Disassembly Instructions for an 1858 Pietta Remington Revolver

[Bull Schmitt]

Disassembly Instructions for an 1858 Pietta Remington Revolver

http://www.scorrs.org/articles/1858disassembly.htm

Other Remington Revolver Gunsmithing information:

http://www.scorrs.org/gunsmith.htm

[GunClick Rick]

Well i got it all apart ready to put it back together,any instuctions for that??

[Skinny Preacher 66418]

Well i got it all apart ready to put it back together,any instuctions for that??

Reassembly is impossible. You'll have to scrap it. I'll give you $25 for it if you'll mail it to Texas. 

[Wolfgang]

Reassembly is impossible. You'll have to scrap it. I'll give you $25 for it if you'll mail it to Texas. 

Rick . . I'll make ya a better offer.   You pay me $ 20 to take it and send it to me in Desperate Hot Springs.  . . . . that way yu'll save money as the postage is less than to Texas which is a furrin cuntry . . .  . . . sound like a good deal ? . . 

[GunClick Rick]

Money order on the way Rats,i forgot to put a stamp on it and they sent it back...Now i need a stock for that 12 incher..

[Daniel Nighteyes]

Those instructions work great ---- for a revolver with the full-length barrel.  I have a pair of stainless Piettas with 5.5-inch barrels, and the cylinder pins come to a full stop on the loading lever latch before they can be removed.

Any suggestions on how I can remove the cylinder pins without completely dismounting the lever latches?  The pins are a little rough, and I'd like to smooth them out to facilitate removing/replacing the cylinders.

[Montana Slim]

Daniel, Probably cannot remove the pins via "simple" means. If the retaning stud has a dovetail, you can knock it out and then remove the cylinder pin, otherwise the retaining stud is soldered in (like my DIY "bob" job).

I cut my full barrel to ~4" some years ago. I don't fret over removing the pin for cleaning. You should be able to round/polish the tip of the cylinder pin. This should greatly smooth/improve installation of the cylinder. Polishing the entire length is not necessary unless it is extremely rough.

Regards,
Slim

[Angel_Eyes]

No problem Daniel,,,just cut off the piece of barrel with the lever catch attached,,,simple!!

AE

Sorry,,,couldn't resist it!

[Daniel Nighteyes]

No problem Daniel,,,just cut off the piece of barrel with the lever catch attached,,,simple!!

AE

Sorry,,,couldn't resist it! :-

I kin always count on you, Angel Eyes...   

[Flint]

My 5-1/2 inch Uberti the lever catch (barrel stud) is just held in tight enough in the dovetail to stay in place, latched.  With the lever down, the barrel studs can be pushed out of the barrel with my fingers.  Sometimes the stud might prefer to move one direction more than the other, try pushing both directions to test it.  If you can't press it out sideways with your fingers, use a brass or wood dowel and a small mallet.  If they get too loose after some use and time, the dovetail can be tightened a bit with a few dimples punched at the edge of the barrel flat.

To disassemble, lower and remove the loading lever and press out the barrel stud, and the cylinder pin can be pulled out.

[Professor Marvel]

Ah My Dear Daniel-san
I am beside myself, here you are at odds with your Remmy pins, and I fail to notice your dilemma for well over 9 months.

So the answer to your problem is the hinged cylinder pin, as perfected by other members of this excellent place.

The most difficult part for cutting any Remmy shorter than 5.5" is the cylinder rod. Since the loading lever catch blocks the free movement of the cylinder pin, anything shorter that that means the pin is permanently captured unless the latch is removed. Anything shorter than 4- 4.5" means the pin will not be able to clear the cylinder. Amongst the solutions I have seen are leaving off the loading lever and catch (ideal for a barrel 3" or less) , building a hinged cylinder pin, or planning for a removable lever catch (not a good choice IMHO).

I offer a small selection of links showing the efforts of others in this endevour -

First go here and drool:
http://www.alliancelink.com/srrs/photos.htm

Read about the "Ultimate Remington":
http://www.alliancelink.com/srrs/articles/ultrem.htm

You can  Learn How to chop it yourself:
http://www.chipengelmann.com/Grips/Remmies.html
http://www.hobbygunsmith.com/Archives/Jun03/HowTo.htm
http://www.hobbygunsmith.com/Archives/Feb04/Feature.htm

here you can see how Halfway Creek Charlie (aka Gunslinger in CAS) cut an 8" bbl, .44 Remington 6shot conversion, with his special hinged cylinder pin that allows a barrel shorter than 5 1/2 "

www.thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=300356

hope this helps
yhs
prof marvel

[blainenay]

Disassembly Instructions for an 1858 Pietta Remington Revolver

http://www.scorrs.org/articles/1858disassembly.htm

Other Remington Revolver Gunsmithing information:

http://www.scorrs.org/gunsmith.htm

I followed the steps as described. When I got the gun back together, there was no spring tension on the hand to engage and rotate the cylinder. I took the gun apart again to inspect the hand and spring. They appear to be normal. Any idea why I'm not getting spring tension on the hand?

[Bishop Creek]

Hey, the directions worked!

[Wolfgang]

Comes appart prett good . . . does it go back to gether again ?   

[Octagonal Barrel]

Comes appart prett good . . . does it go back to gether again ?   

First time I took mine apart, I didn't need instructions.  It was enough like Colts that I figured it out on my own.

Back together again?  I did have to spend several hours on the internet looking for creative suggestions on re-installing the main spring...  (By the way, the mainspring that came stock with my ASP Remmie was much stronger than most Remmie mainsprings, which made it much worse.  I've since replaced it with a lighter Pietta mainspring, and I don't need to be nearly as creative as that first time.)