Sticly mould

Two Rivers Marshal · July 05, 2009, 01:22:56 AM

Finally got to do my first casting session. Have a Lyman 250gr RN .45 cal two cavity mould.

Had one problem... as I have read, the bullets were wrinkled until the mould got up to temperature. While this was happening, both would drop right out of the mould. Once it warmed up and the bullets looked just like the store-bought ones, one would stick about 75% of the time. A couple raps with a rubber mallet on the hinge of the handles would jar it loose. Some would need a bit of prying with the fingers ( gloved fingers)

Any idea what would cause this? Looking at the bullets, I don't see anything on the bullet that would show where a burr or something else was catching on it to hold it in.

The mould was cleaned prior to use. I didnt "smoke" it from what I've read, its 50-50 whether folks do it or not. It is a steel mould. Any thoughts would be appreciated

One more question. Are wheel weights too soft for cast bullets? Didn't have any solder lying around but we did melt down some other cast bullets that were of a caliber we don't use any more a while back. Used 18 lbs of ww and 2 lbs of the cast bullet lead to "harden" it some. Not sure if it is needed for cas velocities.

Thanks folks,
TRM

Cuts Crooked · July 05, 2009, 06:54:11 AM

Quote from: Two Rivers Marshal on July 05, 2009, 01:22:56 AM

The mould was cleaned prior to use. I didnt "smoke" it from what I've read, its 50-50 whether folks do it or not. It is a steel mould. Any thoughts would be appreciated

One more question. Are wheel weights too soft for cast bullets?
Thanks folks,
TRM

1. Uh...try smoking it! Ya got nuthin to lose there and it might/could be all ya need ta cure the problem. However, some molds, with 90 degree angles that create the grooves, are jist plain stubborn. This is one of the nice things about the Big Lube designs, the 30 degree angle to the groove walls lets them drop really easy.

2. No, wheel weights are jist fine fer cast bullets at CAS velocities.

Dick Dastardly · July 05, 2009, 07:45:26 AM

The cleaning procedure is very important. Usually this is where the sticking and wrinkled problems begin. I prefer a good cleaner disolved in very hot water and a good toothbrush to clean my molds. Then, a very hot water rinse.

For smoke, use a good hardwood splint. Candles and softwoods tend to leave an oily residue. Avoid the spray on mold releases for the cavities. Use Bull Plate on the underside of the sprue plate and the top of the mold blocks. Apply it right after cutting the sprue and the bullets still in the cavities. You don't want to get ANY Bull Plate in the cavities.

Run your lead/alloy around 750° F. I've found that pre-heating my molds on a hot plate really gets them up and running pronto.

Good luck,

DD-DLoS

Two Rivers Marshal · July 06, 2009, 09:27:57 PM

Thanks for the reply's folks. Will try scrubbing it some more before round 2 and smoking it a bit as well. Was having a pretty good time, even with the sticking problems, still managed to cast about 100 per hour.

Will have to look into one of DD's 6 cavity outfits before long.

Dick Dastardly · July 08, 2009, 08:07:49 PM

I'm a very relaxed bullet caster. When I'm casting with a Six cavity mold I find that it takes me between 12 and 15 seconds per pour. At 17 pours per hundred with a few to throw back, I'm casting about 1440 bullets per hour. Since I like to take a break and a sip now and then I'll round that down to 1000 bullets per hour. . .

Yup, they pile up.

DD-DLoS

Appalachian Ed · July 09, 2009, 03:17:56 PM

Smoking the mould always helps. I use Rapine mold prep with good results as well.

Panhandle Slim · July 10, 2009, 01:52:28 PM

I use the Frankford Arsenal mold cleaner before any casting session. Cleans it up pretty good with no residue. Once its dry, I spray a some Frankford Arsenal mold release and let it dry. Once the mold is up to temp and is spitting out good castings, a touch up spritz with the mold release every 50 bullets or so keep them dropping right out. Now, I'm not a shill for Frankford Arsenal, but that's what's been working for me lately.

Dick Dastardly · July 10, 2009, 05:32:26 PM

Many of my customer complaints about undersize boolits have been traced to Frankford mold release. The stuff builds up and soon enough, undersize bullets happen.

I don't recommend mold release for the cavities, but it's great for the backside of sprue cutter plates and the tops of mold blocks. Apply it with the last pour of bullets in place to keep it out of the cavities.

For a superior result mold lube I recommend Bull Plate. Put it on the underside of the sprue plate and wipe it back. Do the same with the top of the mold blocks with the last pour of bullets left in place. Absolutely keep it out of the cavities.

Most spray on release agents are dimensionally thick. They do work, but they also reduce the mold cavity size. A couple of Thousandths can make a correct size mold drop undersize bullets. Your guns and lube/sizer will give you the information you need. FWIW, this could be a temporary cure for an oversize mold. . .

DD-DLoS

Two Rivers Marshal · July 10, 2009, 07:27:29 PM

Here is one more question. I have measured some of the bullets we made and they have a dia of .451" Looking at the box of the last store-bought ones they were .452" I have not slugged any of my guns. Using the 452 I have never had any problems of lead in the barrel. I don't have a lube/sizer currently.

If i was to run em through, would it squash it into .452"? Never seen one other than pictures on the web so I dont fully know how they operate.

Any problems just shootin the 451's? after lubing of course, had planned on pan lubing them. Is the .001 difference enough to worry about? I know if ya get too small then you can create problems.

Thoughts?

TRM

Flint · July 10, 2009, 10:43:48 PM

Two Rivers, as DD said, mold release can change the size, as can alloy mix and temperature. The alloy mix will also cjhange the weight of the bullet. I used to use wheel weights with a bit of 50-50 solder mixed in. Casting 200 gr SWC for the 45ACP for 20 yrs or so, I never had many problems, the bullets were always large enough to swage a bit in a 452 Starr size lube die.

Springfield Slim · July 12, 2009, 01:14:46 AM

Using a sizer will not make a bullet bigger, it will just push on through.

Two Rivers Marshal · July 12, 2009, 10:50:00 PM

Kinda thought so, but wasn't sure.

Mixed up my first batch of lube and pan lubed a couple hundred last night, will have to get em loaded up and see how it goes.

Noz · July 13, 2009, 08:35:48 AM

DD, My only attempt at Frankford mold release gave me oversized bullets. I got enough on the mold blocks outside of the cavity that it held the blocks open. I know I didn't use it properly but it bothered me enough that I looked for other ways. Smoke after a good lacquer thinner cleaning works very well and I too am a fan of bull plate.

Panhandle Slim · July 14, 2009, 11:06:53 AM

The FA mold release causing undersized bullets isn't really a problem for me right now. I'm not molding bullets for CAS at this time. I'm primarily molding for NSSA - the RCBS Hogdon Minnie. In fact, if a few end up undersized a little extra, it's not such a bad thing. After 8 or 9 shots the GOEX starts to foul up a bit, and having an undersized bullet means I don't have to stand on the ramrod to get the bullet stuffed down the tube.

I'll keep that in mind though when I start casting 44-40 and 45 LC's.