38 special vs 357mag vs 45LC

[lukewepy]

Trying to get a handle on what caliber to buy for a Cimarron Model P. I know 45LC is historically correct but I have a feeling that it is the most expensive of the three. What kind of price differences am I looking at between 38 special and 357 mag. I don't reload so that will not come into play. Just talking strictly over the counter.

[Angel_Eyes]

Easiest way, go to your local ammo supplier and ask about prices, but if you are intending staying in the game, think about reloading!

AE

[Fairshake]

Without reloading as a option you will have two things that will be a factor. One is that you must have deep pockets. The other is that you intend to do very little shooting.

[Jefro]

You're gonna save alota money shooting the 38. Some 357 ammo may be to hot for our max fps. The 45 can be used at a reduced cost by reloading, and using AJ's Cowboy 45 Special brass. Good Luck, and Welcome.
http://www.cowboy45special.com/

Jefro

[lukewepy]

So reloading is the way to go then. What exactly is involved? I know there are machines to be had but what else is needed as far as supplies are concerned?

[Fiddler Green]

So reloading is the way to go then. What exactly is involved? I know there are machines to be had but what else is needed as far as supplies are concerned?

Pretty much everyone sells starter kits. I've seen the RCBS and Lee one's and they have just aobut everything you'd want. It's not really that complicatied to do. If you plan to reload standard rifle cartridges, in the future, I would recommend the RCBS kit with the "Rock Chucker" press. Otherwise, almost any of them are good for .38.

Here is the link to the RCBS site with the kit I talked about and instructions on how to get started.

http://www.rcbs.com/guide/default.aspx

Bruce

[Curley Cole]

I reload all 3 rounds, and the 38/357 cost basicly the same. 45lc is just under $1 per 50rds more. (mostly due to heavier bullet)

I strongly suggest you get "Modern Reloading" by Dr Richard Lee, and pretty much read it from cover to cover. It will tell you how to reload, using the various styles of loader from hand to progressive, with pictures and telling you WHY you are doing what you are doing. It also will serve as your first loading manual also.

Best bet as far as I am concerned is to get either a good single stage or a turret press and learn the loading from the start. If a progressive loader fouls up and you don't know anything about the loading process, how are you to know what is wrong?

If I can be of any help just holler

good shootin
curley

[Jefro]

I strongly suggest you get "Modern Reloading" by Dr Richard Lee, and pretty much read it from cover to cover. It will tell you how to reload, using the various styles of loader from hand to progressive, with pictures and telling you WHY you are doing what you are doing. It also will serve as your first loading manual also.

Best bet as far as I am concerned is to get either a good single stage or a turret press and learn the loading from the start.
curley

+ 1, Richard Lee's "Modern Reloading" is a great starting point, also Lymans 49th Metalic Reloading. The Lee Classic Turret Press Kit is an inexpensive great little press to start with, it can be used as a single stage or turret. I still use mine to work up different loads. Kempf's sells the complete kit as well as a tumbler kit to clean the brass.. The Lee Pro Auto-Disk Powder Measure and Large/Small prime system is a must upgrade to the Classic kit, $22 at bottom of page. Good Luck.
Kempf Gun Shop
Richard lee/Lyman
Lee Classic Turret Press Kit
Tumbler

Jefro

[Infernal Combustion]

I also like "The ABCs of Reloading".  Good overall introduction to reloading and can help you decide if reloading is where you want to go.   That said, if you plan on shooting cowboy games for any length of time, reloading can save you a lot of money, no matter which caliber you choose.  Reloading is the only way I can afford to play the game.

+1 on the Lee Turret press.  It sets a nice balance between ease of reloading (and productivity) and keeping it simple so you learn how to reload, not just pull a lever.  I'm using the Classic Turret kit and you get almost everything in the kit that you need except for a set of calipers to measure your "boolits".  Yes, you want the Auto-Disk Powder Measure and the Priming system.  Mine came with the kit.  You will also need to buy dies for which ever caliber you choose.  Although you can load dirty brass, having the tumbler and media (I use treated corn cob) gives you nice shiny brass yo can be proud of.   All told, I spend about $300 on all my initial loading equipment - including initial supplies.  (It's probably a bit more expensive now  )  Now that I've been reloading for a while, I am thinking of upgrading to one of those super-duper-make-a bazillion-rounds-in-an-hour progressive reloaders, but I'll always have a use for my slow Lee Turret press.

