring (off of the hammer end).

Then as Flint and Major said Treso tubes.  The #11 Remington fits them the best (RWS reds are the analog for the Rem 11)  I have problems with CCI.  I should say had to be fair.  I can get Remingtons so I shoot them.  If they dried up I would find a way to make anything work.  As major said they run tight and they measure a bit thicker in the metal on the cup.

Gotta' be fully seated or the hammer blow will be absorbed by the cap being pressed fully down.

I'll talk Remingtons for one minute.  #10s and #11s are the same diameter inside and out.  #10s are longer.  the cone of the tubes are tapered, the longer cap (#10) will stop short of seating on a larger diameter cone. The taper finally engages the inside of the cap diameter.  #11s will go on further because the end of the cap skirt is higher and engages further up the cone where the taper diameter is smaller.  So if a #11 fits snug, USE IT.  If a #11 is loose try a #10.  If a #10 is loose, pinch it.

We are here to help, ask if you have anymore questions.

Regards,
Mako

P.S. Tresos usually fit #11s better, you can use #10s, but you have to use a push stick to seat them HARD!  I use #10s when I can't get #11s.

[TMMonroe]

Thank you for the info Mako. I'm going to locate some Remington caps and if that doesn't work...my God, but I hope they work...I'll look into fabricating a new hammer spring.

I'm loving the info!

[Flint]

Mako, actually I prefer Uberti in the Colt type, but I agree that Uberti's later production has a much lighter mainspring than the older ones.  I wish Uberti would make the arbor length correct as Pietta does, it would make setting the wedge easier and stop the clamping of the cylinder problem.

Pietta's Remington mainsprings come from an Army truck, however.

[Mako]

Mako, actually I prefer Uberti in the Colt type, but I agree that Uberti's later production has a much lighter mainspring than the older ones.  I wish Uberti would make the arbor length correct as Pietta does, it would make setting the wedge easier and stop the clamping of the cylinder problem.

Pietta's Remington mainsprings come from an Army truck, however.

Flint,
I apologize!  I'm not sure how I mixed that up, maybe from Noz's and Pettifogger's preferences.  I agree with you on the Ubertis, if they had the correct Arbor length I would be relatively satisfied for the money.  Piettas just don't feel right in my hand the grip seems a bit off.  Ubertis feel m ore like my original Colts.

Regards,
Mako

P.S. You get your modeling preferences set to where you want them yet?  If not send me a message.

[Pettifogger]

New Uberti springs are frequently to light.  They are pretty good steel, so I just chop the bottom of one and then tune the length until the tension is right.  (Also, if no one has mentioned it, you need a cap seater.  When a cap doesn't fire the first time and fires the second time that means it wasn't fully seated.)

[Mako]

Good pic and a good idea, I had wondered if anyone had tried that.  Does it change the feel of the hammer stroke significantly?

Thanks for the great photo,
Mako

[Pettifogger]

Nope.  You can tune it so it is a little heavier, but a lot "whippyier" and still gives a smooth, steady pull.

[Mako]

Thanks Pettifogger,
I'll have to try it now and compare it to my USFA springs.  I still wish they had more ooomph.

Read your newest installment today in the Chronicle.  Excellent piece, I hope it gets fully reproduced electronically someday so we can pass it on to future generations.

~Mako

[TMMonroe]

Excellent information from all. Thank you very, very much! I feel much more confident about my piece now that I know what the problem may be and how to address it.