Regardless of whether you are reloading or not, .38 will be the cheapest.  From a reloading standpoint, the lead is cheaper and I use less powder for my .38s than I use for my .45s.  What ever you decide, have fun!

[Camille Eonich]

How much do you plan to shoot Luke?

[Angel_Eyes]

If you are really that new to this job, please don't forget that you can shoot .38sp in a .357cal pistol and similarly you can download to .38sp type loads in your .357mag cases (or shells, as you colonials call them)
Best way to go, is to find one of your shooting buddies who is a competent and experienced reloader and ASK!!
Dont be afraid to ask, anyone worth his salt will be willing to help guide you in the right direction.

As a friend of mine keeps saying,"They don't ask, and if they do ask, they just don't listen!"

Mind you, he is a grumpy old so-and-so!

AE (who has helped an awful lot of newbies spend an awful lot of money)

[lukewepy]

To Camille: I plan on shooting as often as my lady will let me. My soon-to be father in law has a 65 acre spread out in the wilderness of NJ where we live and I expect to be able to shoot down there whenever I get the urge. As far as Cowboy meets, not sure as the closest club to me is The Jackson Hole Gang in Jackson which is about an hour away.

To Angel Eyes: I was completely unaware that you can shoot 38 spcl in a .357 pistol. That might change things a little. That means that you can use one gun to shoot two different calibers? How does that work? Was always told that you shoot whatever is stamped on the barrel! Please fill me in.

[Angel_Eyes]

This only applies to certain calibres, for instance:-

.38spl can be shot through a .357mag. cylinder BUT NOT VICE VERSA as the .357 cartridge case is 1/10" longer than the .38 but they are the same calibre.
Consequently the .38spl will chamber in the 357 but not the other way round.
So if you are going to choose between these two, then it makes sense to have the .357designated calibre as it will shoot both.
As I said previously, use your local gunshop, who can show you examples rather than trying to learn from a distance.
Personally, when we Brits were able to own handguns of this description, I tried very hard to obtain one (or two) of every calibre.
Then all you had to do was just shoot the ones you preferred 

AE

[Shotgun Franklin]

Ask around your local gun shop and find a reloader. Have him give you a few lessons. **Caution** if he uses loads other than those listed in the reloading guides/books find another reloader and start over. Other than that one caution you're much better off getting some hands on training. It ain't rocket science but takes reasonable acre. It is much easier than learning to drive or use a computer.

[Professor Honeyfuggler]

Consequently the .38spl will chamber in the 357 but not the other way round.

I'd add one caveat to that... you can shoot .38 Special in a .357 gun (I do all the time) but if you do not clean the chambers well on a regular basis, enough lead will build up on the ridges which stop the .357 case that you will no longer be able to chamber a .357 round.

I generally shoot a couple of matches or practice rounds with .38 Specials with just a boresnake and Hoppe's cleaning required afterwards, but I always check to see if a .357 round will still chamber when I'm through. As soon as it won't, I get out some paste lead remover my gunsmith recommended and a nylon bristle brush and work on it some more until the .357 cartridge will freely drop in and drop out again.

[Dr. Bob]

Be sure to check the powder level in EVERY case before you seat the bullet!  No powder will likely stick the bullet in the barrel - not a good thing.  A double load of smokeless powder might cause extreme destruction of your revolver.  If you use black, the powder should be about 1/8 inch from the rim.  Easy one to verify. 

[Camille Eonich]

The reason that I asked about how much you plan to shoot is because the more that you intend to shoot the less time that you will want to spend reloading.  If you are just going to shoot a little then you can pick up a Lee Turret press for little of nothing.  You can turn out ammo pretty quick with one you just have to be careful and really pay attention to what you are doing when you reload.


If you plan to shoot a lot then you might want to check into something a little quicker and some bells and whistles to go a long with it to double check what you do.  Of course there is going to be a bit more investment in a progressive press and you will have to shoot more to get your investment back.

With two of us shooting when we were shooting every weekend, the turret presses just required too much time at the reloading bench so we invested in a Dillon 650 with all the bells and whistles.  I can make enough ammo for a match for 2 people in less than an hour and that includes loading the primer tubes, sorting the cleaned brass and everything.

[Professor Honeyfuggler]

FWIW - One of the writers in the new issue of Cowboy Chronicles (News Flash - the new issue is out) opines that the current split in SASS shooters is about 2/3 shooting .38 and 1/3 shooting .45.